Jump to content

supercharger

24karat

By 24karat,
in Engine Tuning

 Share Followers 0

Recommended Posts

delete-me

delete-me 1

Posted
Posted

Its four diffrent places that have sold alot off VR6 Superchargers.

http://www.z-engineering.com/

http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/product_card.asp?PageNo=PRODUCTCARD&Item=++++++++AMS%2E10%2E300%2EB

http://www.vf-engineering.com/

http://www.c2motorsports.net/

AND you have some guys from Sweden, putting on Rotrex charger on the VR6.. They deliver without any chip, and its pretty expensive :S

Here is a clip from a friend off mine with Rotrex on a OBD1: (6) (6)

Btw: The car have a Peloquin diff. ;)

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/VR6+rotrex/0/564B35F7-A914-486A-8278-A617CB996CB8.htm

They all use the same Vortech charger, exept for Z-Engineering. They use their own selfmade charger. I have a Z-eng ZR2, and its very realible and easy to live with (f) . EBAY is the best option for VR6 supercharging. ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites
24karat

24karat 0

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what is the z-engineering kit like? Was it expensive to buy / install? Is it reliable? What was your mileage when you first got the kit? I'm a bit confused whether to go for the vortech stage 2 or the custom Storm developments 350bhp kit... What's the power increase with yours?

Link to post
Share on other sites
jaysVR6

jaysVR6 2

Posted
Posted

You'll never get over 300bhp with a Z charger. My ZR 2 is running on a new 2.9 engine and I reckon it's no more than 270hp. I may get a little more with a decent exhaust and cams but nowhere near the kind of power available from a Vortech charger due to the available pulleys and the gearbox thats in a Vortech.

Baring in mind a Vortech will cost you nearly twice as much to buy than a Z. Both as reliable as eachother.

Link to post
Share on other sites
J5KE F

J5KE F 0

Posted
Posted

now now people, surely the right pulley on any charger with a decent map and mods can supply suitable power gains?

i got 330 from a v9 with stage 5 pulley gettin on 13 psi when the belt doesnt slip!

Link to post
Share on other sites
jaysVR6

jaysVR6 2

Posted
Posted

You can't change the pulley on a ZR2 (except for machining it down) and I've had mine boost tested at 6.5psi. There would be no point lowering the compression as the charger doesn't produce enough boost to do any damage. Lower the compression with 6 psi the car will produce less hp no?

Simey, I don't see how that spec list you sent me would produce over 300bhp. And what did you mean by lowering compression to 2.8?

Standard compression is ok for 12-13psi I believe (a standard Z only produces half that boost), any more and you will need a comp ratio of around 9.0:1 if I'm correct. Even 8:5:1 for huge boost; but why not run less boost and higher compression = reliable good power?

Plus for over 300bhp you'd need extra fueling i'm sure. Stock injectors are at max capacity around 260-270bhp, you didn't mention this in your list.

I'm just interested in how your car is set up to produce this kind of power.

Link to post
Share on other sites
simey

simey 0

Posted
Posted

It has bigger injectors and been re-mapped Uni-chip, I know what your saying about lower compression ratios. A lower ratio means you can put more boost through, higher ratio a little less. A standard engine with mods and a charger doesn't last for ever (approx 1yr) but my VR is on track and used harder than most on the road thus life span reduced. The engine now has been built to take track driving.

Vince at Stealth was surprised that it made over 300bhp after bigger injectors/another re-map/6 branch were done as the engine was producing around the 280 mark which is about right.

Link to post
Share on other sites
mightyvr6

mightyvr6 0

Posted
Posted

It was never the plan to get over 300bhp but it did' date=' no bull either!!

[/quote']

Yeah, you've said this before but never give any details. Wonder why?

Wonder why, jealous??

I'm not bothered as I've sold me s/c setup but I'm sure others would like to know. You still haven't provided any proper information/details. You say its not b*llshit but where's the evidence? How about some dyno plots?

Link to post
Share on other sites
jaysVR6

jaysVR6 2

Posted
Posted

Come on guys' date=' chill it out, we all that Vince is the Daddy, especially with these MAF-less maps he's doing and all!

It wont be long before he's bigging mine over 300BHP ;)

[/quote']

I beg to differ there Pete. After Vince mapped my Charger without the MAF it ran like a complete slag. Jibby as hell with a flat spot around 2-3k and he was adiment the timing was out and told me it was only making 200bhp. I know these MAFless remaps do work, but I have real issues as to what he has done to my car. I know for a fact it was making 190bhp before the charger. A 10bhp gain with the charger?!! Work that one out.

I have had the engine apart since then and had the timing checked and it was NOT out. If it was out it would mean I was making around 140ish bhp (if that!) after my engine rebuild and I would have noticed that!!

Vince told me that I was NOT to plug the MAF back in when I took it away but my mechanic said why the F**K was it unplugged? And I explained to him what Vince had done. He plugged it in and my car was almost twice as powerful and the differance was instantly noticable and no flat spots. I know its still not quite right and I will be making a trip back to Stealth to get him to sort it. One thing is for sure, I wont be giving him any more money to put it right. £400 for a map that isn't right is not good enough in my book.

