ASHP89 40 Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 How much can these engine internals take before changing stuff? I can imagine a turbo setup would be cheaper? Link to post Share on other sites
Dave_ciw 507 Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 The stock internals a re good for 350. A lot more work involved in turbo. Stealth do a drive in drive out conversion. It ain't cheap though. VR6 Supercharged and VR6Pete 2 Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 Supercharged 104 Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 39 minutes ago, Dave_ciw said: The stock internals a re good for 350. A lot more work involved in turbo. Stealth do a drive in drive out conversion. It ain't cheap though. I agree here, and certainly with the fact that the drive in drive out turbo conversion at Stealth not being cheap. When I spoke to Vince about doing my VR he quoted around £8,500, that did include doing the chains and new clutch mind. That said though tiz still alot of coin... Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Mine is supercharged with a 3.68 final drive. 294bhp. Goes well. Final drive helps a lot! But I'd go for turbo all day over a supercharger if you have 5k to throw at it. My charger only comes into its own on full throttle conditions and only produces peak PSI high up rev range. Don't get me wrong it's awesome and torque steers all over the place whilst pinning you in the back of the seat and makes a great noise. But it's natural progression to go from a supercharger to turbo install and most people do. In terms of cost, I've probably only spent 1k on my charger install including map so still good value for money and also bhp / ££. Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 My first VRT cost me only £3000 and that was including high quality components like Garrett GT3582r and Tial 38mm wastgate. I have ran stock engine at 576bhp for many years no problem it is the standard gearbox that will limit you to 400 ponies. Link to post Share on other sites
ASHP89 40 Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Not sure how much il have to spend, probz around 2k after ive sold my scooby and put 3-4k towards the misses having a new car...i had to compromise what if cams were installed along with a charger? And decent throttle boddies? 8k drive in drive out is alot what will be needed for turbo install? A good turbo for 400? Were abouts are you pete? Would love a passenger ride to see what its like. Also the 3.68 final drive is that a different gearbox? Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 I've been trying to sort a decent DIY turbo kit out recently for in-between £2-3k but those are for mk4's - I've had a few of you come to me with 12v's using the Holset HX35/40's and most of you build them for under £4k, really depends how much work you want to do yourself. There's a few local VAG lads here pushing nigh on 300hp on 20vt Corrado's/ mk1 Scirocco's etc for well under £2k all in, but doing everything in-house themselves and I sort the maps as I owe them free work, so it doesn't have to cost a bomb to do it well. If I was you and with you being a Scooby owner you'd prefer a turbo set up as you'd miss the hit of a turbo mid rev range I reckon! Most DIYers go Holset if on a budget but check the turbine side as they're usually for trucks and hard to get new, decent cast mani, intercooler (175mm & 240mm high ones used for cheap/decent off ebay - never had any problems myself), bov, wg if necessary, stock engine, low boost for 300+hp - stock clutch can handle 300-350lb/ft, bit more with things like ebay stage 1/2 upgrades (more for most branded ones chosen), then the map so probably Stealth for 12v by all accounts - cheapest way to build a decent set up if you don't mind a bit of DIY? Still budget a few grand but if you go turbo route that's the most popular way most of the DIYers I deal with do it! bennyk 1 Link to post Share on other sites
RBPE 198 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) Ignore Edited July 5, 2016 by RBPE Link to post Share on other sites
Keiron 8 Posted October 20, 2018 Report Share Posted October 20, 2018 On 02/07/2016 at 9:59 PM, Dave_ciw said: I would do injectors before pump. Get a 4 bar fuel regulator. If you are going to do cams. Do them before the map. The remap should be your final step. Do not buy a TDI . VRs fuck the world. Forced induction VRs fuck everything hahahaha Why get a 4 bar fpr ? Link to post Share on other sites
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