Bee
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Everything posted by Bee
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Might need bleeding mate as there a fluid clutch i think thats all you could do.
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I Started it again today and the top end knocking is quiter than it was the other day but it started to get worse as it warmed up, when i took the oil cap off it didnt seem right, it looks kinda dry,apart from the cam moving it looks like at ain't running, Could my problem be the oil pump ?,has anyone heard of a sudden jolt from a crash breaking the oil pump ? How do i test the oil pump ? Do i need a pressure gauge to check the oil pressure ? Also think i gonna get sniff test done. Thanks Bee...
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Right where do i start A couple of weeks back i was happily pulling away from a set of light when a dumb cow slammed her brake on for no reason and i slammed into the back her, cause the rad popped i turned it striate off and then towed it home,the next day the insurance company towed my car away to a garage where they decided to write it off (Tossers). Cause the damage was so light i brought it back off them for £140 (only needs lights ,bumper,grill,rads and slam panel). Today i brought a second hand Slam panel with both rads and 1 light for £40, so i`m thinking sweet only need a light, bum
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Theres tons of info and diagrams here mate http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VR6_engine
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Not my car thank god My friend has a 16v Gti and the other day he ran out of petrol, when he put some petrol in it the battery was flat (i think he left the interior light on), so he put a new battery on it and the alarm started going off which he don't have a working remote for, so he disconected the siren and towed it to me. I found the alarm behind the glove box disconected it and bypassed the imobiliser (its a 998 vag 153 or in english a scorpion 918) So now it turns over because the imobiliser was on the starter, but it still wont start, i can hear the fuel pump when i turn the ignition o
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I would have thought is was either the alarm or the relay I don't think it's the loom mate because after you turn the ignition off and close the doors the power to the window switch's are cut If it was in the loom it would have to be a bare live touching the window wires and that would more than likley happen when the cars moving about Bee..
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Happened on mine as well, At first it would cut out randomly and usualy start back up after a couple of weeks it wouldn't start off the key but would usualy bump start ? Then it got worse and worse and broke down on most trips sometimes for 5 mins other times an hour (really friging annoying) Changed the Crank Speed Sensor been good as gold ever since. Bee P.S Only showed up on vag com once when it first started doing it.
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Theres one on ebay Item number: 320245431072
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Anyone know where to get the bolster on a colour concept recaro fixed and roughly how much it cost ,its got a small tear about 2cm long on the driver side bolster where they usally ware I'll post a pic in a bit Thanks Bee
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New Owner - Problems Already!! Engine Speed Sensor?
Bee replied to brianbunning's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Just to let you know mate The crank speed sensor Part No for vr6 is 021-906-433- C (not A) And i got quoted £140 odd when i ran the stealers Bee -
Hi I've had simular fault as you two, cars run ok little bit lumpy at idle but every now and then it won't start for shit ! just turns over as normal but won't start ! weird thing is and i don't know if either of you tried but it will bump start easily, also a couple of times when i've been on my own and i haven't got a nuff speed to start it it will start off the key after my attempted bump start ? also it didn't start this morning and i could hear that click from the fuse box (but it don't usally make that noise). When it first started doing it i brought a vag com and it gave fault codes 3 F
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You should be able to tell if the chains are bad by the noise of the engine, you can hear them rattling if you hold the rpm up and listen under the bonnet, theres a recording of the noise it makes about here somewhere. With 90k on the clock if it's had regular oil changes they should be ok Bee...
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I think the reason SimplyVR6 had a moan is Matth76 said "has the chains just been done and someone might have put it back together wrong and the timing might be out by a couple of mm " but with chains the least it can be out is one link which is way more than a couple of mm and it would proberly run like a bag of shit not just a flat spot. But SimplyVR6 should have just pointed that out instead of having a dig at Matth76 That said Matt said his had a flat spot and getting the chains done fixed it which could be right because old chains could streched a small bit knocking the timing out a tad,
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Hi all, I took my deck out yesterday and shorted out the auxilly live and now its dead !, No fuses in the fuse box are blown and i can't work out what's wrong with it, the constant live is ok Does the aux live come directly from the ignition ? i was thinking of seeing it it's live there if it does. Thanks Bee.....
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Well the aux water pump is working so it must be the one on the left ,one down one to go, Anyone? I`ll try taking it out later and see if the pump goes off. Bee..
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Just under the rad expansion tank there a huge million amp fuse which i believe is for the ignition and there are 2 normal fuses above it, the one on the right keeps blowing but i don't know what its for ?,every thing seems to be working. Also what amp fuse should it have cause it's only got a 5amp fuse in it now and that keeps going pop,the fuse on the left has got a 30 amp but that ones fine. Thanks Bee
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[blockquote]Traction Control is only present on early OBD1's ABS systems IIRC[/blockquote] My car's an R plate vr6 and it's got it, and it's crap. I'm also having ABS problem light's on 90% of the time, then every now and then the pump makes a noise and it go's off . Bee..
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I've got the old mechansim somewhere ,i'll find it out and change the motor over cause it must be something to do with the electronics inside it because it never use to do it. Bee
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Not long ago my rear window dropped down and wouldn't go back up, after looking around abit found out it a common problem (the little bit that grips the cable breaks).The stealers do a repair kit but to save pissing around trying to fix it i just went to the scrap yard and got a whole mechanism and swapped it over but since i put the new one in if i turn my alarm on then turn it back of before the indicators have flashed (4 times) just that window go's down *-) anyone know why ? Bee
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Is your car an OBD1 by any chance ? I think only OBD2 have the silver aircon pipe. I think ! *-) Bee..
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It must be heat proof At least if your house burns down it will still look good !lol !lol Bee....
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Glue it ! Bee...
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Rear taillight bulb and rear foglight - what codes?
Bee replied to matth76's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
I can't believe this thread has got into it's second page when it's about changing a bulb ( -
MY CARS over the last 15 years 1st I brought a mini when I was 14 (to do up), my mum went crackers and took it off me. 2nd V reg Austin maxi with a banging system 3rd W reg VW scirocco 4th C reg Vauxhall Cavalier Sri 5th Brought a lada for £15 while I was waiting for my next car it lasted 2 days 6th F reg Astra gte 7th C reg Peugot 205 Gti 8th F reg Renault GT turbo 9th J reg Nissan Sunny Gti-R 10th L reg Corsa Gsi 11th K reg Renault 19 Now R reg VW Golf VR6 Got some pictures of some of them but the normal pictures before my digital camera, might blow the dust of my