I know he has this all singing all dancing Italian software but I really think he could have spent more time on my car, it all seemed a little rushed in my opinion. For him to say the timing was out has caused some real issues and headaches not to mention alot of wasted time and money.

I have had to take a step back from what has happend and also save some money for another trip down to Stealth. When he opens back up I am booked in for him to get it right.

Link to post
Share on other sites
aad

aad 0

Posted
Posted

Mine as got to be the least powerful s/c vr on this forum but had s/c on 5yr,s been great only done the 1 r/r stealth 260bhp 229lbs torque mines supposed to have a z chip in it.

but the car is so smooth right through rev range i wish they still made z s/c in the different stages, mine is also a zr1 and never had belt slippage,

dont like the sound of the maf being off maybe they run better that way with the vortechs.

i may go for a shrick for the torque and thats it but other wise my engine is stock it's nice to get in my vr and have no running issues.

btw hope you get your motor sorted jay .

Link to post
Share on other sites
simey

simey 0

Posted
Posted

Dynoplots before were after a rebuild and running in 5000rpm the power graph isan't smooth due to running lean. The following work was done larger injectors, uni chip re-map & 6 branch manifold fitted and these results are the dynoplots after.

Dynoplots

For miles per smile "aad" has the right idea, keeping it simple..

Link to post
Share on other sites
aad

aad 0

Posted
Posted

simey some nice figures there.

i suppose if i did want to get near the 300 mark there is hope

i'm only 40 bhp short ;) i am running stock engine'' i never doubted you :)

keeping it simple does make life easy with the vr and money in my pocket is nice to. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
mightyvr6

mightyvr6 0

Posted
Posted

Come on guys' date=' chill it out, we all that Vince is the Daddy, especially with these MAF-less maps he's doing and all!

It wont be long before he's bigging mine over 300BHP ;)

[/quote']

I beg to differ there Pete. After Vince mapped my Charger without the MAF it ran like a complete slag. Jibby as hell with a flat spot around 2-3k and he was adiment the timing was out and told me it was only making 200bhp. I know these MAFless remaps do work, but I have real issues as to what he has done to my car. I know for a fact it was making 190bhp before the charger. A 10bhp gain with the charger?!! Work that one out.

I have had the engine apart since then and had the timing checked and it was NOT out. If it was out it would mean I was making around 140ish bhp (if that!) after my engine rebuild and I would have noticed that!!

Vince told me that I was NOT to plug the MAF back in when I took it away but my mechanic said why the F**K was it unplugged? And I explained to him what Vince had done. He plugged it in and my car was almost twice as powerful and the differance was instantly noticable and no flat spots. I know its still not quite right and I will be making a trip back to Stealth to get him to sort it. One thing is for sure, I wont be giving him any more money to put it right. £400 for a map that isn't right is not good enough in my book.

I know he has this all singing all dancing Italian software but I really think he could have spent more time on my car, it all seemed a little rushed in my opinion. For him to say the timing was out has caused some real issues and headaches not to mention alot of wasted time and money.

I have had to take a step back from what has happend and also save some money for another trip down to Stealth. When he opens back up I am booked in for him to get it right.

I agree with you. I don't think the mafless remap is quite what it's cracked up to be. Mine ran a lot better with the maf in place and now I think it's a bad move to run without the maf. The power was fine but all the smoothness was taken away and the economy was quite frankly rubbish. Definitely needs some fine tuning. If you spend that kind of money you expect it to be absolutely spot on.

Link to post
Share on other sites
FishWick

FishWick 21

Posted
Posted

The only issue with losing the MAF is fuel trimming for this time of year. You lose 10 fuel usable blocks. Mine was mapped without a MAF in the winter but now that summer is upon us, the engine feels less lively than before, but only slightly. I can't say I can really notice a big difference between the mafless and maf maps. It's just nice to not have the thing there blowing hot and cold all the time and upsetting the trimming. Performance is a damn site more consistent without the MAF and making a solid 290 with 260 pounds off 8psi.

The MAFless thing came about because Jake's car wouldn't even run with a MAF with his setup and it's thanks to Vince's tenacity and dedication to helping us charged boys out that he sussed it out and got Jake's car running, so credit where it's due. These kits are still work in progress and we're having to iron out the short comings.

What Vince is also finding is not all charged engines behave the same way. Mine for instance started and ran perfectly with Jake's map, then he fine tuned it accordingly. On other cars the same base map just won't run. It's not a simple job and I wish I knew half of what he does when it comes to mapping.

My mate's 3.1 Rado is making 338hp with 312lbs without a MAF, so there's definitely logic to it.

When my Schimmel and IC are fitted, we will be trialling a MAP sensor remap, which should be cool.

The only way to truly get the most from these engines is with a standalone, such as the DTA P8PRO, but you're looking at 1K for the box + £350 for the loom + setup and it's not waterproof, so has to go inside the car. And further more, no standalone can run a stepper throttle, so OBD2 boys are stuffed..... it's all a game of trial and error.

So, give it time, Vince WILL perfect these installs ;-)

Link to post
Share on other sites
 Share
Followers 0
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...