warwickA2VR

I used one of those twist tie things (is that what they are called) after stripping off the plastic outer stuff. I couldn't find anything else thin enough. I dont think its necessary anyway and is dangerous to the engine. Are you supossed to fit them fully pumped up to avoid the chain skipping of the sprock. Could you do this by putting it in some oil and sucking the oil in. How long should the tensioner be to avoid destruction of the engine on start up. [ Edited Sun Mar 21 2004, 08:50PM ]

my cylinder head is coming off soon to do the gasket so I can inspect the chain now. what does a worn tensioner blade look like? is it difficult to get the gearbox off to fit a new tensioner or is that a step to far for a learner vr6 mechanic? [ Edited Thu Mar 18 2004, 06:03PM ]

If its possible to fit a late low mileage one (less than 80000) what would a corrado engine likely cost and anyone ever done this. how does the wiring compare with an early golf vr6 as this seems like the biggest problem. andy

funny you should say that - I wired up the two plug DLC - black and white ones becouse I thought mine was a 92 - 93 car. Turns out I should have put the 16 pin plug on as its a 94. The connections are to EXACTLY the same places on all vr6's (white plug to ecu, black plug to fuse box) as i've studied all the wiring diagrams. When the bloke that checked the codes could not get into the ECU with year'94' he tried putting year '92' and it worked and got codes, well 1 code - lambda probe faulty. Now my ECU seems not to work properly although the car still runs ok - just really rich, but i think it

i know all about them diagnostic connectors as i had to wire them up. that was great fun !! well apparently the one mines got was the same as all vr6 golfs, passats and probably corrados from 92 (or whenever they were first made) to 94 so there should be a few about. there was one on ebay today - went for 30 notes but I messed up the auction (doh!) [ Edited Sun Feb 22 2004, 10:23PM ]

mines a 94 (obd1). would a later one work ok. mind you I'd try anything at the moment as the cars knackered and i'm thinking of scrapping the bugger (don't care about the money lost - its 'doin my head in' ) love to see it crushed actually :@ [ Edited Sun Feb 22 2004, 10:13PM ]

£200 (gasp!!!) Not too bad really. Thanks for the tip.

new ECU for 1994 vr6 - how much is it gonna cost me ? just fitted a lambda probe to cure high emmissions MOT failure and found out the heated part of the lambda does not work now - no current. I found the lambda probe heater relay does not work so did tests and the earth of the relay coil that goes through the ecu and that has too much resistance ie no proper earth (therefore the relay wont work and no leccy to heater of oxygen senser) so now I think I need a new ecu (after all the other problems i've had.) It seems its never ending - these cars are a fcking nightmare when they go wrong - most

tested the lambda today on the output wire with a voltmeter and it read 0.3 volts which signifies its smelling a rich exhaust(1 volt would mean lean) the heater element also works so i'm thinking the lambdas ok afterall. somethings making the engine run rich though but im fcked what - fuel pressure regulator not working maybe. [ Edited Tue Feb 17 2004, 01:39AM ]

isnt boiling over caused by lack of pressure in the system ie lowered pressure allowing the water to boil at lower temps (100degrees rather than 120 degrees or whatever it is suposed to be.) they always say to check the cap on ex tank as the seal goes bad sometimes.

car may need a new one as my emmissions are dodgy (CO high). german and swedish have vr6 item for £64 and a general one for £22. Can I fit the cheaper one - will it work ? If not whats the point in a 'general use' item.

well they both are, sort off. this is what it says in the bentley blue one = engine coolant temperature senser yellow one (4 pin) = thermo-sender with switch for coolant temperature gauge and auxillary electric water pump confused - so am I !!!

its a black plastic thing bolted on to the right side of the cylinder head (looking at engine bay). It has coolant pipes from the radiator going to it and 2 sensors (a blue and a yellow one) and 1 blanking plug in a row. you have to drain the coolant to take the senser out (or some of it) and replace the o ring.

I had a bad leak from the thermo housing - fixed that and it stopped leaking as proven by newspaper under car - no drips. Since then i've been closely watching the level in expansion tank and every few days the water drops 1/2 cm all at once after staying level for days. I top up !! The car is off the road but is occasionally moved but not run for more than a couple of mins. Is it poss that air bubbles are finding there way out and therfore dropping the level since i changed the coolant to do the thermo job. Is there a more sinister reason.

don't forget the vr was sold in very cold places like canada (-50 centigrade eek!) the uk cars probably dont get icing up problems anyway; after all it hardly ever drops to 0 c so the coolant pipes are probably a redundant feature.