trackman

Cam followers (or buckets) are hydraulic versions of tappets that used to be fit to cars before the 90s. New followers are definately recommended because the cam and followers wear together. If new cams are fitted with old followers, you're going to get excessive heat and wear on the cam because the mating surfaces aren't mating properly. Schrick Manifolds are a completely different mod to the cams. They 'tune' the length of the inlet tracts into the combustion chamber to increase the torque of the engine. The disadvantage of tuned inlet tracts is that they hinder the speed of the incoming

I think mine had a raised ATE emblem on the casting of the caliper. You had to take the wheel off to see it. But then mine are 280mm and I went for Pagid RS4-2 race pads, so it may be different for 288s and FR pads.

I think the difference is between Girling and ATE calipers.

I've removed my ABS and Traction Control gizmos mainly because they come as one, and I don't want TC cutting in on the track. Plus it saves a bit of weight. Anyway, now the brakes feel over-servoed. Was wondering if there was a way of adjusting the servo. Also considering a dual-master cylinder / bias bar setup without the servo. Anyone got any suggestions or experience of this?

The differences in figures are probably down to regulations. When I SVA'd a kitcar that I built, we had to add 2x75kg passengers and a full tank of fuel to arrive at the kerb weight. You usually drive across weighbridges, so Eat this' figure probably included him as well.

Just for fun. I'm not good enough for competition. Wouldn't have minded a go at the VW Cup though.

Why so? I didn't drive it on the track without the schrick soo I've nothing to compare it with, but the pulling power out of the bends is pretty impressive. It also means I've more choice over gears.

I just thought I'd tell people about how good my brakes are. I've done three track days now in my car and have been thoroughly impressed with them. The last track outing at Donnington, an M3 driver had to put out two fires, one under each of his rims! I had no fade all day and thats on the GP circuit which is renowned for its heavy braking points. So, what brake setup have I got? I put new standard 280mm disks on the front, fit braided steel brake hoses all round, bought some Pagid Blue front race pads and Castrol SRF brake fluid. The Pagid Blue race pads were expensive (~

Cheers guys. Bought a new trailer now, but I might try Brentacre and/or Highway just out of interest to see what they say.

Having a bit of a 'mare at the mo. My trailer's knackered so I'm looking into putting my track VR6 on the road. Just been told by a broker that most Insurance companies load your policy by around 40% if you've got a rollcage fitted. !dodge !sad ~ What!!! I thought it was a safety device. Only reason I can think of is that it adds to the cost of repairing the car. One to watch out for if you're planning a nice chrome rear cage for your VR!

I've had an A3 QS (180) and two S3s (both standard 225), a VR6 Corrado and an R32. I preferred the S3s over the VR mainly because of traction, but I missed the noise. The R32 was the dogs danglies though. Fantastic sound, traction and power. I agree though that if big power is more important to you than sound, then the 1.8T is probably the way to go.

Someone once told me not to trust any tuner that gives you flywheel power figures. Unless they actually remove the engine and measure it in a rig, all they do is use a percentage to calculate the figure. Different drive trains sap power in different amounts. Even two cars of the same year and spec can be upto 15 bhp different. 205 clearly sounds better than 172, but in reality it what's at the wheels that matters. That said, I've heard the Dastek Unichip is the one to go for (assuming no turbo). Gonna invest in one myself once I've found my nearest decent tuner. Might just end up going to

Cheers guys. I'll take a look at that group buy thread.