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Bullwinkle668

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Everything posted by Bullwinkle668

  1. Bullwinkle668
    About a week ago, I noticed two things. 1. The coolant warning lamp came on - the reservoir was completely empty. 2. Some discoloured liquid had run from behind the dash onto the front/left floor. A week later, the coolant reservoir has come up empty again and there is still evidence of liquid running onto the carpet front/left floor. Obviously a coolant leak somewhere. Any suggestions regarding its source?
  2. Bullwinkle668
    A faulty crank sensor can lead to the ecu receiving feedback outside of normal parameters. As a result, the ecu may prevent the car from starting.
  3. Bullwinkle668
    My car did a similar thing. The problem first presented as intermittently turning over but not firing. Eventually, it wouldn't start at all. Apparently there is a power relay switch renowned at VW Service to stick. It was replaced in mine and works fine. Recommend taking it to a VW Service Centre for full diagnostics. These engines are full of sensors that will prevent starting if they sense something is amiss. I know here in Australia, VW Service costs an arm and a leg but I would still recommend it for something as difficult as this to pin down.
  4. Bullwinkle668
    Thanx. The Aussie distributor stated the 8mm won't fit so recommended I go for 7mm Electrosport leads. Perhaps that is why they made such a suggestion.
  5. Bullwinkle668
    Yesterday had a wide oval resonator fitted where the "suitcase muffler" used to be. Fantastic! Maintains free exhaling, nice note externally, no droning inside cabin, and at a cost of AU$110. Currently shopping for a set of Magnecor (used in Australian Super V8 Touring Car Racing) plug leads and a new set of Bosch quad plugs (will stay away from platinum as they seem to be very temperamental). Have prices for most of my objectives - just a matter of fitting them over time.
  6. Bullwinkle668
    1. 1975 Ford Cortina TD powered by Aussie made 4.1 in-line 6 with chrome 12-slot wheels, lowered susp, extractors, and 3" exhaust system (It was stolen and recovered three times in the fourteen months I owned it!) 2. 1984 Toyota Corolla powered by 1600 16V fuel injected twin cam. (Loved this car and deeply saddened at its sale). 3. 1994 Volkswagen Golf III VR6... in heavenly bliss.
  7. Bullwinkle668
    BTW... the cone is in the upper part of the air box. Web search for "de-cone" and "VR6" - you will find instructions on how to remove it - RECOMMENDED.
  8. Bullwinkle668
    Yes first phase done.... 1. Removed cone and replaced air filter with K&N panel filter. big difference to acceleration - much smoother especially from 2000 - 3000 rpm. COST: AU$120. 2. Removed large "suitcase" muffler at mid-exhaust. Undoubtedly free-er flowing exhaust (that is one huge, heavy muffler), nice note externally. Internally it is a little loud from about 2500 rpm to 3000 rpm. Probably acceptable for most drivers but I would prefer a deeper, subdued note maybe about 25% quieter. COST: AU$90 - Will discuss options with my exhaust man, possibly a straight thru or offset sport muff
  9. Bullwinkle668
    Yes first phase done.... 1. Removed cone and replaced air filter with K&N panel filter. big difference to acceleration - much smoother especially from 2000 - 3000 rpm. COST: AU$120. 2. Removed large "suitcase" muffler at mid-exhaust. Undoubtedly free-er flowing exhaust (that is one huge, heavy muffler), nice note externally. Internally it is a little loud from about 2500 rpm to 3000 rpm. Probably acceptable for most drivers but I would prefer a deeper, subdued note maybe about 25% quieter. COST: AU$90 - Will discuss options with my exhaust man, possibly a straight thru or offset sport muff
  10. Bullwinkle668
    Anyone who knows me knows that I love my Golf III VR6 and I would love to mod it a little. They would also know that in my world I put my family first, then my car. So I embark on my crusade to find Golf tweaks that have little impact on the budget. OBJECTIVE: Improve my beloved Golf at minimal cost. This will include little technical changes and some minor repair/replacement (the car is ten years old!). I will post what I did, how much it cost, and the effects at each stage. Cheers.
