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Everything posted by trackman
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Cam kits...are they worth it and how much are they?
trackman replied to matth76's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Cam followers (or buckets) are hydraulic versions of tappets that used to be fit to cars before the 90s. New followers are definately recommended because the cam and followers wear together. If new cams are fitted with old followers, you're going to get excessive heat and wear on the cam because the mating surfaces aren't mating properly. Schrick Manifolds are a completely different mod to the cams. They 'tune' the length of the inlet tracts into the combustion chamber to increase the torque of the engine. The disadvantage of tuned inlet tracts is that they hinder the speed of the incoming -
I think mine had a raised ATE emblem on the casting of the caliper. You had to take the wheel off to see it. But then mine are 280mm and I went for Pagid RS4-2 race pads, so it may be different for 288s and FR pads.
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I think the difference is between Girling and ATE calipers.
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ABS removed - now over-servoed
trackman replied to trackman's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
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I've removed my ABS and Traction Control gizmos mainly because they come as one, and I don't want TC cutting in on the track. Plus it saves a bit of weight. Anyway, now the brakes feel over-servoed. Was wondering if there was a way of adjusting the servo. Also considering a dual-master cylinder / bias bar setup without the servo. Anyone got any suggestions or experience of this?
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The differences in figures are probably down to regulations. When I SVA'd a kitcar that I built, we had to add 2x75kg passengers and a full tank of fuel to arrive at the kerb weight. You usually drive across weighbridges, so Eat this' figure probably included him as well.
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Just for fun. I'm not good enough for competition. Wouldn't have minded a go at the VW Cup though.
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Why so? I didn't drive it on the track without the schrick soo I've nothing to compare it with, but the pulling power out of the bends is pretty impressive. It also means I've more choice over gears.
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I just thought I'd tell people about how good my brakes are. I've done three track days now in my car and have been thoroughly impressed with them. The last track outing at Donnington, an M3 driver had to put out two fires, one under each of his rims! I had no fade all day and thats on the GP circuit which is renowned for its heavy braking points. So, what brake setup have I got? I put new standard 280mm disks on the front, fit braided steel brake hoses all round, bought some Pagid Blue front race pads and Castrol SRF brake fluid. The Pagid Blue race pads were expensive (~
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Cheers guys. Bought a new trailer now, but I might try Brentacre and/or Highway just out of interest to see what they say.
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Having a bit of a 'mare at the mo. My trailer's knackered so I'm looking into putting my track VR6 on the road. Just been told by a broker that most Insurance companies load your policy by around 40% if you've got a rollcage fitted. !dodge !sad ~ What!!! I thought it was a safety device. Only reason I can think of is that it adds to the cost of repairing the car. One to watch out for if you're planning a nice chrome rear cage for your VR!
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I've had an A3 QS (180) and two S3s (both standard 225), a VR6 Corrado and an R32. I preferred the S3s over the VR mainly because of traction, but I missed the noise. The R32 was the dogs danglies though. Fantastic sound, traction and power. I agree though that if big power is more important to you than sound, then the 1.8T is probably the way to go.
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Someone once told me not to trust any tuner that gives you flywheel power figures. Unless they actually remove the engine and measure it in a rig, all they do is use a percentage to calculate the figure. Different drive trains sap power in different amounts. Even two cars of the same year and spec can be upto 15 bhp different. 205 clearly sounds better than 172, but in reality it what's at the wheels that matters. That said, I've heard the Dastek Unichip is the one to go for (assuming no turbo). Gonna invest in one myself once I've found my nearest decent tuner. Might just end up going to
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Cheers guys. I'll take a look at that group buy thread.
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Pete. What/where's the slant panel? On the wiring front, I've got the instructions as per the link already. It's the 'blue cable to rev-counter input signal' bit I'm struggling with. I've had a look in the Bentley manual wiring diagrams, but it's not clear (to me!) which wire is the input signal. Cheers, Rich
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Finally got round to getting my engine back in with it's shiny new Schrick Manifold. Come to connect up the vacuum hoses and the wiring today, only to stumble on the wiring. Is there anyone that's fitted one that can tell me where to connect the wiring up to? Also where have people fitted their control boxes. I'm guessing it needs to go inside the cabin, but which route through the bulkhead? Cheers, Rich
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I had the same on my A6 when I first got it. I think I just left it on for a few weeks and it cleared.
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Nick, If you want to PM me your address, I'll post you mine, providing you send it back when you've done the job. Rich
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If I remember correctly there are four types of heater systems. Normal as fitted to all standard golfs has temperature control, but no feedback system. So it can't maintain a constant temp in the cabin. Thermotronic is analogue (knobs) temperature control for non-aircon systems. You set the cabin temp on the dial and with the feedback system, it will moderate the output heat to maintain requested temp. Standard Air-con is just like normal except that you have an air-con button to enable the power of the air-con compressor. With no feedback system, you still have to manually control the te
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I thought that was the point of a larger capacity sump - to hold more oil?
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Pete - I still don't get why a larger capacity sump needs a different dipstick. Surely the oil still needs to come up to a specific level in relation to the block, so the original should still be OK?
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Warren, my ufo valve is defo just a plastic tube with a pretend electrical connector. There's no electronics or anything. My guess is that it's a dummy replacement for a proper valve possibly fitted for US emissions or something. Given that, there's nothing much can go wrong with it. What's happened on mine is that over time the rubber pipe from the cam cover to the ufo valve has gone soft, and it's no longer sealing around the joint to the ufo valve, so it drips onto the exhaust manifold.
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I love it when that happens!
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You deffo need a proper spark plug socket. You can get them from halfords or anywhere like that. Mine says 10mm on the side, but it's a bit bigger than a normal 10mm socket (not sure how that works! !dodge ). A spark plug socket is basically a lot deeper than a normal one, and it has a rubber ring inside so that you can lift the plug out of the head on the end of the socket. Rich