hobbsy

I know milltek do one for 99quid, was thinking of getting one as my cat id f***ed with a big split in it, however I wasnt aware you needed a remap, if you do it turns into an expensive mateer, especially as you need to put it back to standard for MOT. Any info would be appreciated as I was just gonna put my hand in my pocket and get one

185+VAt from GSf, or 40 quid from a breakers, i will take my chances on a second hand one as ive got 10 mmonths mot left and as long as it isnt blowing I dont mind if the internals are shagged. Does anyone know what year they changed, my car is OBD1.

Im gonna get a second hand cat as mine is split, are there any differences form different years that affect lambda sensor and fit or will one from any year be ok.

I had the top tensioner bolt out yesterday and it looked fine, was the correct length as compared to another thread and held the chain nice and tight, Im just wondering if there is anything else that could be making the engine sound rattley, it is all the way up the rev renge with a slightly louder noise at 1200 rpm, which is why I thought it was the chains. Perhaps Im just being paranoid??? But the thought of the chain letting go halfway across europe scares me, thats a long tow back!

My vr6 has done 90k and is beginning to sound quite rattley, after listening to a sound clip on vortex I was convinced that the chains needed doing. Yesterday I took the rocker cover off to have a look and found that the top runner was in good condition and the top tensioner was the ok, checked my history and there is no mention of the top runner being replaced. Does anyone have any pics of what the top runner should look like at 90k or got any ideas if anything else could be causing the rattle? Is it likely that the bottom tensioner is knackered if the top seems in good nick? Any help would b

I nearly painted my calipers at the weekend as they look grubby against my wheels, until I saw the photo on the caliper paint packaging which looked a little bit chavvy. What do you lot reckon, was gonna do them red, now im thinking gold or silver if at all? The car is mystic blue btw.

Ah welding, not a bad plan, I will get underneath tomorrow and see if its doable. Must be said I thought 120 was a bit steep, if you have got the number VR6freak it woulf be handy.

My cat is cracked and has failed the MOT, anyone know how long they are supposed to last. Im looking at 185 +VAT for a new one or 120 from the scrappy, obviously would go for the cheaper option but if they usually last 100k ish then one from a scrappy would be on its way out soon and would be a waste of 120 quid.

Dont worry about photos yet, but if you could find out about postage that would be good, gonna go down the bodyshop soon and get a price for spraying bumpers and a few other bits and bobs

Im in Canterbury, CT1 postcode, not bothered about next day as long as they get here in 1 piece.

Sounds interesting dubloke, got any idea how much it would cost to post/courier them as I am in kent. Is the fit gonna be good on them, had some bad experiences with non genuine body panels before.

I am just smoothing out the lines, goonna be getting some smooth bumpers from a scrappy so I dont have to rub down the plastic first, and i can work on them off the car. A good bit of advice about the drilling, wouldnt have thought of that!

Thinking about smooting my bumpers, do I use normal car body filler or is there something better for use with plastic?

Ive got a mk 1 campaign as well as the vr6, have always been a mk1 man and had them as daily drivers for years. Started doing a fair bit of motorway driving so went for a vr6. The mk1 is tucked up in my mothers garage 170 miles away, but will be moved up to Kent when I find a garage for a DIY respray, All the dirty bits are sorted, 1900 mk2 engine, late mk2 gearbox, 60mm drop, I stripped and welded and retreated the underneath last summer and welded in new arches so once the respray is done should look mint.

2 of my electric windows are playing up, when they go down beyond halfway they go up and down on their own accord. Wouldnt mind too much if the rear one hadnt jammed down at 6.00 last night in the snow and I had to take off the door panel and push it up with a knocking guage. The motors do work but it seems to be a control problem, does anyone know what this could be? I have heard that the windows have rectifiers(!) (regulators?), does anyone know what these are and if they would be causing the problem. Scuse my lack of knowledge but this is my first modern car (had mk 1s for years).