Where to go to get my turbo setup fitted?

[Bealieboy 1,625]

Glad you're up and running ibs. Looking like turbulence in the maf housing possibly and fuel pressure needs fine tuning. Good work!

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[ibs 308]

Errrrm ok I've just got home and a couple more issues have arisen. The gear selection isn't great I try and put it into first and it slips into third. I assume something needs adjusting can anyone tell me what to do please. Secondly just popped the bonnet up to have a look and all 4 downpipe bolts have come completely loose!! The gasket that I cut out of the cork material has also disintegrated. I didn't use any self locking nuts on the downpipe or any loctite, do you guys advise me to do that?

Edited December 28, 2014 by ibs

[ibs 308]

Glad you're up and running ibs. Looking like turbulence in the maf housing possibly and fuel pressure needs fine tuning. Good work!

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Cheers bud. Yep it looks like that is the case.

[Bealieboy 1,625]

Get some chewing gum or anything on those bolts to stop em coming undone ibs, that's pissed me off so I can't imagine how you feel!

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[cactusjackslade 146]

Locktite and spring washers should solve the auto loosening bolts. Locktite alone will melt and dissolve with the heat. Some good strong spring washers should stop it. As for the gasket cork is usually ok for inlet side but you need a metal "crush" gasket for exhaust really...

I know on the mk4 golfs there is a peg u pull out of the selector mechanism to set the gear selection up.. I think it's on the cables on the vr6 but not totally sure.

[ibs 308]

Get some chewing gum or anything on those bolts to stop em coming undone ibs, that's pissed me off so I can't imagine how you feel!

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Very annoyed right now. Took me ages to tighten them up the first time.

[ibs 308]

Locktite and spring washers should solve the auto loosening bolts. Locktite alone will melt and dissolve with the heat. Some good strong spring washers should stop it. As for the gasket cork is usually ok for inlet side but you need a metal "crush" gasket for exhaust really...

I know on the mk4 golfs there is a peg u pull out of the selector mechanism to set the gear selection up.. I think it's on the cables on the vr6 but not totally sure.

Looks like a trip to my local auto factors will be in order tomorrow.

Just did a quick search online. So are crush gaskets just a circular ring? Where would be the best place to get one from?

[cactusjackslade 146]

Looks like a trip to my local auto factors will be in order tomorrow.

Just did a quick search online. So are crush gaskets just a circular ring? Where would be the best place to get one from?

You can get some that are just a ring that squash. but the type in my opinion would be best for your downpipe is the sort that are used on exhaust manifolds on most cars. a flat metal gasket with a raised section in the Center that crushes together when you lighten up the bolts to make a good seal. You just need to find one the right size for ur down pipe.

[ibs 308]

Cheers il have a look online for one. Not sure how I'm going to keep it in place though while I tighten the nuts up.

[cactusjackslade 146]

Cheers il have a look online for one. Not sure how I'm going to keep it in place though while I tighten the nuts up.

Something like this. Will prob take some finding to get one the right size. I'm sure you will make something fit lol.

http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mn8UxgFY5Ao99AKh3Kp4kjw.jpg

As for holding it in place. Trial and error I'm afraid

[ibs 308]

Ok getting one like that will make it easier, I hadn't seen them with the bolt holes in them. Il have a measure up tomorrow. Thanks bud.

[VR6CABBS 1,311]

I found this if it helps.....

Adjusting GTI-VR6 cable shift linkage

for perfect shift alignment.

This whole procedure only requires 1 or 2 end wrenches and some time.

You can't really do any damage so don't worry about that, but also

don't feel like you have to settle for "barely good enough", when "just

right" may be achievable.

Let me make the terms I'll use clear first.

shift lever = lever inside the car with shift knob

tranny lever = the *actual* shift lever directly attached to the top of

the transmission

left = counter clockwise - when I'm talking about tranny lever

right = clockwise

First warm the car up with a drive so that it slips in and out of gear

smoothly or as smoothly as you can get it given whatever shifting

annoyance you're having.

Now the best way to sort all this out is to get a good feel

(literally) for how the tranny lever works.

