kempj1

Any ideas? Bust relay? faulty earth? short circuit? something come undone? I think it's relay 6 that controls the blinkers, but removing that makes no difference. So it may be a short that's providing power from elsewhere. Dunno. Ignition switch? (that was a recurring problem on my old GTi as the fusebox began to rust) Probably will have to get VW to look at most mechanics don't enjoy this sort of problem. Is this the sort of thing a VAG COM scan can help with?

Please help. Our VR6 was stalled by my wife this morning and suddenly started behaving very strangely. All indicators are lit continuously (not flashing). The immobiliser is no longer working (car can be started without using the immob thing). And the doors lock each time the engine is started. What's going on??!!

Well done on the mot. Well I took mine for a spin late last night and the caliper had loosened itself off. It was a bit frosty in the night though so maybe this freeze/thaw thing has something to do with it. I will not be using the handbrake for a few months though. 39mpg on my way to work this morning, so I think it's fairly safe to say that nothing is binding. I put a road atlas over the handbrake lever :-)

Cheers for getting back Shail. Well it made it through winter (down to -15 now and again) but it started locking up when spring started. Maybe it is similar though. When the water's frozen it can't leak in but then it leaks in when the warmer weather comes. Maybe takes some dirt with it. Come to think of it, the underside of my car must be covered in $hit. I spoke to my mechanic. He reckons he can un lock it and if I don't use the handbrake it'll be fine. Until the mot. At which point is it feasible to only connect one rear brake to the handbrake? Anyone know if that would pass an mot? (I know

Morning team, My 1997 more or less standard Golf VR6 has the same problem 6 months ago. This OEM caliper is less than a year old and is sticking. It happened in exactly the same way as last time. First of all the handbrake seems to develop a bit of play in it - the lever becomes loose for an inch or so before it actually tightens up and applies properly. Even when it applies it feels spongy. The brakes still work fine at this point - no imbalance perceptable at all. Then I have to apply the handbrake hard on a hill and pull it on properly. And that's it. Rear caliper locked. Do you think I'

Thanks My licence is UK though, so I hope that there may be some kind of get out. I think I'll have to pay though :-) They sent me photos. I was doing 109 in an 80. or 65 in a 50 in mph. bugger! One thing I can recommend though is following an HGV. These boys rip it though the twisty roads and know exactly where the cams are. We did this on the way back and it was quite useful. They don't go fast on the straights, but that's alright - good for the fuel consumption :-)

bump.....

Hello folks, We moved to Sweden a year ago, and are currently back in the UK for a holiday. The VR6 has officially been exported, and is now wearing Swedish plates. Our journey back to the UK, travelling across Norway, has thrown up a couple of questions. Incidentally, I am still using a UK licence. I've noticed a few Scandinavians writing on this site, but these questions are definitely open to everyone. Do the road toll companies in Norway have international remit? Can they track people down in other countries and fine them? And similarly, Speed Cameras - can the Norwegians nail me for speed

Thanks for the advice lads. I think I might just go for the VW bulbs. I'm in Sweden and VW dealers are easier to find than LEDs. Found a good guide to fitting the dash bulbs on this VR6OC. Lost the link now but here's a bit of the content: Clocks are easy to remove as there are no drive cables Remove the ABS/Airbag light unit - prize out with blade Push plunger on side of lighting switch to release and expose screw Remove trim on left of clocks to expose second screw Remove both screws securing binnacle surround Drop steering wheel column on adjuster to allow withdrawal of binnacle surround Re

That sounds good - probably cheaper & easier than replacing the actual bulbs. If you could find the thread that would be great. I'm not sure what voltage LEDs are usually, or where to get them, but I suppose you could wire several of them in series to divide the voltage...

Hello folks, so for 2 years I have been driving around with the rev counter lit perfectly and the speedo lit dimly - only one of the 2 lights in the dash were working. Last night the remaining lamp blew. How are these replaced? Has anyone had a similar problem and put in their own DIY solution? Any tips would be well received. BTW my VR is now on Sweden and has been running faultlessly other than this. Starts 1st time at -15 ;-)

Phil, I have a 97 5dr too. I went for koni top adjustables on the front and oem sachs/boge on the back. I thik it's made a good difference, especially when you can stiffen the front end when you feel like it. I'm living in Sweden now and in the winter it's on soft setting most of the time. When I get my summer tyres on though, it'll be set to 1/4 turn from max stiffness. I didn't go for a stiffer rear ARB yet, just sorted the camber settings on the front to make the nose grip more. -1degree40sec makes a big difference. BTW I am running original springs because I did not want to loose any ride

when you get it done give it 1 degree -ve on each side, of maybe even -1.5 => will make it more lively

Big firm - threaten them with legal action? You deserve more than just getting them to fix the problem they created...

That's pretty impressive mate - I obviously don't cane it as hard as you I hit mad speeds most mornings but I can go for miles without really using my brakes properly, but then every now and again when it's time to get everything mad hot they come in very handy. Down the Hartside Pass at full whack for example http://www.visitcumbria.com/pen/hartside.htm