Logan_M 6 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I'm in the process of building my Corrado's engine. I'm going with the following for sure: Wiseco 82mm 9.0:1 forged pistons Eurospec forged rods ARP hardware P&P big valve head (42mm/36mm), Supertech springs, titanium retainers, MK4 lifters Autotech 262 cams (bought several years ago and stored, would use another set if recommended) MK4 head gasket I'm trying to decide on basically everything else. I'm heavily leaning towards a GT3582R 1.06a/r turbo and have a few questions. Will that turbo reliably produce a streetable 400+ whp? No insane spooling to break transmission parts, and not a top end only powerband? What exhaust manifolds are people running mostly? Just the ATP style ones? What about the wastegate? What's recommended? Link to post Share on other sites
dave_424 48 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) Check out my build thread on here. Mine is the 24v engine with a GT3582r .82 and I'm at full boost by 3k rpm and seems to not run out of puff at redline. This was low'ish boost around 12-13 psi Edited February 16, 2016 by dave_424 Daverse, daveyboy, c00k and 1 other 4 Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 That definitely looks like fun! I want to make sure it's streetable, don't need to blow anything up either. That's why I'm "over building" the engine, it *should* be able to handle much more power than I intend to run it at. What made you choose .82 over 1.06? I've heard 1.06 is better for not boosting suddenly and breaking transmissions... Link to post Share on other sites
Bealieboy 1,625 Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Nice, and still getting 4.3mpg!!!! JakeP, sharki, D11PS and 2 others 5 Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 10 hours ago, Logan_M said: That definitely looks like fun! I want to make sure it's streetable, don't need to blow anything up either. That's why I'm "over building" the engine, it *should* be able to handle much more power than I intend to run it at. What made you choose .82 over 1.06? I've heard 1.06 is better for not boosting suddenly and breaking transmissions... 0.63 too small, some prefer the 1.06 but it's more up top - 0.82ar by far the most popular as it mixes low and top end for road use. You can play with it in the tune also, VVT can have a profound difference on spool as too cams etc If you're on the O2A box and FWD then it's where your tyres start to grip that'll shred your box so 4th or 5th gear most likely as it grips. 02M boxes are more durable, you can get FWD conversion kits, Gearbox Doctor can do supports for two of the shafts to strenghten the box, cryo freezing, HD shafts etc - lot's can be done to strengthen the drivetrain but it can cost! JakeP 1 Link to post Share on other sites
dave_424 48 Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 15 hours ago, Logan_M said: That definitely looks like fun! I want to make sure it's streetable, don't need to blow anything up either. That's why I'm "over building" the engine, it *should* be able to handle much more power than I intend to run it at. What made you choose .82 over 1.06? I've heard 1.06 is better for not boosting suddenly and breaking transmissions... My car is 100% a street car, and I have only really had turbo diesels so I wanted a suitable amount of low end power and for the boost to come in at a reasonable RPM so you don't have to spend all the time in the high RPM's. Like RBPE said I have the 02m 4wd trans with a 4 paddle clutch so I don't have any worries about breaking it any time soon. My build was for a reliable 400-500bhp, for use as a daily driver. I've turned the boost up to approx 18psi but totally forgot about my plastic intake manifold, might have to turn it down before it cracks/blows 7 hours ago, Bealieboy said: Nice, and still getting 4.3mpg!!!! I have a feeling that's the lowest the display will read since it's pegged at 4.3 pretty much the whole time. Bealieboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 The trans is unfortunately still the O2A. It's being built with ARP bolts, cryo-treated gears, and a Wavetrac diff, so that should help. Unfortunately the O2M just wasn't an option at this point in time. Sounds like the .82 is the way to go with these. It's going to be a street car, but just a toy. Not a daily driven car at all. It probably won't see 1000 miles in a year honestly. Bealieboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Physics, she's a hard mistress to tame! You've gone someway to sort the problem, good spec material with that list so about as much as you can do considering, being in the US I'd keep an eye on the driiveshaft shop for some nice HD shafts in future but at the end of the day it's the shock of slip to grip that exert's the most force on the drive-train so modulating the throttle input to ease the transition would be best, I would assume you can do that better and to keep good pace where the grunt is more mid range than up top, so 0.82 as opposed to bigger on fwd for better modulation? Saying that I wouldn't take advice from someone who blows gearboxes up for fun on whatever car they drive! G-Force, she's my mistress! Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 So it's sounding like a GT3582R .82 would be the better turbo, and the ATP type manifold would work as well. I'm going to go with a water/meth injection setup as well. It's about $500, but that's money well spent for insurance on a very costly engine build in my opinion. Anyone disagree? Not sure what size injectors I'd go with. And I'd like to use a short runner for simplicity, but have read many not-so-good posts on various forums about their inefficiency, would staying with the stock intake be better overall? Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 GT3582r with .82 is an excellent turbo my first VRT made 576bhp with 26psi. I used £80 ATP Ebay clone manifold and it worked a treat. Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 So does THIS look like the right Turbo for my application? Seems like the best price I can find for it, and says it's genuine. I'm assuming I want this T4 as opposed to the T3 version right? Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 No you want the T3 version. May I recommend an authorised Garrett dealer like Owen Developments or ATP Turbo. It is so easy to get fleeced with a fake it's just not worth trying to save a few quid. Link to post Share on other sites
dave_424 48 Posted February 26, 2016 Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 I got mine from http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk, I think it was £1050 for the turbo with next day delivery JakeP 1 Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 22 hours ago, dave_424 said: I got mine from http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk, I think it was £1050 for the turbo with next day delivery He's in the US, no import duty or VAT! Lucky sod, ATP/Full Race etc is what he wants! Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Realstreet Performance in the US are good too, that's where I got my GTX from. Link to post Share on other sites
daveyboy 897 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 I got a turbo direct from ATP years ago for my mk4 1.8T and they were good to deal with, even priced the package down for my so import costs into the UK were cheaper Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 So I'm looking at ATP and found this: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-006&Category_Code=GRT But there seems to be a TON of options. I don't even know where to start with all this... Plus a list of items down below, I'd assume I need the oil return fitting, oil return gaskets, plus a ton of fittings and such. Any help with this? Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 GT35R T3 0.82A/R - V band best and easier to remove your downpipe or the simple 4 bolt pattern is a bit cheaper - 3" discharge external gate Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yes - get the fittings too for it at same time Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 This is the only option that resembles what you said. Is this correct? There are so many different options that it's confusing as hell. Most places don't seem to list that many options. But I have heard that ATP is one of the most reliable here in the U.S. Link to post Share on other sites
dubspy 19 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 i would go to Owen developments.. they were the cheapest by miles. ATP was a lot more expensive once you consider import duty and postage. recently brought mine from owen development, and of the top of my head think they were around £500 cheaper. Link to post Share on other sites
daveyboy 897 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I think Logan_M is already in the states dubspy. I remember when I got mine from ATP for my 1.8t years ago I saved about £500 than getting it from Awesome that was including shipping and import costs. That was for the turbo and 3" inlet pipe Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 That is the one Logan. I'm sure ATP did a downpipe for your LHD car, and the price was pretty reasonable too. Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Have a word with ATP as your over there, they'll sort you out if you ask them to double check http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-177&Category_Code=AUDIVW-DP Link to post Share on other sites
Logan_M 6 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thank you all for the help and understanding. This is a huge project for me and I'm spending a LOT of money. I've owned this car since 2002 and this engine project has been on hold while I saved money to do this, as well as got the guts to really dive in and spend this kind of money on an old car. I really appreciate the guidance, I don't want to but the wrong thing and have to do this all over again. daveyboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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