To do this, first pop the cover off the shift lever opening

inside the car, and loosen the bolt that hold the side to

side centering spring. We'll get back to this later.

Put the car in 3rd gear. This is done first so that the centering

spring doesn't have ANY influence on the natural positions of

the tranny lever under the hood. Ultimately the goal is

to make it so that the natural position of the tranny lever

is the same as the centering position of this spring, and there's

enough clearance that reverse and 5th engage without hitting

the stops in the shift lever box.

Set the ebrake because you'll be taking the car in and out of gear.

Now go back under the hood and reach down and grab the tranny lever

and wiggle it until it pops out of gear. It should now be sitting in the

neutral position between 3rd and 4th gear. Here's the

gear positions. From this neutral spot they are as follows.

pull up and left - 5th

straight left - 3rd

straight right - 4th

push down (just a little) and left - 1st

push down (just a little) and right - 2nd

push down a lot (all the way) and left - reverse

You should be able to sit there and move the lever up and down

and left and right and get it into every gear, sometimes requiring

a little wiggling to coerce the gears to mesh. It's easier if

the tranny oil's warmed up. Go through all the gears so that you

understand where they are all the time. Shift it into a gear, and then go

look at the shift lever in the car and see if you got the right spot.

Finding 1st is the trickiest because it's between 3rd and reverse

and you'll notice that there's no real resistance to getting into

reverse, unlike at the shift lever where it blocks you out..

You'll also notice an arm just underneath the tranny lever that swings

forward and back when you pull or push the lever up or down. You'll notice

a bolt attaching that arm to a cable. That's the first adjustment

bolt of interest. Loosen it.

With that loose, when you move the tranny lever up and down, you'll

find that the shift lever in the car no longer moves side to side,

or only does so at the ends of the throw.. Be prepared to tighten

and loosen this bolt a couple times.

Ok, here starts the fun. Put the tranny lever into 3rd gear again.

neutral -> left

Now go into the car, and you'll find the shift lever is

forward but freely swings back and forth. Put it so it's basically

straight up side to side, but still forward in 3rd gear. Go tighten

the bolt under the hood, and move the tranny lever to 5th gear.

Back inside look, not at the position of the lever itself,

but at the nylon stop on the bottom end of the lever. The problem I'd

been having was that when I went for 5th gear, sometimes it

hit the stop a bit early so I'd occasionally hit 3rd instead. What you

want to see is a little gap between the bottom of the lever and the

stop on the left. (top of the lever goes right, bottom goes left)

Gently push the lever further to the right and make sure that gap doesn't

completely close, or it does only with more pressure.

If there's no gap, or it closes with light pressure then it means

your shift lever is starting a bit too far to the right. Go put

the car back in 3rd from the tranny lever, loosen the adjustment

bolt and then move your 3rd gear shift lever position a bit further to the

left than before. Tighten the bolt, put the car in 5th and check your

clearances again. When it looks decent, now go back and put it

in reverse using the tranny lever. (I say to use the tranny lever so that

you don't have to fully tighten down the adjustment bolt each time)

Now the shift lever should be full to the left, but again, it

should not be touching anything on the left or right (bottom of the lever).

Again push it to the left a little and make sure it doesn't hit

anything right away. If it does, then you may have a problem finding

reverse, and it means the shift lever is a bit too far to the left.

Repeat the steps for finding your 5th gear clearance but reversed.

When it feels right, try 5th again, reverse again and so on.

When there appears to be adequate clearance on both sides, and

the 3rd gear shift lever position feels natural (straight forward)

go tighten the adjustment bolt under the hood all the way.

It sounds complicated but it's not. You should get it in no more than

about two adjustments.

Now put the car back into 3rd. You may have noticed that

the little bracket that the shift lever centering spring is on

has been sliding back and forth since you loosened that bolt. Jiggle the

lever side to side while you're still in 3rd and try to get the bracket

centered in the middle of the slop (there's always a little slop).

Tighten the bolt holding the centering spring bracket. Now you should

find that the lever moves very smoothly into 3rd and 4th with no side to

side motion of the shift lever at all. If it moves a little as it goes

into gear, loosen the centering spring again and edge the bracket a little

so that it lines up with the in-gear position. Try to make it

so that the throw into 3rd and 4th is perfectly straight.

