JakeP 53 Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 Hi guys, soon I will be starting my turbo build and I would like to hear any comments on what parts you guys suggest from experience, Its going to be a 3k+ build because It will be a year + project, Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, First thing I have to do is source an engine and freshen it up with new piston rings valve stem seals etc etc and give it a good ol' rebuild and do as much of the turbo work I can out of the engine because i am currently still using my car so cant be building on my daily! As soon as Ive gotten an engine I will be posting whenever I can over a long period showing you my progress! Any advice on turbos, manifolds, injectors etc etc would be great!! VR6Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites
dave_424 48 Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 Read my build thread here http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/46794-v6-4motion-turbo-build-thread/ Granted it's a 24v engine but most of the ideas and fabrication is the same between all vr6 engines. I'm using a Garrett GT3582R ball bearing turbo with a .82 AR exhaust housing. In a high gear I can get full boost right around 3k rpm and doesn't run out of puff at high rpm. VR6Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Is the Garret gt3582r good ? I was following one of the turbo builds on a corrado and he upgraded to that and said it was brilliant, Thank you for any info and advice as I am obviously a newbie but looking to try and get my head around everything I can ! daveyboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
dave_424 48 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 I believe that some people go for some of the newer technology turbos like the Borg Warner EFR range of some other brands with billet compressor wheels, but I think it's a fantastic turbo for our engines. I'm still on stock connecting rods and pistons so it'll do everything I want to and more Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 I will have a look around but will probably lean to the gt35, what bhp are you running with stock internals? charlies54 1 Link to post Share on other sites
dave_424 48 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 From the information in my build thread you can see what I've brought for the turbo conversion, and I believe I am under £4k and under £6k including the cost of the car. Just to give you an idea on costs. Obviously I have done every piece of labour and fab work on the car which is how I have managed to keep costs down Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Managed to get my hand on an OBD1 engine which I will be converting to OBD2 , started to strip it all down to rebuild the head and replace anything on the way , here's what I've been up to and have done the past 2 days since getting the engine Will be giving an update on anything that i do Edited October 17, 2015 by JakeP daveyboy and D11PS 2 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Gave the Pistons and the block a good clean today Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 After a tough few months of money problems the build had to be put on hold and I had to take the vr6 off the road as it was too expensive to drive as a daily but now I am starting to get on my feet and have been busy with the golf ... Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Time to start taking out the engine After a few days i finally got the engine out ky_uk, Bealieboy and michael5556 3 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Right , just pulled the head off and inspected the block , pretty fucked lol so I will be using another block I have had stored away , I need some advice if anyone could help me , the car is an obd1 with a coil pack , basically I want to convert it to an obd2 to turbo it , what exactly do I need to convert it as I want to start gathering the parts required , thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Dale P P 0 Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hello Jake, I'm sorry I can't offer any advice but I'm about to start my vrt build. I too have OBD1 with coil what advantage is there to converting to obd2 many thanks Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hey no worries and cool let me know how yours comes along ! And the obd2 ecu responds a lot better to mapping apparently ! Link to post Share on other sites
ky_uk 304 Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Jake it looks like we are just at the same stage JakeP 1 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted February 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 Ive been struggling with work ever since I was made redundant a year ago but hopefully might be getting a new job soon and then finally the build can start getting somewhere! Link to post Share on other sites
ky_uk 304 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Hi Jake this is the best write up I can find on the conversion, have check what you need and let me know http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3934082 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted April 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 (edited) Right, been busy recently as I have finally gotten a job and time for an update on the build, I have just bought Ky's 3.0 Litre block with forged pistons , turbo manifold and ht leads, Ive ordered a short runner intake, exhaust valves, 630 cc injectors, mocal oil cooler, and just bought UM pro maf and tial wastegate off black dubs.... Now what rods to get, anyone got any ideas on good forged rods to buy to fit the 3.0 litre block? And here is the block and pistons that will be on its way monday Edit: ZRP con rods bought now just waiting for it all to turn up and get on with it Edited April 24, 2016 by JakeP Bealieboy, ky_uk and gaz205t 3 Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 Sounds good, not hanging about then? Nice reliable base to build from. JakeP, VR6Pete and ky_uk 3 Link to post Share on other sites
