V6 4motion turbo build thread

[dave_424 48]

Hi guys, not so long ago I brought my new project car, It's a 2002 V6 4motion with the BDE engine that I am currently turbocharging. 

 

The build consists of: 

 

Engine

2.8 V6 4motion engine code BDE

Standard pistons and conrods

Head spacer 

ARP head studs

ARP connecting rod bolts

Stock inlet manifold

Sachs 4 puck sintered clutch 

 

Fueling

Stock fuel rail

Stock fuel lines

Inline Walbro 255 fuel pump

630cc injectors 

 

Induction

4” MAF housing 

Stock MAF sensor

2.5” intercooler pipes

450mmx227mmx65mm bar and plate intercooler

 

Turbo/Exhaust

GT35 turbo, .82 AR exhaust housing

T3 cast exhaust manifold 

Tial 38mm wastegate 12psi spring

3” downpipe

Full 3” exhaust with one silencer 

 

Gauges

Innovate AFR gauge

Innovate Boost/RPM shift light gauge

Innovate Oil pressure and oil temp gauge

 

I'm looking for approx 400+bhp, running up to around 15psi of boost which I think is very achievable and should keep it reliable for daily use

 

So far I have installed the Sachs sintered clutch and uprated pressure plate, fitted the inline Walbro 225 fuel pump, fitted the intercooler and just finishing up the 3" exhaust. I also made a custom aluminium gauge holder to hold the three Innovate gauges in my dash. I've sent my ECU to The Phirm for the United Motorsports tune and they will be sending it back with head spacer, MAF housing and injectors.

 

All the work including the exhaust has been and will be done by me

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are a couple of other projects i've done, all welding and fabrication on these has also been done by myself

 

Off road buggy, 900cc bike engine I turbocharged and converted to fuel injection 225bhp 

 

 

 

Another off road buggy, hayabusa engine

 

 

Edited July 5, 2015 by dave_424

[RBPE 198]

Some nice work there!

 

Can't beat a nice 4mo turbo for baiting boy racers!

[Bealieboy 1,625]

Real nice fabrication on the pipe fella, and the buggies, very good!

[dave_424 48]

Thanks guys

 

I welded up the exhaust today, only thing left to do is weld in the lambda sensor bosses. I'm trying to decide where is best to put them, On the stock setup they are about 16" away from the head, which puts them in the first 90 degree bend coming out of the turbo. That location would be rather ideal since there is some room for them around the brake master cylinder.

 

I'll try and speak to United Motorsports and see if I need to use both lambda sensors or just one. Also got to add another boss for my wideband. 

 

Can anyone with a turbo R32/VR6 tell me where their lambda sensors are in their downpipe? 

 

[Neil20vtc 44]

Down pipe looks great, what sort of set up did you use for purging? As I have started to do mine but it was oxidising slightly when I welded the v band to the first 90, doesn't look to great but its welded!

As for the lambda bosses if you look on the diy turbo guide on here there is a picture of kevs vr6 down pipe with the bosses just before a flex bellow which would be just before the v band at the end of your down pipe his seemed to run well so I'm planning on copying him!

[dave_424 48]

No purging on mine, don't think it will be a problem, I've got quite a lot of stainless sugar-ing going on but not worried about it, I don't think anyone really purges downpipes, yes I would do it on a turbo manifold to stop bits breaking off and hurting the turbine wheel but the stuff in the downpipe will just fly out the back haha. 

 

It's looking like the easiest location will be between the third and fourth bend coming from the turbo, but might wait until I have the wastegate screamer pipe sorted to make sure nothing interferes with each other

[UnitedMotorsport 55]

If you are planning on using our turbo software, then the wideband sensors need to be in the downpipe.

[dave_424 48]

If you are planning on using our turbo software, then the wideband sensors need to be in the downpipe.

 

 

They will be, in the 2nd, 3rd or 4th bend out of my turbo, depending on space and how I route my wastage dump

[dave_424 48]

UPDATE: 

 

Got my head off today, all went pretty good except for finding some rust on a couple of my cam lobes, not too happy about that but I'm picking up a another pair of used cams tomorrow. 

 

Spacer plate, United Motorsports flashed ECU, 630cc injectors and 4" MAF housing, ARP head bolts and ARP rod bolts have arrived. 

 

Bores look in very good condition, still see crosshatch marks. I was surprised to see very little carbon on the piston tops which was nice. Head with spacer should be back on by Sunday.