Now try all the gears.. 3rd and 4th should go in straight, 1st and 2nd

some resistance from the spring, and there should be a clear resistance

and easy movement to the side for 5th (originally 3rd and 5th were

sorta hard to tell apart). If you feel that two gears seem to be

confused with each other, move the center spring a little away from

that side.

Now go drive the car.

You may find that things shift a little bit as soon as you drive it.

Make sure reverse, and 5th are both reachable and engage positively with

no argument, but with some spring resistance. I just took my wrench along

and stopped once to adjust the centering spring and then it was perfect.

If you can't get it into reverse or 5th, then start over, but I promise

it'll go *very* fast the next time around.

All told this shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes, and we're

talking a grand total of 2 bolts, so this is definitely a DIY job.

When you're all done double check to make sure that both bolts are

tight, especially the one under the tranny lever.

Stay away from the forward and back adjustment bolts unless you're having

a serious problem with them, like popping out of gear or something.

[ibs 308]

Cheers il have a read.

[ibs 308]

Got to work on the car today. Sorted out the gear selection issue it was a minor problem. One of the coolant hoses was getting in the way of the gear selector thing If that's what it's called. A couple of tie wraps worked a treat.

Sorted the downpipe out with some spring washers, self locking nuts and some thread lock stuff.

Drove the car for around 100 miles today. The more I'm driving it the more I'm falling in love. The sound of the turbo spooling and sucking in air is awesome and addictive. Even by just driving up to around 3k revs which I'm doing at the moment it pulls so nice and really puts a smile on my face. Still cutting out every now and again though so fuelling isn't quite right yet. Will make some more adjustments on the fuel pressure regulator and see how I get on.

[J4Y VR 36]

I'm glad that you're sorting through the little problems

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[ibs 308]

I'm glad that you're sorting through the little problems

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Yep trying to. I want it running good before I take it to get mapped.

[c00k 435]

Did you rebuild your injectors or get new injectors while re-building engine?

I would get them check and see if there firing correctly. If one is down on it flow, and not firing to it full potential it will cause it to cut out under load. As one or. 2 cylinders could be starved of fuel.

As VR system can handle 4 bar pressure.

Lates spec VRs came with 3 bar, but early spec Corrado with Dizzy came with 4 bar, and only difference in system is fuel regular and fuel filter. They used a threaded type fuel filter instead of a push to connect type.

So I'd get the injectors checked, you can take them to places and they can check to see if there firing / squirting correctly, and the flow of each one.

Then depending on results I would get them ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt with new baskets and seals.

Don't try and clean them your self. Stuff I have seen on you tune of ways people show how to clean them are terrible, and cause more damage than good.

Get them professionally tested to check flow and firing . Get them professionally ultrasonic cleaned. Then rebuild them your self.

Also have you got a version of vag-com or VCD's?

I would get hold of one , then you can do some data logging, and use the measuring block while driving about.

Even plot some graphs when you get home if you wanted .

It slipping in to 3rd will be gear box relay,

You can get and upgraded alloy version made.

Or some company in US sell them.

Or just make the the bolts are nice and tight.

I use high temp lock tight, and replace most bolts with 12.9 high tensile, so long as there not captive bolts or moulded in. Or if there stretch bolt, I replace them with genuine OE nuts and bolts.

Edited January 2, 2015 by c00k

[chrisvr6t 19]

I had same problem was cutting out when car got hot and wouldn't start for like another 20min until the car cooled down also had united Motorsport 630 pro maf tune on it!!! It got so bad that I was lean in off boost but on boost fine that cost me a engine built another and was still doing it!! Only thing I could think of is the map it's self when car is up to temp it's cutting fuel down to much sounding like it's got no petrol on there!!! BUT. I did put a new Intank fuel pump in drive for 50miles n sold the car didn't cut out in that time! Only reason I ended up selling was that cutting out situation f*cked me off I ended up hating the car so I sold it CHEAPPPPPP

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[ibs 308]

Did you rebuild your injectors or get new injectors while re-building engine?

