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All new VR, very nearly complete...


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Well here's the final stages of the rebuild:

2.9 lump,

fully polished shrick

268 cams,

polished and ported head,

double head gasket,

ARP conrod bolts & head bolts

Lightened & balanced flywheel,

Helix fast road clutch,

VF engine mounts,

and improved nitrous with digital controller

oh yea, and a stage 3 Vortech charger kit c/w intercooler!

and only 1 day to go! engine due to go in tomorrow, then some serious running in, only 1 week to clock up over 1k for USC at santapod...

Any advise / feeback always appreciated - apart from staying off the juice for a few weeks!

1122584238_882_FT0_pic_0041_.jpg

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I don't think 268 cams are suitable for forced induction as you'll lose boost because of the overlap.

Not too sure about the double headgasket (isn't the vf stage 3 designed to run on standard compression?) If you lower compression you'll need a smaller pulley to achieve the same boost which encourages belt slippage. I'd say it's best to leave the compression alone and built the motor strong. If you're going for a big power a vortech v1 or 2 would be better suited.

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I can see why you bought the cams as they go well with the schrick manifold (like you say you weren't at that stage considering the charger) but 248s or 256s are best suited for FI. Otherwise your setup sounds superb. What power are you hoping for?

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Excellent spec there. It's already been said, but the cams may be an issue. I've got 260/264 in mine with no problems.

Hope your gearbox holds out!! You're definately going to need a LSD of some description, either Quaife or Peloquin, otherwise you have 300+ bhp an no forward movement what so ever!

Bigger brakes will be needed too!

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

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My Stage 2 kit is on and I had Vince build me a box in advance of fitting the kit, with Quafie ATB, new synchros (all of them) and bearings, bolted diff, 3.68 final drive etc etc. I'd say you definitely need one with all that power.

Watch people behind you turn to dots as your floor it over motorway intersections with no wheelspin as you drive over the adverse cambers.

You can also get on the power earlier in the bends and it'll sling shot you out.

And one wheel on dirt/snow/ice and the other on tarmac.... well, that's something you're going to have to experience for yourself but it's so effective it's surreal.

And my favourite - two wheelspin tracks on gravel :-)

I'll also be going Stage III once VF have completed the testing (Corrado).

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The Intercooler on the VF-E stage 3 kit is a corner-mount unit, I think. Goes next to the Radiator. You get lots of (shiny) pipes running across the engine bay.

You will definitely need to swap your cams for 248s though. Stealth may be able to do a p/x on your 268s, as these are in higher demand due to more people with n/a VR6s.

You will also need a custom remap, but, God that thing is going to fly!! Could be looking at VR6OC's most powerful car once it's all done!

Is that a Carbon Fibre bonnet btw?

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as i have stated before vw`s biggest weakness and always has been is the gearbox!! (i found out the hard way!) in normal use fine but when your sticking that much grunt through it!!! crash bang wallop internals on the road me thinks?

Yep...they're like butter........from bitter personal experience ;)

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Sticking 300bhp + through a 100K+ old gearbox is the problem. If you rebuild it with bolts, then you won't get diff pins letting go. I've not heard of VR6 boxes losing gear teeth unless subject to abuse and/or excessive engine torque.

If you mod your engine and drive like a tw@t everywhere, then of course components are going to suffer. Treat it with respect and it'll last and last.

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All your points have been taken, and it looks like the gearbox and drive is the next project!, oneday the bodywork will be done, but until then...

Got a lurverly set of silver rose wheels today! mmmmm!1122663873_882_FT71024_shiny_wheels_.jpg

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