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hi, normal spacers i believe are just a cork head gasket split over a mk4 metal gasket so unless you start stacking them you wont get a thicker one which i cant see being a good idea? i think the skimming is done in thousandths of a mm as well so how much will a '000 mm affect compression, not a great deal as far as i can see. when you say forged pistons do you mean low comp? if they are low comp then you wont need a spacer anyway. what power do you want? i know people running with 300 charged with just a spacer and standard pistons and i think that most chargers run out of steam ar

wow cOOk mate,,some really nice work you've done there,fair play....some top mods as well,you must be well pleased with it,and your black vr is the biz!!....i don't mind having a rummage on that one come the weekend.......

I must admit gold looked well on your oak green mk2 vr

Thanks lads for all the advice it worked had a day out yesterday in that lovely weather and vr was great no buzzer had replaced them oil sensors and all Is great again there was a little nut above them that was leaking aswell thanks again.

Hi peeps, thought I'd join up as looks like a info packed forum!Pic of my carS

Hi Rich Thanks for the advice mate really appreciate it, ill have a word and see what he says

Looks smart, like the wheels. Nice colour too

Cheers buddy, yeah it not a bad car now the reconditioned engine is in. It's just my run about.

I may be tempted to go light gold with the polished dish.. As daveyboy says they looked really well against my mk2 being oak green, to be fair dragon green isn't too far away..

Light gold? might suit the dragon green. [emoji41]

Made some serious progress with the raddo Over the last couple of weeks. Shocker legs all out, new top mounts put in and brand new coilovers.. Rears have been fitted and fronts are out! Job for this weekend. Rebuilt all the calipers with new seals and Pistons and a fresh coat of paint.. Carriers have all been wire wheeled and cleaned ready for paint shortly. Front discs have been wire wheeled aswell to clean them up, rears will be removed and get the same treatment this weekend.. Ended up picking up a set of genuine BBS RX2's today which have just been split, powder coated and rebuilt.. All

Always wanted a corrado vr but this popped up local so had to get it, I have had it about 2 years and have done everything I can to get it as good as possible without going silly! I have spent thousands lol

Got abit slow on updates, Did most of this few weeks ago. High flow cat fitted, and a Bosch lamba sensor fitted at same time, rather than a cheap copy as that's what came fitted to car. Cheap lambas can make an engine run like shit. Re-aligned the throttle body, and re-set the the lamba learned values and lamba ageing in vag-com. Changed the head unit, so I can use my SDHC cards. May change the speakers in it soon. Havent really done much else apart from driving it. No oil leaks, no water leaks on replacement engine. It's running spot on at the m

The body is in an OK shape and the engine is pretty solid, she's just a rusty bugger! Will probably end up keeping it and buying another vr for a engine swap! [emoji23]

To cut back paint or laqucer and remove swirls and restore, you need a decent compound pad. The likes of halfords pads, and most bought locally are to soft for cutting back. There okay for polishing, but no cutting back. I use a menzerna compound pad, and merguiars dimond cut 2.0 cutting compound. Work small sections at a time, I divide the bonnet in to 3 sections, each door 3 sections, (top section above and around window, middle of door and bump strip, bottom of door below bump strip), Roof in to 5 sections (4 squares at the back, and one section that goes around the side

New engine in, and totally back together. New oil and filter, new gearbox oil, new power steering fluid. Fill up with deionised water to test for water leaks first. I will drain it next weekend and fill with correct coolant. Apart from one of the sensors in thermostat housing, no leaks, that just need a new O-ring. Happy with that. Had a cam sensor issues, swaped it for a spare cam sensor I had that I knew was working, and still had same error, took the ECU out to test the wires, between the ECU plug and cam sensor plug. Everything was fine on the power and pulse wires, so it

The replacement engine I bought, OBD2, none air con, 98K. I will have to swap over all the air-con stuff as I want to keep it on this car, I may even fit climatronic at a later date. Started work on it straight away, First thing, was hand cranking it over, with spark plugs still fitted, to see if engine gets stiffer and harder to turn, this ment the engine is building compression. Next I removed the spark plugs and hand cranked engine over good few times, listing for knocks or rattels. I like to remove the spark plugs to do this as it makes the engine

After taking a think about this car, I have decided I am going to change the engine, but not for the decent one I already have in my garage. So I found another engine locally, with under 100k on it. So decided to go have a look, hand cranked it over and it seem good condition. So I bought it. And got my mate to pick it up on his recovery truck, and store it in his garage for a few weeks. It's still at my mates garage at the mo, waiting for him to drop it down with engine crane this weekend. I'll compression test it before fitting. But hopefully it should be a dec

Couple of photos from last time it was out to keep build alive.

As I mentioned before I have a spare engine in my garage, but really it's destiny is for the black VR as it a very good condition 74k engine, I want to rebuild for the black one. So..... I started to repair the engine already in this one. Will be giving the engine a flush after I finished doing all the work, so bought it ready. First thing was To take the rocker cover off and look at the tappets. One of them was very noisy, loose and could get a feeler gauge at 0.05 under it. So I decided replaced all six on the one cam shaft. Timing checked, cam's checked, cam locked with 5mm alloy plat

I tired to hand paint my rear VR6 badge red, with a small artist brush. I went for hand painting at 1st as I wanted to keep the black outter edge. And didn't want to mask it all up. But it came out shit and I didn't like it. So I lightly sanded it back again, masked it up and sprayed it instead. Took awhile to do, and was bit fiddly. Will let the pics do the talking. Also did the supercharger badge. To ensure the red on both badges matched. Few edges needed tidying up a little bit.