 

 

Edited July 23, 2015 by dave_424

[dave_424 48]

Well, got my R36 coated connecting rod bearings and ARP bolts installed, all went well and was pretty easy. Hardest part was keeping everything clean so that the rod bearings sit correctly in the rods. Messed up on my first bearing, there is a number 22 on my rod cap, so I checked another rod to see which way it should be facing, little did I know that they alternate for each rod, so that locked my crank solid, rotated the cap and it was all good, with that piece of knowledge the other 5 went fine. I did have some engine assembly lube, but I used engine oil instead since it isn't a dry block and I'll make sure I crank it over to build up oil pressure before I start it. 

 

Head bolts from Nevlock Performance were wrong, even though they say they fit my engine code, ordered the correct set from 034 motorsports in the USA, used DHL express shipping which got it to my doorstep in 2 days and all worked out cheaper than the bolts from Nevlock.

 

So next will be head back on, turbo and wastage install and some intercooler pipes

 

[dave_424 48]

Got some more done today!

 

Head and block surfaces were cleaned of all remaining gasket material and then wiped over with degreaser. 

 

 

When I stripped down my engine, I noticed that to get the cam locking tool to slot into the cams, the engine had to be rotated approx 5mm past TDC. I wanted to know if the TDC mark on the front pulley was correct, so I used a dial test indicator zeroed at maximum piston height on cylinder 1. I then rotated the engine backwards until the piston dropped 0.01" and marked where the notch in the front pulley was. Then rotated the engine forwards past TDC until the piston dropped again 0.01" and made another mark. The OEM mark was bang in the middle of the two marks I made meaning the OEM marks were indeed correct

 

 

ARP head studs from 034 motorsports were then installed. I then split my Elring head gasket, removed the centre layer and sprayed all sides of the top, spacer and bottom layers. Once tacky they were laid on top of the block. (WARNING - head gasket layers are razor sharp and whilst I was manoeuvring the bottom layer down the head studs, I cut my finger very deep) I then slid the head down the studs into place, making sure it was pushed all the way down on the locating dowels. Using the ARP lube on both sides of the washers and the nut threads, the head was torqued down to 80 ft/lbs in three equal stages using the correct tightening sequence. On the last torque setting I went through the tightening sequence three times to make sure every stud was equally tight. 

 

 

I then installed my cams (sorry no pictures), making sure that the lobes for both cams for cylinder 1 were facing each other, and that the aligning slot was above camshaft centreline, I tightened down each camshaft cap evenly to 15 ft/lbs. I then installed the cam solenoid plate, using loctite on the bolts, torqued to 8NM, installed the tight side chain guide, loctite on the bolts torqued to 20NM. The sprockets were then installed and the engine timed using the excellent HPA videos here https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4LNikstxsFiWEhrd1BSUHExMXc&usp=sharing

[dave_424 48]

More progress

 

For torquing the cam chain sprockets, they are torque to 44 ft/lbs (if I remember right) and then 90 degrees, so I made this little paper disk that has 90 degree lines and sits over the bolt head, mark where one of the lines meets the cam sprocket, then tighten the bolt until the next line lines up with your mark.

 

 

I got my turbo drain fitting welded into my sump. I used a -10 AN aluminium weld on fitting, some black hose fittings and some stainless braided teflon line, all purchased through Torques on eBay who have an amazing selection of fittings etc. and great service. 

 

 

I then installed my Siemens 630cc injectors and their pigtail harness adapters, I think I can tuck everything out of the way so that it doesn't interfere with the intake manifold. 

 

 

Then finally I welded in my wideband o2 sensor bungs, making sure that they are directed downwards as to not allow moisture to collect in the sensor causing it to fail. Once my wastage arrives, I'll see how much room I have to fit my sensor for my wideband gauge as close to the turbo as I can. 

[c00k 435]

Fair play mate, going to be amazing engine once finished.

Looking forward to more updates.

[dave_424 48]

Fair play mate, going to be amazing engine once finished.

Looking forward to more updates.

 

 

Thanks, it's been in the planning for a little while. I'm only 21 and a motorsport engineering student so I am trying to do this on a budget but making sure I buy the right stuff so I encounter as little problems as possible. Being able to do all the welding and spannering myself has saved me thousands already!

[dave_424 48]

Some parts from www.turbodynamics.co.uk arrived today. A genuine Garrett dual ball bearing GT3582R with a .82 exhaust housing and a Tial 38mm wastage with a 1 bar spring (all they had). Decided to go with the Genuine turbo since I am doing everything correctly, why skimp out on probably the most important part. I know lots of people do get them to work fine, I decided against it on a daily driven road car. 

