Jump to content

jon@vagworx

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    113

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by jon@vagworx

  1. jon@vagworx
    Didn't say it was. I suggested it as a cheaper alternative. Lol. I think you interpreted it diferently to what i meant. The avcr will help make you hit your selected boost sooner by holding the gate closed for longer, than using just the spring. Obviously the dta isn't quick enough otherwise it would out perform your bleed valve by miles, which is the same reason why i (and many others) don't use it. Its a boost controller, not a launch cotnrol module, or a full throttle gear change module or anything else. Launch control can be percieved in the same way, whats wrong with throttle and clutch
  2. jon@vagworx
    Lol, you just give it a speed signal and a rev signal and it works out the rest. Easy really.
  3. jon@vagworx
    Sorry, strugle to find the time to get on here these days.
  4. jon@vagworx
  5. jon@vagworx
    You should be spooling way faster than that mate. Whats the engine specs, exhaust size, internal/external wastegate, intercooler size, turbo a/r etc. Yeah a boost controller will help considerably. I use an apexi AVCR and its the best on the market imo. Heat shielding the turbo won't help much, as your biggest heat problem is the inlet manifold going over the engine and next to the turbo. My To4e makes full boost at 3k, but it is only a .63 ar.
  6. jon@vagworx
    Thats the one they sent me Kev :-( ' date=' They could have told me. Oh well! What you recon? Should I risk it or change to the gaskit to the one your using. Dont want to do the job agian and it isn't very good if they leak. I'll be getting the head skimed and sanding my block with 600grit. What you recon anyway, How much did yours cost, I donno how much i payed for this, did it with the card without asking lol cheers for the help Tom [/quote'] Change it, i've had the same problem before with the Elring ones, the victor reinz ones are about £35 iirc. I wouldn't reccomend 600grit eithe
  7. jon@vagworx
    Don't do it, heard many a horror story about these german parts suppliers and i'm not just saying it because i'm a trader, i bought an exhaust manifold of all i can describe as an expensive paper weight, because it was of no use on an engine. That was a couple of years ago tbh, but from what i've heard.....
  8. jon@vagworx
    The center tunnel is no different to the fwd tunnel, its the boot floor which is different. The prop runs through where the exhaust normally would be, with the exhaust underneath, with a heatshield in between. The prop is 2 piece btw. Also the whole rear beam, fuel tank and suspension is of course different.
  9. jon@vagworx
  10. jon@vagworx
  11. jon@vagworx
  12. jon@vagworx
    They made one for my Syncro, really nice job. You get what you pay for tbh. Altho imo if your cars stock its prob not worth paying the money, as a work of art under your car is pointless unless you have a requirement away from the norm.
  13. jon@vagworx
    It all depends on what you want to do with the engine. If you need more revs then the head will need work, valves, springs, retainers etc. The stock heads aren't great, due to valve sizes. Baisically over 400hp the head becomes a restriction. This isn't a problem, it just means you have to work harder from then on to get decent gains, ie more boost. Theyre are people who run well over 600whp on a stock head, but they have to put the engine under far more stress to get there, than people who have had head work. As kev mentioned, head work gives the advantage of flow, meaning more power from les
  14. jon@vagworx
  15. jon@vagworx
    Lol, yeah standalone is allways going to be the best option (which is why i've got one) but for people who want a bolt on upgrade its obviously not a feasable option, plus 2k for a charger then atleast another 1k for ecu pushes the cost out of a hell of a lot of peoples reaches. Btw obd2 mafs are easy to change to 4", but obd1's are a bit more involved because of the way they work, you have to be careful about how the air passes through them, so you need a good length of pipe before them so the air can stabilise etc. As kev says, you struggle to get the stock ecu to be anywhere near perfect, b
  16. jon@vagworx
    Has anyone actually tried solving the problem of the maf going out of its parameters????? Surely you could just increase the size of the maf housing to 4", which is exactly how the yanks run 400hp turbo'd vr's still running stock management and the stock maf sensor.
  17. jon@vagworx
    Totally dissagree with ^^^^^ (sorry) but it has the same overall effect on every car/engine. No doubt in my mind, if i was to do it again it would be with a MAF, Lambda just doesn't react quickly enough and isn't anywhere near reliable enough. My 2p
  18. jon@vagworx
    Is yours with or without aircon?? have you got the tensioner pulley??? Sounds like you could do with a new belt, if its non ac then don't bother with the one that comes with it, use a good quality 7 ribbed belt. You can also put some belt dressing on it which will help no end. Also play about with the tension too. They don't normall give too much problems till you get over 14psi.
  19. jon@vagworx
    You need more coverage of the charger pulley. Does your belt run around the back of the alternator pulley??? If not, do it.
  20. jon@vagworx
    Any thoughts on wideband yet mate???
  21. jon@vagworx
    Lookin good mate. 3" is tight over the rear beam, but if its built right will cause no problem, and the gains are supposed to be well worth the hastle. EGT doesn't have to be accurate as it will change from position to position. Its not the numbers that count, its sudden rises Is your MFA still working???? Tial BOV looks the nuts fella (h)
  22. jon@vagworx
    Have heard people having problems with the probes, ie needing to replace them frequently :-( Which really isn't what i'm after coz i want to run a guage permanantly and these people i hear that seem to have problems only use them to set cars up :-( I've heard that the AEM one is supposed to be quite good, reasonable money too. As for exhaust i would get one made and would be 3". Mine was made by hayward and scott and is superb quality and not too far from you either - http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk/ What are your compressor inlet and outlet sizes??? 2.5" and 3"???
  23. jon@vagworx
    Congrats Kev, sounds like it will be very good when run in Now thats a seriously warm wastgate pipe I've heard of quite a few GT's cracking, they never seem to cause a problem tho, even once their cracked Doesn't appear to be a problem on the RS's tho so you should be fine anyway. How are you getting on with the inovate LC1???? I'm about to buy one or the Zietronix (with the new guage hopefully).
  24. jon@vagworx
  25. jon@vagworx
    Tom, i believe Gruven parts are in the process of making these back plates as we speak, if you don't want to Also, have the leads youv'e made up got similar to the stock ends on with shields??? Can't see why you would want to keep the stock ones, other than that, why pay £80 for crap leads when you can buy gooduns for £30
×
×
  • Create New...