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zerocool

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Everything posted by zerocool

  1. I made my own and its identical to the ones in the shops,and cost literally nothing,I might put a how to post up about it. the shifter isn't too bad to do,but a it difficlt to explain in writing
  2. andrew empsom on pvw forum is the man to get bits from,if you are gonna do the chains,make sure you change the guides ad tensioners too,might as well do the clutch while you have the gearbox off,oh and the rear main oil seal too.its a nice job to do,but time consuming,try and get the cam locking tool or make one if not,I can photocopy the origianl workshop manual for you if you like for a small fee.
  3. yeah its easy enough,but then I am a technician.
  4. its only held on by 3 Allan bolts and two hoses attach to it. its probably only the seal thats gone,but if you can afford it I would change the lot,get new allan bolts for it too. it took me about 30 mins to change one,the only awkward bit is getting the coolant pipes off,as the clamps require a special tool really, to compress them,but it can be done with a good pair of pliers.
  5. it not your piston rings and bores,it will be the valve stem oil seals that need replacing and possibly the valve guides.I have just done one on a friends vr6 that had done 130,000 miles,and there was no bore wear whatsover. but the valve guides and seals were shot. car only smoked when you coasted down a hill,and when you re applied the throttle it belched smoke out.
  6. strange I have never heard of any vehicle going into emergency mode through disconnecting the battery,vince at stealth racing showed me that trick,and he does know his stuff
  7. disconect the battery for 5 mins,then reconnect and turn the ignition on for 1 minute,but do not start the engine. after the ignition has been on for 1 minute start the enigne and let it idle for approx 30 secs,then take for a drive. this process resets the ecu values and allows the ecu to relearn its settings to the engine sensors. my vr had a flat spot,and after doing the above it is fine now.
  8. later vr6's had an electronic throttle body which controlled the idle,only earlier vr's had the idle valve on them as pictured above
  9. I'd always use genuine vag,for things like that,like you say, I have bought sensors before that don't work and from beru. is your car obd1 or 2? I would check the throttle potentiometer
  10. you need it on a diagnostic machine really,I have the same prob,but I got no fault codes up on mine,I'm just gonna change sensors as I go now,at least then I know they should be all good for a few more miles
  11. yeah I ave the high line engine in mine,it has been supercharged for about 3 months with no probs,I have a z engineering blower on it. I think my problem is the throttle potentiometer,as I disconnected the mass air flow meter and the problem was still there. I think its a fueling problem,because if the ignition was cutting out,it would ignite the unburnt fuel when it cut back in a cause a backfire. got the manual today,but it aint a lot of help to me as its for the earlier vr6 but it still shows all the fault codes etc which should be the same. just need to get the info on the site for you guy
  12. hello!I',m new on here,I live in jersey channel islandsworking for a bmw/mercedes garage as a technician. I have a golf ralllye with a supercharged vr6 highline in it. Anyway back to the topic. I have just bought a genuine vag manaul for the corrado vr6 engines,it covers injection and ignition sytems and lists all the fault codes and diagnostic procedures. I have a vag scan tool which is a pda that has vag-com software on it. might take a while to scan the interesting parts of the manual up on here,so we will have to find some other way of getting this info to the people who want it. still ha
  13. have you guys sorted this problem? as my car is doing the same thing.seems to be a common problem on vrs. mine is the later coil pack type. is every one elses this type too??
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