ChrisP

Are there before and after RR results for the 263's on either n/a or forced induction cars? Have I missed them somewhere, I did look on the corrado forum, but didnt see anything definitive

8-10 psi, you want to try 17 psi, thats where the world goes past at an altogether different speed!

did you get my pm kelster?

you have got a fecked autobox is what - there is a water to oil cooler on the top of the autobox and they are prone to failing unfortunately - they split and water gets in, wrecking the box. Its a £1000 rebuild cost, or find a secondhand one to put in

Sorry Kev, I wasnt asking for the aim of getting you to justify everything you do, more of it isnt something that would normally be done just because it can be, purely because it isnt cheap - if you needed to change the pump and you wanted to go that route, then fair enough

It does beg the question of why you have gone to the effort and expense of fitting those bits then Kev?

that advert is a load of horsesh!t - since when does it take between 5-10k to run an engine in, and why be so vague about it. And the brakes are either from an R32, or they are 6 pots, they arent both!

I personally didnt get on with either the Goodyears or the toyos in their previous pattern designs, but am currently running the new Proxes 4. So far so good, but the tread pattern isnt the best for my style of driving in the dry, but as its winter and wet, I wanted to try something different. Also, the new assymetric Goodyear F1 is starting to be introduced, but not down to anything under scoobyt sized 17's last time I checked

ok Kev, this is a discussion from which we have a differing opinion, I'm not quibbling, or argueing with you or anyone else. I'm offering my opinion based on the original question based on my knowledge and experience (as are we all) - the game reference was because a dry sump system really isnt viable for 99.9% of us, no matter it being the pinnacle of solving this problem and giving other advantages in addition

go for the front bolts first, take them all the way out, then thread then back in a few turns so they will support the subframe when you take the rear bolts out. Removal of the arb should be relatively easy, but take your time when putting the replacement in, especially if the arb bushes are new, I would expect you to swear a lot, there isnt much room, and the bush needs to be squashed a little when the clamp is in, so its a bit of a pain to do

OK Kev, if you really want to play that game - you ever come across a dry sump kit for a VR6? Whilst I was looking for a pic of an R32 sump last night I did see something along those lines on Vortex, but it was going to be a custom one off at around 3K (I forget if £ or $) and that was just to make up the new sump and related parts, no pump, tank, lines etc etc. More to the point, have you ever seen a VW cup (VR6 engined) car fitted with a dry sump system? Apart from the fact that they are more than likely banned, a baffled sump is more than adequate in comparison in terms of it functioning,

A pic of a 4 cylinder application, but the below is an example of a baffled sump, very different to the 2.8 4 motion sump Anyone got pics of an R32 sump to put up?

with regards to brake and wheel fitmens, it all comes down to the design of the wheel - I've fitted the 312mm TT setup under my 15" compomotives previously, and have 330's under 16" compomotives