 

I'll get the drain, feed and water lines done in the next few days. After that it's just routing some 4" intake piping between my MAF housing and turbo, intercooler pipes and weld up a screamer pipe . Shouldn't be long now!

[dubspy 19]

good work fella.. will be alot of fun once complete..

[dave_424 48]

Did some work on it today, first was to modify the heat shield so that it would clear the turbo compressor housing outlet and the wastegate. A bit of guess work and some careful grinding sorted that. Then I had to move one of the coolant hard pipes that is attached to the heat shield so that it would clear everything. Here is how it came out

 

 

I then made up the turbo oil feed and coolant lines. Turbo oil feed uses a M10x1mm banjo at the oil filter housing, I used -4 teflon line with a black PVC coating for an OEM stealth look and at the turbo end I used a 7/16"x24 stainless banjo with a built in 2mm restrictor. If the 2mm restrictor makes the turbo smoke, I can just weld the hole up and drill it smaller.

 

The coolant line is routed so that the coolant coming out of the throttle body, goes into the turbo, then out of the turbo and then to the pipe where the throttle body outlet would have originally gone.

 

Got to get some P-clips to secure the turbo feed but the turbo is now bolted on for good using Garrett's supplied copper locking nuts. 

 

Next will be the wastage dump tube, then the inlet manifold can go back on, some boost pipes and it will be ready for a first start

[dave_424 48]

Managed to get a little bit more done today, first thing was to make up my wastage dump/screamer pipe, I also added a little stainless tab at the bottom that bolts to one of the sump bolts. This should take some stress out of the system but since the tab is thin it should't create a bind if something wants to move around or expand with heat. It vents straight down by the drivers side wheel, should be pretty loud

 

With that finished, I then could put on the intake manifold since that would have majorly restricted my access to the wastage.

]

 

Then I attached all of the electrical connectors and vacuum lines. I did realise one problem though, since I modified the water hard lines to clear the wastegate, the water feed pipe from the coolant reservoir has been raised. This means that coolant from the reservoir doesn't fill the system until the level in the reservoir is about an inch above the max line. I'll just make new max and min marks and see how it goes. 

 

I then offered up my 4" intake pipe 45 degree aluminium bend, it required a little bit of trimming of the shift cable bracket and since the pipe still rests on the bracket, I slit open some vacuum hose and glued it on the bracket, hopefully giving the intake pipe an easier time and stop any rattles. 4" MAF sensor will go on after the pipe (the MAF sensor wires are in the perfect spot) and then a large K&N air filter. 

 

 

[dave_424 48]

It's...........ALIVE!! 

Filled it up with coolant at approx a 40-50% mix and installed my NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped at .026". I attached the stock intake pipe with the original MAF housing removed and taped on my 4" MAF housing, cranked over to build up some oil pressure and it fired into life.

Idle was rough and after a minute or two of running, it threw a code of random/intermittent misfire and misfire on cylinder 4, I was hoping it wasn't the injector wiring since that means I would have had to take the intake manifold off again. I swapped coil pack 4 and 2, problem was still there so I gave it a little bit of throttle and that cleared it straight away and purred like a kitten.

Some smoke/steam from the turbo/manifold/downpipe from handling and instillation, and also I spilled a little bit of coolant back there, but that soon burnt off. Some vapour from the exhaust and water dripping from the rear silencer but that's to be expected since it's been sat so long.

I'm a very happy chap, guess I got the timing right then 

Before I run it any more, I want to install my intercooler piping and pipe everything up like it should be, I also want to loosen the oil feed fitting at the turbo or the oil drain and verify that the turbo is getting oil.

[JakeP 53]

Best place to get the turbo? straight from garret or any tuning firms that stock them ?

[dave_424 48]

I got mine from www.turbodynamics.co.uk but RBPE on here could have gotten me a slightly better deal. Also got my Tial wastegate from turbo dynamics and got that at trade price 

 

Car is going great at the moment, boosting up to about 12psi its crazy fast. I've put 200 miles on it with zero problems

[RBPE 198]

Nice work mate, 4mo turbo conversions are getting easier and cheaper by the day for people, real beasts when some decent boost goes through them, go and embarrass a few Porsche owners!

 

With the engine/bores checked etc, it should be nice and reliable too at that boost and more.

 

PM'd you

[Mk3highline 287]

Great work

[Sinzo 0]

Nice work!,im bookmarkin this..

[dave_424 48]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'm driving it every day since I finished it and have experienced no problems.