VR6CABBS 1,311 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 Looking forward to seeing this up and running dude. What turbo are you going for? This might give me some determination to finish mine off. Haha JakeP 1 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted April 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 I think I'm going for the Garret GT3582R with a 1.06 ar for a later spool to help the gearbox haha , what bearings are a good buy? Seeing as ive got time want to try and make it right and put some decent main and big ends on it, any suggestions? VR6CABBS 1 Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 12 minutes ago, JakeP said: I think I'm going for the Garret GT3582R with a 1.06 ar for a later spool to help the gearbox haha , what bearings are a good buy? Seeing as ive got time want to try and make it right and put some decent main and big ends on it, any suggestions? You know, i'm not convinced that the ar makes that much of a difference on box breaking, the math/physics doesn't add up. Shock of slip to grip exerts far more force and modulation of that force would be better and on things like an 02M there are angular aspects to take note of. 02A and the like it's when it grips 4th/5th usually and that can depend on boost level, tyres, turbo bearing system etc. There's also material used as stock, the degree of heat treatment or hairline fractures of your stock box etc hence cryo treatments - there are far too many things to do with the box/drivetrain that explain breakages than turbo ar ratio in my opinion! I think 034 did coated bearings, no reason you can't get stock and have a coater do the same I suppose but that's about slippage and thermal load protections - engine dependent of course but again - thermal loads can be lessened with such coatings and slippage could as easily be a worn engine or a poor engine builder using bad tolerances! JakeP 1 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted April 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 I was thinking about putting in a Diesel 5th on the O2A while getting it all rebuilt, Would that be a good choice to strengthen the box? Is there a lot of work converting to an 02M box? Link to post Share on other sites
VR6CABBS 1,311 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 Not sure with bearings dude as I havent touched the bottom end. If your going the full hog a nice little mod would also be to fit the mk5 R32 sump, oil pump and pick up from the BUB or BDB engine. If you throw it into corners hard quite regularly. It has plastic inserts which act as windage and surge baffles. Works a treat and bolts right onto any 12 or 24V VR6 engine. The MK5 sump sits slightly above the subframe wishbone bolts, so in theory the s/frame should kiss the ground first. Just something for you to think about pal. Not sure on what turbo yet but quite like the precision for reliability. What box and clutch are you going with? JakeP 1 Link to post Share on other sites
JakeP 53 Posted April 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 I will keep that in mind, thanks! And haven't yet finally decided to do about the gearbox, either rebuild the 02A with LSD and maybe diesel 5th or something or maybe convert to an 02M, the clutch I will probably have to go with a stage 3 or something, any heads up on any clutches that people have used in previous builds and have been ok driving wise would be great! Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way; 1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" - are the teeth worn too much? Can someone or you do a check on the state of your box? Using perhaps dyes or other such techniques? A poor base means a bad start! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html 2. "Can I afford someone to modify the strength of my box?" - if so, how? Assuming it's too expensive to manufacture your own box/cogs, what about heat treatment, even though your stock box has gone through thousands of heating and cooling cycles in it's life. Will heat treatment or cryo freezing be a wise idea....can I afford it? I all honesty, it's not covering the basics that costs people the most money, stock boxes are usually rated to 200-250lb/ft from the factory but 02M's can do 700+lb/ft or 02A's 500+, depends if the basics are covered! 3. Clutches - what boost you looking at, what can you put up with for a daily in terms of pedal feel/grippy/noise, cost etc? If you go aftermarket that can clamp these massive increases in torque under FI then are the teeth in the box as new as stated earlier - if not will they shred due to gaps? Point is - you can take a risk with your box, even buy 2/3 pretty cheap to replace, but if you are spending money, you have to think about the basics, it is what destroys parts. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_barrier_coating http://www.zircotec.com/ http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/ "No point putting a bucket under a leaky roof, fix the roof itself!" gaz205t, VR6Pete and JakeP 3 Link to post Share on other sites
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