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Finished sanding back the bed liner and sprayed all the engine bay in two coats of high build primer, a little more sanding and one more coat it should be ready for colour

After a lot more sanding and primer I thought it was time for some colour so after running out of thinners and my gun packing up (which is now fixed) I managed to shoot a coat of colour onto the bay,

I have bought a clutchmasters fx750 clutch And I've got a 6spd o2m with a diff and 2wd blanking plate, already rewelded the mk3 vr subframe for the gearbox mount relocation and got a dutchbuild mount

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Is that off a volvo truck lol

Haha yes it is mate, it's a holset hx52 (about the same size as a gt42)

That is rather large, will be quite fast then........ :D

Fingers crossed it should be

Looks like it going to be a very nice setup once finished.

What type of figures are you hoping for?

I would like 500+ but to be honest I don't want to set a horsepower goal I will be happy as long as it drives nice and has good fuelling/boost etc to keep the engine safe.

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Sounds like a good plan to me buddy.

What gearbox and clutch setup you thinking of running dude?

I have bought a clutchmasters fx750 clutch

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And I've got a 6spd o2m with a diff and 2wd blanking plate, already rewelded the mk3 vr subframe for the gearbox mount relocation and got a dutchbuild mount for it

Edited by al_mooring
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Very nice indeed!

Thanks for the kind words

what ECU will you use?

I'm going to be running lugtronic it's from America and uses VEMS management but it's plug and play

Nice project! Quick question: i saw that you used a solid engine mount, if you use one of these, will it fit on a original front member?? I have a 1300 carburettor engine standard, oh and its LHD..

I couldn't tell you as this solid engine mount is purely for the vr6 engine so you can keep the mk2 cross member. If you didn't you would have to use a passat or corrado vr6 crossmember so it lines up

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I'm going to be running lugtronic it's from America and uses VEMS management but it's plug and play

It's bad, that it's p'n'p solution?

 

me and my friends also want to build a turbo VR6 and in our opinion standalone ECU (p'n'p or with a custom wiring) better, than piggyback - in fact we don't visit dealer for diagnosis and reapair :D

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It's bad, that it's p'n'p solution?

me and my friends also want to build a turbo VR6 and in our opinion standalone ECU (p'n'p or with a custom wiring) better, than piggyback - in fact we don't visit dealer for diagnosis and reapair :D

If you look on the lugtronic website you can see the kit they provide it just has a conversion cable that goes from the vr6 ecu plug to the vems ecu to save wiring.

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Today was productive but not chassis wise. I seem to of misplaced the steering rack clamps so I couldn't build up the subframe so I have bought some, which should be here Wednesday.

So I decided to jump in and start building my engine, I flex-honed the cylinders and then fitted the crank and got round to fitting three out of six piston/rods before I called it a day

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Edited by al_mooring
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I'm planning on doing this soon,

Rebuild spare subframe,

I've been thinking about seam welding the cup that hold the mounts on around the bottom.

And seam welding the edges of the wishbones aswell.

Might be bit over kill, as I only want about 300bhp maybe 350. But it's done then if I ever do want to go bigger power.

What else have you got planned for the subframe?

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I'm planning on doing this soon,

Rebuild spare subframe,

I've been thinking about seam welding the cup that hold the mounts on around the bottom.

And seam welding the edges of the wishbones aswell.

Might be bit over kill, as I only want about 300bhp maybe 350. But it's done then if I ever do want to go bigger power.

What else have you got planned for the subframe?

Well so far I have seam welded the subframe, relocated the gearbox cup for the o2m swap, had it powdercoated, polybushed everything, new ball joints, new manual rack and tie rods, stainless steel hardware, powdercoated kw anti roll bar and that's about it off the top off my head haha then I'm going to use the mk2vr6 solid front mount and hockey puck the rear engine mount. Use a g60 for the gearbox and then raise the engine using hockey pucks.

I would suggest welding it all up as it stiffens everything up

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Sounds like a brilliant set up!

Yeah I think I might fully seam weld the whole subframe then. :)

I just bought a soild alloy front mont for mk3, and hockey pucked it. I had pucks on my standard mounts for years, and on my GTi's before VR, so they work brilliant on the front mount. Not so great on gear box mount I found. Why I now have a vibratech one. Still need to get vibratech rear engine mount. Already have extra gearbox brace from Corrado, soild alloy gearbox relay, soild alloy gear box mounts that hold the shifter linkage.

Soild alloy camber adjustable front suspension mounts. Front end has been poly bushed, still need to do rear.

That about it atm, loads more coming soon hopefully :D

Edited by c00k
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Sounds like a brilliant set up!

Yeah I think I might fully seam weld the whole subframe then. :)

I just bought a soild alloy front mont for mk3, and hockey pucked it. I had pucks on my standard mounts for years, and on my GTi's before VR, so they work brilliant on the front mount. Not so great on gear box mount I found. Why I now have a vibratech one. Still need to get vibratech rear engine mount. Already have extra gearbox brace from Corrado, soild alloy gearbox relay, soild alloy gear box mounts that hold the shifter linkage.

Soild alloy camber adjustable front suspension mounts. Front end has been poly bushed, still need to do rear.

That about it atm, loads more coming soon hopefully :D

Jesus I bet that is stiff as hell to drive how do you find it? Is it your daily or just weekend toy?

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Weekend toy, yeah it is stiff.

It was meant to be a daily,

But turned in to a weekend toy as more and more got done to it .

It's also on air ride, so I don't have to roll low on bumpy roads, I can lift it up to make the ride quailty much better :) and lower it back down on nicer roads.

But my air ride is as near to track spec air ride as you could make, runs all AN approved fittings, full braided lines. 8way manifold, so no bag transfer.

All have adjustable damper settings.

it courners so much better, and I can slam it in and out of gears as quick as I can.

Short shift will be being made soon.

I have already cut the height of the gear stick down.

Oh yeah and I have a front upper strut brace.

Soon to have rear brace aswell.

Even thou it is on air ride , it not a car that get nursed about. I still like to drive the hell out of it!

Why I'm supercharging it over winter.

What VR's are made for! To be driven hard.

Edited by c00k
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