I would get them check and see if there firing correctly. If one is down on it flow, and not firing to it full potential it will cause it to cut out under load. As one or. 2 cylinders could be starved of fuel.

As VR system can handle 4 bar pressure.

Lates spec VRs came with 3 bar, but early spec Corrado with Dizzy came with 4 bar, and only difference in system is fuel regular and fuel filter. They used a threaded type fuel filter instead of a push to connect type.

So I'd get the injectors checked, you can take them to places and they can check to see if there firing / squirting correctly, and the flow of each one.

Then depending on results I would get them ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt with new baskets and seals.

Don't try and clean them your self. Stuff I have seen on you tune of ways people show how to clean them are terrible, and cause more damage than good.

Get them professionally tested to check flow and firing . Get them professionally ultrasonic cleaned. Then rebuild them your self.

Also have you got a version of vag-com or VCD's?

I would get hold of one , then you can do some data logging, and use the measuring block while driving about.

Even plot some graphs when you get home if you wanted .

It slipping in to 3rd will be gear box relay,

You can get and upgraded alloy version made.

Or some company in US sell them.

Or just make the the bolts are nice and tight.

I use high temp lock tight, and replace most bolts with 12.9 high tensile, so long as there not captive bolts or moulded in. Or if there stretch bolt, I replace them with genuine OE nuts and bolts.

Thanks for the detailed reply mate. I'm using 440cc injectors at the moment which were given to me with the turbo and I'm not sure the condition of them. I also have a brand new set of 630cc which will be going on when I go to get the mapping done.

I've not got my own vag-com but I am thinking about buying one. Could you advise on where to get one from?

The gear selection issue I managed to sort out. One of the coolant hoses in the bay was getting in the way.

Edited January 3, 2015 by ibs

[ibs 308]

I had same problem was cutting out when car got hot and wouldn't start for like another 20min until the car cooled down also had united Motorsport 630 pro maf tune on it!!! It got so bad that I was lean in off boost but on boost fine that cost me a engine built another and was still doing it!! Only thing I could think of is the map it's self when car is up to temp it's cutting fuel down to much sounding like it's got no petrol on there!!! BUT. I did put a new Intank fuel pump in drive for 50miles n sold the car didn't cut out in that time! Only reason I ended up selling was that cutting out situation f*cked me off I ended up hating the car so I sold it CHEAPPPPPP

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My issue is not quite the same. Every now and again wether hot or cold when I come to a stop the car will just cut out. It starts back up straight away though. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the fuel pressure as I've been adjusting it and it's got a lot better but still not 100%. I've got another 100 miles to go before it's run in and then I will take it down to get mapped and get Vince at Stealth to have a look at it.

[dave_424 48]

Is your diverter valve working correctly? if it is not working correctly or is venting to atmosphere it will cause the exact problem you are having

[ibs 308]

Is your diverter valve working correctly? if it is not working correctly or is venting to atmosphere it will cause the exact problem you are having

 

Diverter valve seems to be working fine as far as I can tell.

[ibs 308]

I've been slacking with getting more bits done on the car recently. Been driving it daily and enjoying it very much indeed . Engine is run in nice and pretty much ready to be mapped. Covered nearly 1000 miles in less than a week.

So time move on to the next steps now. Ordered up some brackets today which will allow me to run the Cupra R Brembo calipers up front. Does anyone know if the brake lines would be the same for a Cupra R and a VR6?

[VR6CABBS 1,311]

You done really well ibs. Must of been hard work considering you've worked in that little garage. Haha.

This is something I'd like to know with the bembro's. Just acquired a set off a pals cupra. He tells me to use the HEL braided line kit for the VR6. I've emailed HEL to confirm but had no reply yet. I'll post back once I receive a responce pal. :-)

[ibs 308]

Cheers bud. Working in such a tight space was one of the most annoying things with the build.

 

I ordered a set of mk4 platform braided hoses from Creations motorsport as the guy said he would take them back if they didn't fit. I'll have a look at them when I get them. I'm hoping they will be the right ones.