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Killokiller seems like a very good VR specialist. My advice to anyone is just to avoid Storm!

kilokila is good because

1 he knows what hes doing

2 he bends over backwards to make sure ur happy

3 (most important imo and a huge reason i dont like dealers) hes an enthusiast and when u give him the keys u know hel look after ur pride and joy

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Well first off just like to say Hello. I'm a newcomer to the VR but not to Dubs, I'm 27 and live in Stoke. I've got a nice K plate Dusty Mauve Golf VR with Full History but it's on 165k. The engine was fully rebuilt by Dubsport 38k ago, now my Worry is though that you guys are telling me it should be totally silent, well it's not, there is a definate audible chain noise, well what I would presume as a chain noise, should I be worried about this ???? Don't want to sound like a wet lemon but the charges for repairs on VR's a scaring me a little lol.

I only picked it up last night and already had the AA tow me home, not due to the car but the Toad immoboliser staying on, ripped wiring out tonight gave them a wiggle and now it starts lol ??? get it seen to tomorrow I suppose cause now when I pop it in reverse sometimes the mileage readout will go off and show me 10 - 02 and I get a couple of the red dash lights on ????

Could someone also tell me what temps are normal for the Vr and how quickly they would reach temp as I drove it back from Sutton Coldfield yesterday and had a whip round last night and ca't remember the temp getting any where over the 70 but today after all the immob probs etc I did 4 laps round my estate normal driving and it was up to about 90 and fan cutting in.

I am very sorry for the very long winded post but as you can guess I'm wondering whether I made the right decision in changing from Dub 4 cylinder to 6 Cylinder.

Thanks for listening.

Nige

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Yep' date=' should be completely silent post fitment of new parts.

[/quote']

This is me parts list so far pleas feel free to comment if i've missed anything off

Chain Upper 021 109 503 D

Tensioner Upper Rail Guide 021 109 509 C

Slide Rail Upper Guide 021 109 513

Upper Tensioner Bolt 021 109 467

Chain Lower 021 109 465 B

Tensioner Lower Rail Guide 021 109 467

Slide Rail Lower Guide 021 109 469

Main Oil Seal 068 198 171

Genuine Clutch 021 198 141 AX

Rocker Cover Gasket 021 103 483 D

Can i change the slide rail upper guide with part No. 021 109 509 E

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Nice one mate, I'll pop it down, I've got another funny one this morning, aftre the AA frigged around with it and me ripping dash apart to sort immob I've driven it to work this morning and it feels like it's missing, really underpowered but if you plant your foot it drives through and goes like normal, come to a stop and it's like it's hunting, up and down 200rpm ???

I'm born to worry so excuse me if I sound a bit gay lolol.

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  • 2 months later...

OK, there's no need for mudslinging here, Gents. We all know that views expressed here are personal opinions and that's all. Everyone has misunderstandings & disagreements with suppliers and mechanics from time to time. 99 times out of 100 it is better to attempt to resolve such disputes with the supplier/mechanic directly before leaving "negative feedback" on Internet forums.

The facts are this - "Doing the chains" means replacing ALL of the following parts:

1) Upper chain.

2) Upper chain guide.

3) Upper chain tensioner plate.

4) Upper chain tensioner bolt.

5) Lower chain.

6) Lower chain guide.

7) Lower chain tensioner assembly.

As listed on SankysVR6's post. Upper chain part numbers are specific to OBD1/OBD2 cars, but lower chain parts are common to both.

You must make sure that ALL of these parts have been replaced. Rattles can be caused by a failure of ANY of the above, so obviously they can remain if anything is left out.

It normally makes economic sense to replace the clutch and crankshaft end oil seal at the same time as the chain parts, as these parts have to be removed anyway to get to the lower chain parts. However, if your clutch has already been replaced recently, there's no point paying for another one! It all depends.

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It seems to me that the Garage might have advised to do the clutch at the same time as the chains, but as he couldn't stretch his budget for the new clutch. Why didn't they advise about the bottom chains, it seems to me that the garage couldn't be bothered to take the gearbox out just for the bottom chains

How could they have showed him "all the tensioners" when they only changed the tensioner bolt?

And there's nothing wrong with haggling on the price as the saying goes "if you don't ask you don't get"

Just because you knock someone down on price shouldn't mean your paying for a 3rd rate job. If the price depended on their quality of work involved they should have stuck to their guns with the price for there own reputation

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Why didn't they advise about the bottom chains' date=' it seems to me that the garage couldn't be bothered to take the gearbox out just for the bottom chains

[/quote']

That's the point. Any garage worth their salt should REFUSE to replace the upper chain parts without doing the lower ones as well, even if the Customer specifically asks them to do this.

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