yellowslc

We're working on a trapezodial shaped plenum covering 6 velocity stacks. The 75mm TB sits dead center pointing down. Combine this with the equal length turbo manifold for a true equal airpath through the engine. It'll either make power or just look damn good. The schrick 248's work great in FI applications, huge midrange torque increase. I'll tune for these and then try some 268's if I need more top end kick. Yes, 268's with FI. If you have stand alone and the fuel system to support the high rpm fueling, they have been proven by a gentleman in NJ to make some serious power.

I haven't seen which short runner is the one in question however I can provide some first hand experience. Without having FI you are about to sacrifice a lot of low end torque. The schrick you currently have does nothing but increase torque. Personally, I'd stick with that unless FI is in the mix. Yes I've been incognito for months. Been working on a bunch of track prepped porsches and S2000's of all things. Robert.

Either the rings are out of spec, the cylinder is warped or you have rod bearing issues. Check all 3. For whatever reason, that piston is walking all over the cylinder.

the quick test for the thermostat is.. start engine when cold.. wait until the gauge reads ~180 degrees F (80C?) and touch the lower radiator hose. A stuck thermostat will never allow the coolant to pass through the lower radiator hose.

To check, remove the access cover inside of the hatch. You then need to remove both fuel lines and the 5" diameter locking ring. Pull upwards on the cap (plastic ring which the fuel lines attached to) and extend the interior fuel hoses. To remove the pump, simply rotate the pump 1/4 turn counterclockwise and lift out of the tank. To install, note that one of the locking tabs on the fuel pump botton is smaller than the other 3. Place over the lock ring inside of the tank and rotate 1/4 turn clockwise. Also be certain that the fuel hoses inside of the tank are not obstructing the level sending

you have a 50/50 chance of getting acceptable aftermarket valve seals, why risk it for a few dollars more ?

99% certain it is your fuel pump. What normally happens is the seals between the pump and the housing it resides in rot away. This allows the pump to cavitate as there is not enough fuel around the pickup. The ecu attempts to compensate for the low volume of fuel by increasing the injector duty cycle. When this gets worse, you will begin to knock under load. I've run into this numerous times. R

Doesnt look bad at all. I would suggest at least hand lapping the valves/seats or a valve job. If you have the tools, check he valve guide play or take it somewhere. Normally the exhaust guides go long before the intakes do. Use NOTHING but OEM valve seals as the aftermarket ones are rubbish.