Eat this 2 Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 idle is a bit erratic but it never stalls i know my plugs r iffy (being done this week) and the fuellin is probably poor it catches fine but revs drop to 2-300 rpm sometimes it comes back upto 600 and idles but usually cuts out unless u give it a little throttle the cam sensor has been cleaned could realy do with this sortin for saturday as its being mapped then Link to post Share on other sites
mightyvr6 0 Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 blue temp sensor? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 wel try it we were lookin at the 3 temp sensors next to eachother Link to post Share on other sites
mightyvr6 0 Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 have u vag-commed it? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 nope no access to it Link to post Share on other sites
petervr6 0 Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 i have the same prob when its warm its a pig to start ive changed the blue temp sen bu still the same? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 any other ideas?? Link to post Share on other sites
silverline 0 Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 i have the same prob, had it on vag com and it came out with nothing. although they did say the throttle butterfly is 10 degrees too far open at idle or something? they suggested cleaning the isv but guess you cant do that. the throttle on mine needs setting up to which i dont think helps.it could be the engine speed sensor on yours? Link to post Share on other sites
stockers 1 Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 i was told if its hard to start when warm could be gasket/head gasket problemsjust thought i would add a little christmas cheer Link to post Share on other sites
petervr6 0 Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 na mine was done bout 3months ago Link to post Share on other sites
silverline 0 Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 long starts when warm can some times be caused by loss of compression ie past the rings etc, but knowing the vr's are strong in that area i doubt that would be a prob. you could always try a compression test to make sure? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 long starts when warm can some times be caused by loss of compression ie past the rings etc' date=' but knowing the vr's are strong in that area i doubt that would be a prob. you could always try a compression test to make sure?[/quote']iv never had a compression test but im 100% sure my engines a good un !lol i think iv fixed the problem guys gave the throttl;e body a b;loody good squirt with carb cleaner now starts every time Link to post Share on other sites
silverline 0 Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 i ve never come across a car thats so sensitive to a dirty throttle body than a vr!at least its an easy fix. i really should do something with mine, after 93k miles i think it could do with it! Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 silver i had an 8v cav sri b4 the vr and that was a very common fault Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 If OBD2s are struggling with starting and have poor idling, a VAG-COM scan will diagnose the stepper motor in the throttle. They sometimes go, meaning a chunky bill of Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 mine went on vag com with no errors and iv deffo fixed it woooooot now it runs sweet as a nut and pulls all the way up the tacho Link to post Share on other sites
petervr6 0 Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 so would it be worth me changing the fpr then Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2005 it cant hurt have you cleaned your tb though and have u tried reseting it?? Link to post Share on other sites
petervr6 0 Posted December 29, 2005 Report Share Posted December 29, 2005 havent cleaned it na what doe you mean reseting it. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2005 to reset the tb u have to open the drivers dorr (leave it open) then turn the key to ignition without startin the car leave it like this go round to the engine bay and youll hear a high pitch buzzin noise when this stops (usually 10-20 secs but can be upto 2 mins iirc) start the car thats it Link to post Share on other sites
petervr6 0 Posted December 29, 2005 Report Share Posted December 29, 2005 open the bonnet first then do it. Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 You can also force a tb reset using VAG-COM's basic settings. It adjusts itself everytime you turn the ignition on anyway, but to 'harmonise' the tb to the ECU, use VAG-COM. Link to post Share on other sites
silverline 0 Posted January 1, 2006 Report Share Posted January 1, 2006 to reset the tb u have to open the drivers dorr (leave it open) then turn the key to ignition without startin the car leave it like this go round to the engine bay and youll hear a high pitch buzzin noise when this stops (usually 10-20 secs but can be upto 2 mins iirc) start the car thats itthats only for obd2 isnt it? mines an obd1 so i guess it can only be done by vag com? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted January 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2006 to reset the tb u have to open the drivers dorr (leave it open) then turn the key to ignition without startin the car leave it like this go round to the engine bay and youll hear a high pitch buzzin noise when this stops (usually 10-20 secs but can be upto 2 mins iirc) start the car thats itthats only for obd2 isnt it? mines an obd1 so i guess it can only be done by vag com?mine is obd2 i dont kno about obd1 sorry u can always try it though Link to post Share on other sites
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