jon@vagworx

Didn't say it was. I suggested it as a cheaper alternative. Lol. I think you interpreted it diferently to what i meant. The avcr will help make you hit your selected boost sooner by holding the gate closed for longer, than using just the spring. Obviously the dta isn't quick enough otherwise it would out perform your bleed valve by miles, which is the same reason why i (and many others) don't use it. Its a boost controller, not a launch cotnrol module, or a full throttle gear change module or anything else. Launch control can be percieved in the same way, whats wrong with throttle and clutch

Lol, you just give it a speed signal and a rev signal and it works out the rest. Easy really.

Sorry, strugle to find the time to get on here these days.

You should be spooling way faster than that mate. Whats the engine specs, exhaust size, internal/external wastegate, intercooler size, turbo a/r etc. Yeah a boost controller will help considerably. I use an apexi AVCR and its the best on the market imo. Heat shielding the turbo won't help much, as your biggest heat problem is the inlet manifold going over the engine and next to the turbo. My To4e makes full boost at 3k, but it is only a .63 ar.

Thats the one they sent me Kev :-( ' date=' They could have told me. Oh well! What you recon? Should I risk it or change to the gaskit to the one your using. Dont want to do the job agian and it isn't very good if they leak. I'll be getting the head skimed and sanding my block with 600grit. What you recon anyway, How much did yours cost, I donno how much i payed for this, did it with the card without asking lol cheers for the help Tom [/quote'] Change it, i've had the same problem before with the Elring ones, the victor reinz ones are about £35 iirc. I wouldn't reccomend 600grit eithe

Don't do it, heard many a horror story about these german parts suppliers and i'm not just saying it because i'm a trader, i bought an exhaust manifold of all i can describe as an expensive paper weight, because it was of no use on an engine. That was a couple of years ago tbh, but from what i've heard.....

The center tunnel is no different to the fwd tunnel, its the boot floor which is different. The prop runs through where the exhaust normally would be, with the exhaust underneath, with a heatshield in between. The prop is 2 piece btw. Also the whole rear beam, fuel tank and suspension is of course different.

They made one for my Syncro, really nice job. You get what you pay for tbh. Altho imo if your cars stock its prob not worth paying the money, as a work of art under your car is pointless unless you have a requirement away from the norm.

It all depends on what you want to do with the engine. If you need more revs then the head will need work, valves, springs, retainers etc. The stock heads aren't great, due to valve sizes. Baisically over 400hp the head becomes a restriction. This isn't a problem, it just means you have to work harder from then on to get decent gains, ie more boost. Theyre are people who run well over 600whp on a stock head, but they have to put the engine under far more stress to get there, than people who have had head work. As kev mentioned, head work gives the advantage of flow, meaning more power from les

Lol, yeah standalone is allways going to be the best option (which is why i've got one) but for people who want a bolt on upgrade its obviously not a feasable option, plus 2k for a charger then atleast another 1k for ecu pushes the cost out of a hell of a lot of peoples reaches. Btw obd2 mafs are easy to change to 4", but obd1's are a bit more involved because of the way they work, you have to be careful about how the air passes through them, so you need a good length of pipe before them so the air can stabilise etc. As kev says, you struggle to get the stock ecu to be anywhere near perfect, b