ChrisP
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Everything posted by ChrisP
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Are there before and after RR results for the 263's on either n/a or forced induction cars? Have I missed them somewhere, I did look on the corrado forum, but didnt see anything definitive
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8-10 psi, you want to try 17 psi, thats where the world goes past at an altogether different speed!
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did you get my pm kelster?
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a bad day, a very very bad day!!!!
ChrisP replied to sticks's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
you have got a fecked autobox is what - there is a water to oil cooler on the top of the autobox and they are prone to failing unfortunately - they split and water gets in, wrecking the box. Its a £1000 rebuild cost, or find a secondhand one to put in -
Sorry Kev, I wasnt asking for the aim of getting you to justify everything you do, more of it isnt something that would normally be done just because it can be, purely because it isnt cheap - if you needed to change the pump and you wanted to go that route, then fair enough
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It does beg the question of why you have gone to the effort and expense of fitting those bits then Kev?
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that advert is a load of horsesh!t - since when does it take between 5-10k to run an engine in, and why be so vague about it. And the brakes are either from an R32, or they are 6 pots, they arent both!
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I personally didnt get on with either the Goodyears or the toyos in their previous pattern designs, but am currently running the new Proxes 4. So far so good, but the tread pattern isnt the best for my style of driving in the dry, but as its winter and wet, I wanted to try something different. Also, the new assymetric Goodyear F1 is starting to be introduced, but not down to anything under scoobyt sized 17's last time I checked
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ok Kev, this is a discussion from which we have a differing opinion, I'm not quibbling, or argueing with you or anyone else. I'm offering my opinion based on the original question based on my knowledge and experience (as are we all) - the game reference was because a dry sump system really isnt viable for 99.9% of us, no matter it being the pinnacle of solving this problem and giving other advantages in addition
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go for the front bolts first, take them all the way out, then thread then back in a few turns so they will support the subframe when you take the rear bolts out. Removal of the arb should be relatively easy, but take your time when putting the replacement in, especially if the arb bushes are new, I would expect you to swear a lot, there isnt much room, and the bush needs to be squashed a little when the clamp is in, so its a bit of a pain to do
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OK Kev, if you really want to play that game - you ever come across a dry sump kit for a VR6? Whilst I was looking for a pic of an R32 sump last night I did see something along those lines on Vortex, but it was going to be a custom one off at around 3K (I forget if £ or $) and that was just to make up the new sump and related parts, no pump, tank, lines etc etc. More to the point, have you ever seen a VW cup (VR6 engined) car fitted with a dry sump system? Apart from the fact that they are more than likely banned, a baffled sump is more than adequate in comparison in terms of it functioning,
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A pic of a 4 cylinder application, but the below is an example of a baffled sump, very different to the 2.8 4 motion sump Anyone got pics of an R32 sump to put up?
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with regards to brake and wheel fitmens, it all comes down to the design of the wheel - I've fitted the 312mm TT setup under my 15" compomotives previously, and have 330's under 16" compomotives
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cos there are people on the end of keyboards that havent got a clue what they are talking about?
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Anyone running a Schimmel short intake manifold N / A??
ChrisP replied to dub16's topic in Engine Tuning
I have a brand new schimmel for sale if you are looking for one...... http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?190837 -
IF you are looking for a correct RHD turbo manifold, then I have one for sale - I got it originally from IBIVR, and is the same as Kev has got, so is the real deal - pm me if interested
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Any one got a recon'd VR6 lump for sale
ChrisP replied to Kingsize's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
I have a good 2.8 VR6 lump if thats of use? PM me if you want more info -
Very nice Tom, liking the Rallye, a lot!
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My Mk2 VR6 turbo (4 wheels are better than 2!)
ChrisP replied to sparkz's topic in Members Rides and Event Photos
why have you cut that big square hole in your bulkhead? -
Its not necessairly the valve work you should be looking at. Apart from the valve stem seals, you should get the condition of the guides inspected, and replaced, as this will be a cause of oil consumption (along with tired stem seals)
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Most people that know about VR's know that there is a difference between 2.9 and 2.8 inlet manifolds on OBD1' date=' the reason being that corrado 2.9's were OBD1, [b']BUT when the Golf VR Syncro changed to OBD2 along with the 2WD Golf VR in 1996 they gave the 2.9 (that was always installed with the syncro) a bigger manifold. So there is a 2.9 or bigger OBD2 manifold. I know this for a fact because I have one! See the pics below
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The 16's are ET31, I have some here myself
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The TDI's run 18:1 compression, most of the MK3's are only the 90bhp version, finding a 110bhp one is pretty hard. As for tuning, they arent like the pd MK4 motors, the most I saw out of mine was 146 bhp and a shIt load of torque with bigger injectors and an ecu rechip