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Is it definitely the controller? Good way to test is 1) clear faults and turn ignition off 2) lift rear seats, you will see a couple of cables going to rear wheel wells and the connectors around the middle, these will be the ABS sensors 3) swap them over 4) turn on ignition and check vcds for errors, if the same sensor is showing as faulty it's likely the controller (as you just swapped them) It is possible to remove controller only but you need to be careful of bending and breaking the brake lines. Once off send to BBA reman, mine lasted for 4+ years and should still be going as Dave cw now

have a 2.8 one but only 20 miles south from daveyboy

I'll have a 2.9 up for sale soon. I'm a decent drive from you tho. I'm up in Newcastle

Back on the ground finally just little bit of welding some wiring and then a remap and a new maf, I took it for a drive for the first time I never got past second gear but it pulls like crazy! Ps I didn't break any laws it's a private road I drove on lol

Interior is taking shape now.

ARP and a spacer will comfortably handle that amount of power if your engine is sound - tensioner depends on the thickness/compression of the set up; http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/41681-vr6-turbo-question-spacer/ Both thickness and number are different for the VR/R32 studs, this is a very low boost set-up/goal so why fork out for things like R32 head when it's not needed?

Ok I'm going to be tackling ASAP

There is a seam weld where the panels join underneath the rear lights which tends to rust through and let water in , if you take the rear bumper off you will be able to check this - only 6 10mm bolts from memory ! Or just remove your carpet under the lights and check for holes

I'd say yes it will change the preformance, by how much I'm unsure. Any extra pipe work cause more drag at the same air velocity. Plus It almost like a bottle neck, or reducer before the turbo. But if it make it run, and is a vital part of the setup, I'd fit it and see how it runs. I'd also say vapor blasting may be not aggressive enough to smooth out the metal on the inside. Media blasting would be best bet. Or buy a cheap sand blast gun if you have a compressor and use cheap BnQ or wickes sand. And give it a good hot wash afterwards.

I picked mine up off a breaker as they looked better than mine

There like the OZ's that came on the lancia delta intergrale

With regards to supercharger v's turbo... A few things to look consider. * with turbo, you will require more internal work unless running lower boost. * Guarantee if you have a SC VR6 and then jump into a VR6T you will instantly want a turbo * Generally costs more money for a good turbo kit (Stealth Racing for example). * Super charging is generally less stressful to the engine than turbo. I've just got a V1 with an upgraded pulley, injectors etc... and should give some power.