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hey guys My name is nay i am 21 and from manchester ! my family has always been into vw's and its kind of bit me from a young age i have owned a mk1 polo , 2 mk3 polos (one witch i drive daily) and a mk2 golf aswell witch u still own, I have been on here for a while so thought i would post up my project , the car was being driven daily upto 2009 by my brother witch sadly pasted away , so rather than sell the car it was passed down to me and has been sat for nearly 6 years ! its a shame its been sat so long but work commitments and money issues ! mainly down to the insurance 8000£ for third

Thought I'd do a write up for a 256mm conversion as I've just done one to my mk3 and finding answers wasn't the easiest. What you'll need. 256mm brake set up. Discs, pads, carrier, calliper. Probably from a mk4 golf. Polo 9n stub axles - PN 6Q0 501 117 Polo 9n rear hubs - PN 6Q0 598 611 Banjo type brake lines Next part, you can either saw off the axle spacers from a polo 9n like I did, pictures below, with the rough edge milled flat. Or you can buy lupo gti axle spacers. P/N are 6E0501465A for left and 6E0501466A for right. You'll will also need longer stub axle bolts and longer calliper c

I sure do

I've had to get someone els to take my son to a birthday party and told my mrs I'm going shopping for her birthday present Waiting for the next obstacle

Rust:- bottom of the front wings, on the sills right by the bottom of the front wings, the wings collect crap off the rd and rot and that spreads to the sills. Also there's what look like drain bungs on the floor pan and they tend to rot also. The tailgate and bottom of the doors, sometimes top of windscreen and finally rear arches. Is that all of the car? [emoji2]

My new vr6 purchased last week after selling my mulberry highline 5 door 2 weeks ago [emoji4]

Hi Guys, Just browsing the net for a new ride! getting bored of my 3rd diesel in a row after owning GTI & VR's. Skoda Superb Elegance (+L&K) DSG is great but just got the Mrs a 61 reg Touran 1.6 DSG... So I no longer need a diesel. Looking to P/X or sell and get a V6... Its either bk to old skool with a Mk2 Vr6 or Mk3 Vr6 or go for a mk4/5 R32... ( budget is around 5k, dont wanna spend every penny i have on a car. I have a small family and business to run which are getting bigger) I dont wanna splash out on this new car or be taking it to the garage every 3 months for repairs... S

Well as I used to work in a parts shop and got lots of free time and the wavetrac got me thinking as it occupied me for a while I can get some things bit cheaper as a group buy Things like brakes pads discs brake lines Some suspension kits etc Some single orders can be made still with a competitive price sometimes Not forgeting new alloy wheels tyre packages What you guys think?

Need a mk3 golf gti or vr6 fuel lines asap Close to bedfordshire as possible can collect.

Right guys the club stand is booked. Just waiting for confirmation from paul

Alright Russ I'm gonna sort a stand for this just waiting for the fitted uk guys to get in touch

Work in progress always welcome with us (our cars are never finished anyway) Will start a list off later :)

Well the mk3 golf subframe is the same I think to the vr but I think wishbones and drive shaft lengths will be slightly different as the mk3 gti 16v and vr6 have a wider track. To do a 288mm (odb2) brake conversion you'd have to go 5 stud. Like I say the easiest way for me would be to get everything complete on the vr subframe and just bolt it all in to your shell. I'm not sure if the corrado subframe is the same. I'd imagine it is. I'm sure someone will jump in and say otherwise

I had to get the brackets in the mk3 floor cut off and mk4 ones welded in.

Welcome along mate. Best get some pics of this Rado you have posted mate, it's like porn to the boss ^^^^ lol

Yes crank is forged - there is a difference between a Nitrided, Forged 4340 knife-edged, lightened and balanced crank and a factory forged crank though - forged means just the way it is manufactured, material spec and manufacturing aspects like Nitriding is where the durability comes from. Rods need doing as well as pistons on a high boost build - any VR6 engine will see you past 1000hp if need be, doesn't matter on the number of valves or displacement - I would just get a 12V engine and spend the money saved on the internals personally, or perhaps a 24v 2.8 motor for it's ME ecu. Engine w

Yeah there is a buyers guide on here that mentions badges, centre console and so on for high line v standard.

Welcome to the club mate let's see your corrado pictures !

When/if I get a VR6, I won't be building it to be worth more in the in the future, I'd build it the way I want it to look. Though I will never buy cosmetic car parts from halfords.

No mate chrome halfords special ones aren't better!! Lol! It's little bits like that, that if still there and intact will make the car be more original and worth more in years to come.

Welcome to the club mate. I think many of us are guilty of pumping dollar into our toys without giving it a thought. Lol. I just don't tell the misses. Haha.

Naturally you should put your own health first before the car, but if you still get enjoyment out of driving it then worth keeping if you can get those jobs sorted. the body work will cost the lot, but as long as it is mechanically sound then you can still enjoy it and send to bodyshop to fix up the body?

I just bought the handbrake gaiter and the bracket for fixing the console to the car for £70. That means my us spec console has cost me £190 all in. Crazy! I'll post a pic of my bracket once it arrives.

My Mk1 VR Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had a wicked sunset last night.