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trackman

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Everything posted by trackman

  1. Looking good! I read somewhere that pics have to be less than 400x400. Rich
  2. Mine's a 94 and it's the same as acf's, one button for the lot.
  3. I'm glad you know the history. Let's hope it's the breather as you said. Rich
  4. The only tool I've used for the head is the plate to lock the cams at TDC, but then I've not done anything at it other than removing it. Part number is 3268. 68k does sound low for head work. Can you authenticate the mileage. Don't want to worry you, but I bought a VR6 Corrado a few years back from a VW dealer with 29k on the clock. Had loads of problems with it and then someone checked the history on the VAG computers and found it has three lots of warranty work in the first twelve months, the last one recorded at 79k!! The first service was three months after this with 8k. The car had
  5. I've got both manuals and find that the Peter Russek VR6 manual is slightly more detailed when it comes to engine internals as that's what it's focussed on. The bentley is good, but covers all engines, and the rest of the car as well. They compliment each other really. Rich [ Edited Sun Mar 06 2005, 08:57PM ]
  6. This wouldn't be it would it! http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/speciality_tools-piston_installation_sleeve-d.html Just spotted it on an american site.
  7. OK, so I bought one of those piston ring compressors from 'alfords to help me get my pistons back in my VR block. First one (no 6) went it without too much problem. Second one struggled like mad, then tried helping the bottom ring in, then ...... sh*t, snapped the bugger. ~ Because the pistons don't enter the block at 90degrees, you can't get the compressor flush to the block AND flush to the piston with the rings fully compressed. So the ring either pops out at one side or it isn't compressed enough to fit. Am I doing it wrong, or are they just a complete pain in the ass? Any help appreciate
  8. Sounds like the carbon recirculation thingy. Sorry, but I'm not sure what it does. I'm sure someone will though!
  9. I wouln't count on it. Had an R32 and an S3 (Ok not quite a MK5 GTI but same sort of engine) and there's not much in it. You're looking at 23-24 hard driving and about 28-29 for the motorway. I'm guessing that the MK5 GTI won't be all that much better.
  10. 27 is still quite a good age. You can get away with calling it 'mid-twenties' and you've probably still got most of your hair! All the best mate - have a nice day!
  11. It's not looking good. According to the diagram I have, it's all one piece. That means dash out to get to the heater matrix. Not sure how much new ones are.
  12. Probably worth speaking to a solicitor about the disclaimer as well, just to see if it's feasible. I've been told previously of disclaimers not being worth the paper they're written on because of overriding laws etc.
  13. Cheers yellowslc. The big end shells look OK, no scoring or anything. I'm replacing them anyway. Same with the rings. I wasn't going to replace them, but I'm thinking I might as well. The tricky bit is checking the bore for warpage. Special tools required probably. They just appear to be surface scratches as you can't even feel them. Considering that No3 is the middle cylinder at the exhaust manifold side, could it possibly be a slight expansion of the block in that area that's caused the scratches. Rich
  14. Hi, I have actually bought this manifold and it is no longer for sale. I have it in my garage now. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT PART WITH ANY MONEY IN RESPONSE TO THIS EMAIL AS IT'S OBVIOUSLY A CON. If I were you I'd report it to eBay. The seller was ChrisP (of this forum and others) and he'll be able to confirm that it was sold. 'malcolm' from this forum has also had the email because he's PM'd me about it. Rich
  15. The bolts are M8 so you'll need a 13mm socket. I don't think you'll need any other tools. The hole for the bolt to release the tension is on the top of the tensioner as you look down onto it.
  16. Further investigation after removing pistons. No.3 (same as discoloured valve) has scoring on the outer wall of the cylinder bore. You can't feel it, only see it. And so has the piston. Anyone any clues about what's causing this? Rich
  17. It's mine .... all mine .... Well it will be providing the courier drops it off in one piece tomorrow, otherwise it'll be the property of DHL's insurance services. Somehow I always manage to spend my bonuses before I actually get them. You're not deserting us Andrew are you?
  18. To confirm what Andrew said, I've got an earlyish (94) VR6 that has got hydraulic clutch and a late (98) 8V that hasn't. Oh and it's far too cold to go outside and take any pics!! Rich
  19. What with getting back under the bonnet recently and getting my hands dirty, I've been mulling over ideas for garage-type businesses and even considered this very idea. Now I've come across this thread, it sounds like there's certainly a market out there. It's just a case of working out if the market is big enough in one area to make it viable. There's not many people on this forum from my area, but we do have a bit of a Saxo / Subaru cult thing going on. I think we might be onto something, especially in areas where there isn't much in terms of specialists.
  20. If the stat is stuck open, normally you'd just buy a new one. They not too expensive, I reckon a tenner or so. It fits inside the large plastic housing at the end of the plastic pipe that I talked about before. I'm not sure how slow the fan is at Stage I, so either it's too slow to make any decent sort of noise, or your fan switch isn't working properly. Rich
  21. Doh. You already said that you ran it this morning.
  22. I guess when you say nothing, you mean no lights on the dash or anything. You've probably already tried disconnecting the stereo. Does anything else electrical work (ie central locking) that doesn't run through the ignition switch? Is it possible that you've left something on overnight and the battery's gone flat and the stereo change is just incidental?
  23. In what way won't it start. Does it turn over? Does it fire but then cut out? Have you connected the individual wires for the stereo or used a standard VAG block connector/loom?
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