Leaderboard

Err, I used to use frozen solid above but been a while - they'll give you a quote dep on cogs/parts, if they have to strip box etc - used to have the details on their sites but it seems to have changed now - factor a couple of hundred I suppose sending them cogs n shafts. Few years though. Ask them what they charge for stripping box and see if they can check the state of your parts. Just because the stock box is taking 200lb/ft doesn't mean it'll blow the first time you put it at 400lb/ft - you can only tell for sure if you strip it and look at it plus cryo/heat treatment is about toughen

Sounds good, not hanging about then? Nice reliable base to build from.

Went to my local pirtek branch to make up my oil lines as didn't have correct tools here to do the job and wanted peace of mind [emoji106]🏻 They have done a great job and only £38 - I supplied the lines and they supplied fittings.

Your on the two seater pal. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji106]

[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] cheers Pete. Carl get my side warmed up. No spooning either [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

Finally thought I'd get on here and confirm I'm going to be coming along

Ok change in direction! Going N/A keeping it simple for track use.

Never had the need to strip mine back to basics, all I've ever done is pop the pistons out so far as to be able to give them a good clean using methylated spirits and very fine scotch brite on the pistons and then smear rubber grease round them and push them back in. I remember a few years ago now though having to replace the seals in the rear caliper on my GSXR 600 as it had seized up, thoroughly cleaned out the recess for the seals put in a light smear of rubber grease, and then carefully put the seals in, then light smear of rubber grease on the piston and used a G clamp to carefully push

I like the first one with fire

Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way; 1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" - are the teeth worn too much? Can someone or you do a check on the state of your box? Using perhaps dyes or other such techniques? A poor base means a bad start! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html 2. "Can I afford someone to modify the strength of my box?" - if so, how? Assuming it's too expensive to manufa

Not sure with bearings dude as I havent touched the bottom end. If your going the full hog a nice little mod would also be to fit the mk5 R32 sump, oil pump and pick up from the BUB or BDB engine. If you throw it into corners hard quite regularly. It has plastic inserts which act as windage and surge baffles. Works a treat and bolts right onto any 12 or 24V VR6 engine. The MK5 sump sits slightly above the subframe wishbone bolts, so in theory the s/frame should kiss the ground first. Just something for you to think about pal. Not sure on what turbo yet but quite like the precision f

You know, i'm not convinced that the ar makes that much of a difference on box breaking, the math/physics doesn't add up. Shock of slip to grip exerts far more force and modulation of that force would be better and on things like an 02M there are angular aspects to take note of. 02A and the like it's when it grips 4th/5th usually and that can depend on boost level, tyres, turbo bearing system etc. There's also material used as stock, the degree of heat treatment or hairline fractures of your stock box etc hence cryo treatments - there are far too many things to do with the box/drivetrain that

I think I'm going for the Garret GT3582R with a 1.06 ar for a later spool to help the gearbox haha , what bearings are a good buy? Seeing as ive got time want to try and make it right and put some decent main and big ends on it, any suggestions?

Looking forward to seeing this up and running dude. What turbo are you going for? This might give me some determination to finish mine off. Haha [emoji106][emoji106]

Gutted for you mate, like you said it not common for a camshalf to snap in the middle like that. I wouldn't be impressed either, hopefully they will replace shaft for free.

Hey cheers man for the input, I've been looking into it and like you say it's probably worth it in the end by giving such a tighter ride and quality.. I think I may shop around and see what sorts of deals I can get further down the road once I have my corrado up and running.. [emoji108]

I thought exactly the same as you, very expensive and certainly for things you can't see. Thought long and hard about it, but after getting seriously p**sed off with bangs, clangs and crashes on the suspension driving on our sh*t British roads I thought it was time something was done. I did think for a very short while (about 3 seconds) about writing to my local council to ask them to fix the roads as after all I pay £230 a year road TAX......... Anyhoo, went a head and got front an rear poly bushed, and if truth be known the difference is outstanding, nice smooth ride with no clangs, bangs e

I've changed the crank sensor and no luck. But i had it running and bumped some wires between the fan and trans and it cut off. So I'm thinking it's a short.

Hi guys new to the group this is my mk2 gti with a vr6 conversion , it's been my daily project for the last 18 months , look forward to meeting other vr6 owners at gti Spring fest

Off the ground for the last time, the next time this touches the floor it will be drove to stealth!