removing pistons without removing engine. HELP!

[VRmonster 1]

im stripping out all of my pistons as i've had a few problems with my build during tuning. but i dont want to take the block out or the front end off to do so.

i know i can get them out with only the head off but how awkward am i going to find it? also the problem is that to get to all of the rod bolts i will probs need to turn the engine a little, but doing this with the head off will throw the timing and i wont be able to get back in at the intermediate shaft sprocket to adjust the chain again. any advice on how to do this. do i leave the head on to turn the engine then losen the rods, and the then set the cams to TDC (i have the tool) and take off the chain sprockets and strap em up. then remove the head, or is that a bad way. any advice is greatly appreciated.

also, where can i get the best quality head gasket from, reinz is the way to go i hear, is that available at VW?

matt.

[jaysVR6 2]

Bloddy hell mate. And I thought you would have know that after our little discussion!!!

[VRmonster 1]

i do actually know how to do it, i was just fishing for more ideas because its such a tedious job with the engine in, and wanted to find an easier way of keeping the timing other than having to set it again afterwards, but im going the long way round it now so it dont matter anyway.

[jaysVR6 2]

It does seem to be a massive job, much more skills than I have!

If I did know mate I would deffo return the shared knowledge you gave me

[FishWick 21]

Yep, VW HGs are Victor Reinz.... or if in doubt get one from stealth as they use Reinz ones.

On the timing front, personally I would take all the pistons out and reset the timing from scratch afterwards. Set the intermediate sprocket to 12 O'clock with Piston 1 at TDC and the timing mark on the crank pulley lined up with the dimple on the block. You can find true TDC by rotating the crank and on cyl 1, find the middle dwell point where the piston neither moves up nor down. It's hard to explain but it's obvious when doing it, but the crank pulley mark is where you want to be. With that set and the inter' shaft point north, you're good to go with the cam timing, which is a peice of P as you know.

You can see the inter' shaft alignment buy shining a light into the crank case TDC hole and using a surgical mirror mate, I've done that before with success. There is a one large hole in the inter' shaft that you can see through and reveals a bolt behind it, but I'd mark the Inter' shaft position first before stripping the head with tippex which will make your life easier later on.

If it's off, suspend the chains to remove the slack and turn the crank until it lines up with your tippex mark (long thin brush needed!).

When done, turn the engine over with the crank sensor disconnected a few times to and recheck the timing. I think you'll be OK, just need to take your time and be methodical. If you struggle with that you may need to remove the box

Or...call Vince or Graham at Stealth and they can talk you through it.

[magentaham 0]

Kev's got it right! Just one thing though, as far as crank timming goes. Your crank and intermedate shaft are timed 1 to 1. Doesnt matter how many times you turn the crank, at top dead #1 the inter shaft is always on perfect time, now if during whatever you're doing you remove the lower chain then you have to do the whole setup again. As Kev said, front pully on the dot, #1 piston at dead stop top of the hole, or timming pointer on flywheel to pointer on bellhousing, lock the cams put it together. Also remember the connecting rods have indents on the big end.(in other words a front and a rear) Make sure they go back together EXACTLY the way they came out.(you probably knew that)