  11. Bullwinkle668
    I am reading about the process of installing a resistor that makes the air temp sensor read the air temp as lower than it really is. The consequence is the ECU then ups the fuel level slightly to compensate. This supposedly results in a power increase. Anyone heard or tried this?
  12. Bullwinkle668
    Think BMC is a good choice. Certainly the most popular mod. Just need to find a dealer here in Oz. Anyone recommend a dealer who ships overseas?
  13. Bullwinkle668
    Does anyone know what the carbon canister does???
  14. Bullwinkle668
    Was looking at the BMC CDA last night. Not sure where that stands legally. Guess it can be justified as a covered filter. Sure the Guide on installation - is it much different when a/c is present? Also considered a bigger bore elbow - probably the leading contender idea at the moment as cost is neglible. Anyone tried this?
  15. Bullwinkle668
    Played with the air intake a little - see thread on "Air Flow"
  16. Bullwinkle668
    I have started playing with the air intake - removed the plastic cone and replaced the filter with a K&N flat panel. Here in Australia an exposed air filter is illegal (The Law therefore has issues with sport induction kits - though plenty of people run the risk still). Not sure on the legality of removing the carbon filter. What if I just remove the plastic elbow-bend pipe that feeds into the box?? Any thoughts on how this might affect airflow - more, less, or the same? I'm thinking the air will be sucked directly into the box unrestricted - no 90 degree bend to negotiate. So the same amo
  17. Bullwinkle668
    Not having a big budget to spend on my beloved VR6 (a poorly paid Paramedic with a wife and two children), I am looking for some simple, value-for-money performance tweaks. Any great tips out there? Anything around GBP200 or less per mod?
  18. Bullwinkle668
    Actually much easier than I thought: Just had to pop the headlight switch out. Then pop out a blank on the side opposite to the headlight switch. This revealed a screw behind each. Removed the screws and the surround around the gauges was popped out. Now the gauges are sitting bear in the dash and there are two screws holding it in. Removed the screws and the gauges can be tilted forward for replacing the globes or the gauges can be removed completely by unplugging the wiring. In total - popped out two dash components and removed four screws. Easy!
  19. Bullwinkle668
    I have the same problem as madmonkee. It never used to do it. I'm thinking (actually, I'm hoping) it may be a faulty switch - that's easy to replace.
  20. Bullwinkle668
    I need to replace the oil sump gasket and the driver's side CV boot. Anything I should look out for? Anyone discovered any hidden issues with these tasks? Its a Golf III VR6. Thanks.
  21. Bullwinkle668
    Should mention, it's a Golf III VR6.
  22. Bullwinkle668
    Okay, not a patient man when it comes to auto mechanics/electricals and interior work shits me to tears. The bulbs in my dash that illuminate down onto the main gauges have either blown or have loose connections. Either way, i need to get access. Anyone out there can talk me thru it?
  23. Bullwinkle668
    Have air con - a neccesity in our summers. After some scrutinising, I see there's not much room forward of the airbox. It could be that any method used to try and create a ram effect may be upset by having acute angles in any pipe. There's a grille-covered-opening-thingy on the front spoiler that I was thinking of utilising but it's down low (means an acute angle to reach it) and is the current location for the horn. An aussie company called Aunger (see their website) makes these plastic cool-air passive induction kits for some locally made vehicles - just bolt 'em on. Unfortunately not availa
  24. Bullwinkle668
    Can't see anything like the charcoal box - perhaps not fitted to cars destined for the Australian market??? There used to be a company called Midknight Motorsports who made cold air induction kits that fitted into the front spoiler. Anyone know where they went? I can only find references and dead-end links to them on websites but can't actually find the company. I may end up resorting to some flexible or PVC pipe and a suitable place to create an opening...
  25. Bullwinkle668
    Think I'll spend the afternoon getting aquainted with my carbon thingy then. Did read an article about fitting some PVC plumbing pipe to a Subaru as a feed into the box. That little right-angle piece of stock pipe just looks very restrictive.
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