magentaham 0 Posted February 17, 2006 Report Share Posted February 17, 2006 The intermediate shaft in the VR6 (Runs the oil pump drive) has two bushings. The only way to buy these bushings is to take a gold bar to VAG and buy a whole engine block. The part numbers are #021 521 9583 & #026 501 3488. Could I impose on one of you in the UK to call your local VAG parts store and see if they may be purchased over there?? These are US part numbers and may be different in the UK. They are not shown on the US parts cd. I took the numbers off the bushings. Link to post Share on other sites
richievr 1 Posted February 17, 2006 Report Share Posted February 17, 2006 ok mate - here is the uk parts slide for the oil pump and shafts - i can see no bushings for the oil pump shafts ...i have checked the numbers you posted and can make no sense of them unfortunately.....it is VERY unusual for us (UK) to be able to get hold of anything U.S. spec unfortunately...i have assumed you have the 12v vr6 engine not the newer 24v version ...good luck .. Link to post Share on other sites
magentaham 0 Posted February 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2006 We'll go into a little more detail. Early VR (92-95) had a oil filter with a bypass valve spot welded in the center of the filter. Several of the cars I've played with had very bad engine failures when the bypass valve pops off and gets pushed (with oil pressure)into the outbound oil galley. Because the oil warning senders are on the oil filter houseing the driver never knows there is no oil getting to the engine. Toast!!! I'm in the process of overhauling one of those engines. To make a long story short the engine ran long enough to destroy the two bushings. My parts cd has the same info as yours. (it shows no bushings for #1 shaft) From everything I've read, you guys (and girls) in the UK have axcess to parts not available in the US. (like kick butt headlights ect) The part #'s I posted came right off the bushings, stamped on the steel back. Makes overhaul that much more of a headache when you have to toolup your own parts!! Thanks for the reply!! Link to post Share on other sites
richievr 1 Posted February 20, 2006 Report Share Posted February 20, 2006 now that is interesting..mine (MARCH94) has a problem in the morning when totally cold. there is a "clanking" noise which ONLY occurs when stone cold and only lasts about 15 - 20 seconds..i am sure it is oil pressure related as if you raise the revs from tickover(850) up to about 1600 (hence increasing oil pressure)it goes away ..when the revs come back down the noise comes back . . . . .BUT when the engine has been running more than about 20 seconds the noise disappears totally at all revs and does not return until the next day when the engine is totally cold......which makes me wonder if it could possibly be oil temperature related ...... as the oil gets hotter it gets thinner therefore getting in where it should better and stopping the noise.....any ideas???? Link to post Share on other sites
magentaham 0 Posted February 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2006 Some more detail...there are 2 oil pressure fed plungers(pistons if you will) one at the head, one just up from the crank bolted to the block. The one at the head is usually the noise. After your car sits for a period of time(usually 4 or more hours) the piston will bleed off. This allows the upper chain tensioner to flap in the breeze when you start your car. That short period of time is just how long it takes to build pressure again taking up the slack. Now mind you this is not bad. If you have had your chains replaced, usually you dont change the tensioner piston. If its a problem you can do it without much fuss. Pull up parts detail on timming chains, you can see it.(big nut looken thing, back of head firewall side). My corrado's tensioner foot went away at 119630.I replaced them and not the slack pistons, I have quite alot of noise on cold start up. Also, as with everything VW, its not a give away, I haven't figured our exchange rate yet but about $45.00USD. I wouldn't fret if your chains are good. Link to post Share on other sites
richievr 1 Posted February 21, 2006 Report Share Posted February 21, 2006 that was my first thought.....i have recently changed the top chain tensioner and given it another oil and filter change but it has not helped at all unfortunately..this is why i have been looking along the lines of oil pressure or the possibility of temperature/thickness.... Link to post Share on other sites
magentaham 0 Posted February 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2006 Some questions....How many miles(km) on yours? Any idea what your oil pressure actually is? Corrados (most of them)have a gauge. (0-10 bar) I honestly don't know what UK cars have for gauges. US VW's... fuel and coolent temp. Somtimes a gauge cluster with MAF but not many of them around. Link to post Share on other sites
richievr 1 Posted February 22, 2006 Report Share Posted February 22, 2006 mine has just gone over 100k miles ,i haven't had the oil pressure checked yet, but i may have to get it done soon..trouble is i have to get it checked when the car is totally cold otherwise the noise is not present...may have to leave it at work and do it first thing one morning ....... Link to post Share on other sites
magentaham 0 Posted February 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 You know I'd just love to help you sort it out, but we have a big pond between us. Makes for an interesting drive to get to my shop. However, I can tell you what I've had to do on several VR's at 100K+. Including my own. The oil pump. The pump doesn't actually fail but the relief valve wears in the cavity in the lower part of the pump. I have no less than 6 pumps with junk relief valves. They don't pump enough pressure on startup to even pressure up the lifters. More rpm, more pressure, quiets dowm. My corrado with 177K had 3.5 bar on cold start up I figured probably bearings. (I don't drive nice, I make the corado earn its supper) Pop the oil pan, pop off some rod caps, main caps....no big deal. Pop off the pump, pull it apart. Rotors good, housing is good, not making metal, where's the oil pressure?? Took me about 2 hourss and the teardown of 3 more used oil pumps to actually find the wear in the relief. If I ever figure out how to post pictures Ill show you. Anyway VW only sells a complete oil pump.($280.00 US) The end of the story?? Cold start up with 5w-30 mobil one, 7 bar.(about 105psi) I still have some noise on start up...for about 2 sec. The other problem I get into with high mile VW is lifter noise. Sometimes the little pigs just will not pump up. Oil pump is my first choice. Cures the problems 95% of the time. The other 5% is a bitch!!! I hate to pull cams. Mind you, I'm not suggesting you run out and get a new pump. A good pressure test will remove any doubt. Sorry to be so long winded... Link to post Share on other sites
richievr 1 Posted February 24, 2006 Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 thanks otto man...have been a great help - fortunately for me i work in a vw garage so having it looked at is no probs ...hopefully i can get sorted asap..... Link to post Share on other sites
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