matth76 1 Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 HiHas anyone got one of these fitted? Did you notice slightly less power in the lower revs but with more power in the higher revs?I have a slight flat spot remaining around 1500-2000revs. Above 3k revs it has a huge surge of power. Just wondered if other people with this modification had noticed the same?CheersMatt Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 i havnt and iv got 268 cams seems about the same or maybe a bit better all through but it pulls right into the raised rev limiter much better than before Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Thanks for your reply. Mine certainly dives for the red line after 3000 revs. Although I am concerned about the flat spot just below 2000 revs. Seems to be around the 1800 revs area, then fine after that. Although I'm finding I have to go down a gear to get into the power band, which I didn't have to before.Anyone with a 6 branch on here? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 what other mods u got it could neeed mapping Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2005 I've got a high flow cat and cat back Milltek. I was told my ECU should learn the new air/fuel settings I recently had the timing chain and head gasket also done plus had my throttle body re-aligned and new lamda sensor put in. I suspect something isn't quite right (hopefully it's not the cam timing as I suspect that would be a big lengthy job to rectify?). Could it be a 'compression' issue with the new head gasket? Is a compression test easy for a garage to do?I'm going to try and book my car in with Stealth when they open in the new year to diagnose the problem. My car seems down on power to how it was before. Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted December 24, 2005 Report Share Posted December 24, 2005 with those mods, then i would suggest a remap.It could be possible that you may have developed a fault, which VAG-COM might be able to identify.Pete Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2005 Thanks for your replies. I suspect it may need a remap too. Initially just after having all the work done there was a much bigger flat spot all the way up to 3000 revs. I took it back to the garage that had done the work and VAG COM determined there was a faulty cam sensor (intermittant fault). The sensor was totally replaced (for free of course) and the fault on VAG COM disappeared. Took the car for a spin with the mechanic and the car was much better. Virtually back to normal although there is still a flat spot remaining (as mentioned above) between 1500-2000 revs. I can feel it especially at roundabouts as though I have a bit of lag - but above 2000 revs it feels much better and above 3000 revs it pulls nice and hard possibly stronger than it used to. With no faults showing up on VAG COM I suspect it is simply a fuel/air flow problem and needs a remap (am I right in assuming the cost is around Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 28, 2005 Report Share Posted December 28, 2005 yep steaqlth do remaps as do mrc tuning who i went to and highly recomend Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted December 28, 2005 Report Share Posted December 28, 2005 yep steaqlth do remaps as do mrc tuning who i went to and highly recomendI'd recommend a Dastek from Stealth, they actually will map your car on a rolling road, which is more accurate.From what I understand, mrc tuning didnt map Eat This VR on a rolling road?P Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2005 Thanks. Can a Dastek be remapped in the future if more mods are added at a later date? Is it a 'uni' or 'piggyback' chip that is soldered onto the standard ecu? Any idea on cost? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted December 28, 2005 Report Share Posted December 28, 2005 yep steaqlth do remaps as do mrc tuning who i went to and highly recomendI'd recommend a Dastek from Stealth' date=' they actually will map your car on a rolling road, which is more accurate.From what I understand, mrc tuning didnt map Eat This VR on a rolling road?P[/quote']no pete they did it on a (private ) road with a laptop measuring 50 million things)stealth are going to learn how to live map the stock ecu which is what mrc do now but they dont have a rr (yet) so its swings and roundabouts Link to post Share on other sites
antera309 3 Posted December 29, 2005 Report Share Posted December 29, 2005 Thanks. Can a Dastek be remapped in the future if more mods are added at a later date? Is it a 'uni' or 'piggyback' chip that is soldered onto the standard ecu? Any idea on cost? Once you have a Dastek fitted, you can remap at any time for the cost of a rolling road session.No soldering is required with the Dastek, it is a complete supplemental ECU that just taps into the main ECU's wiring harness.I paid Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Thanks for your replies guys. So is the slight flat spot I'm experiencing between 1500-2000revs most likely to be fuel/air mixture related and solved by a remap? If it was the cam timing that was out how could I tell or would it be quite a bit more significant than a 'slight' flat spot? Anyone else had a car where the timing was slightly out after having the chains done - what were the symptoms?CheersMatt Link to post Share on other sites
mightyvr6 0 Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I think you mentioned that only the upper chain and tensioner was changed. You might find that the timing is slightly out as there is some chain stretch and wear on the bottom tensioner but I'm not sure this would cause a flatspot in the rev range. Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I was told the bottom tensioners and chain are very unlikely to need replacing. When chains are replaced at around the 100k miles mark it is normally only the upper/top chain and its tensioners that are done. Is this not true?I'm going to speak to Stealth about this. Link to post Share on other sites
mightyvr6 0 Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Usually everything is changed. Not much point pulling everything to bits then doing half a job. The bottom tensioner doesn't wear as much as the top - that is true but it does wear.I only mentioned this as my mate changed all his guides and tensioners (top and bottom) but not the chains and he couldn't get the cams to line up. The conclusion was the chains must have been slightly stretched so he put new ones in and the timing was spot on. Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Could slightly faulty cam timing cause the cam sensor to fail? I had a faulty cam sensor following the work - they cleaned it but it made no difference which was very odd. They replaced it and the fault went away but the flat spot still remains - not quite as bad but still still clearly there.I have to admit I was a bit surprised when they said they hadn't changed the bottom chain but you naturally assume they are the experts so didn't question it. However due to the flat spot which still remains I'm going to get them to check the timing as this is really bugging me. How long would it take for them to check the cam timing? They should do this free of charge though - but it's a real hassle as I'm assuming I'd have to be without my car for at least two days!Is the lower chain easier to change than the top one or does it require the gear box out regardless of which chain is changed? Link to post Share on other sites
Seademon 0 Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 If your doing the chains I would have thought its best to do them all whilst you've got the gearbox etc off - no point in half doing the job, save taking it all apart again. Im no expert but if I have to have mine done I will get everything replaced. Link to post Share on other sites
mightyvr6 0 Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I wonder if they damaged the cam sender wheel when they took the sprocket off the cam. This part should be changed as they have a tendency to break. Stealth would have changed this part and the lower chains and tensioners.BTW matth76 I'm not saying that this issue with the timing chains is causing your flat spot. I'm not sure if it would or not, just offering a possible cause.I suppose your garage would check the timing by removing the intake manifold and cam cover and checking if the cams line up. Probably no more than a couple of hours labour. Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 Thanks. How easy is it to replace the cam sender wheel? Is this a lengthy job? So Stealth do the bottom chain and tensioners too then? What approx cost would it be for Stealth to do just the bottom chain and its tensioners? Link to post Share on other sites
RIX 0 Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 i have just had my engine rebuild,around 110kmiles,the lower guide had a peice broken off,so when they say they dont wear thats crap,and both tensors where totaly finished.got some off the old part with me home. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 i have just had my engine rebuild' date='around 110kmiles,the lower guide had a peice broken off,so when they say they dont wear thats crap,and both tensors where totaly finished.got some off the old part with me home.[/quote']it seems to be pot luck i had my chains done as they sounded crap to me turns out they were ok (changed them anyway) mine had 85k on it then Link to post Share on other sites
RIX 0 Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 then its likely the olie pump,mine stop chating when i bought a new pump and that olie preussur thing on the back of the engine. Link to post Share on other sites
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