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peter watson

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  1. I work for a large oil refinery in the UK, we supply lo sulphur petrol and diesel to just about every forecourt in the north of the UK, this is simple economics. You go to a shell garage or the bp one across the road and you'll probably be getting the same stuff. The supermarkets are cheaper as they don't play ball with the oil majors and buy from spot markets, so you don't know what your getting there. I run my VR6 on any 95ron as using 98ron cannot justify the price hike, 98ron was initially designed for large high performance engines and should give you a little more torque in a VR6. Ultima
  2. Koni dampers and eibach springs work very well, leave the back soft and tune up the stiffness on the front to get to a point you like. I have got fantastic handling by doing this. Rims are an important part here and if you go to 17" you can get tramlining or the car will tend to want to follow the road camber alot. A good compromise between looks and handling/ride is 16" rims with this sus setup. Pete
  3. A missing clip sounds interesting, I shall investigate. thanks. pete
  4. yes, It was bled a while back when I first had the problem. I cannot stress enough, you really have to push the car to it's absolute limits to get it to break. All the rest of the time it's fine. pete
  5. Hi there, I've just found this site, but owned a 1995 golf vr6 for the last five years. I was wondering if anybody can help with this fault: When the car is driven hard (very hard) after a while the clutch disappears to the floor and I have to force gears in and out at the right revs. i have to then drive like a normal person and the clutch comes back, this can happen on long high speed motorway runs as well but resolves itself at 70ish driving. Without a heavy foot the car always behaves normally? Weird! The car is standard with the exception of koni/eibach suspenders and 16" feet. Any help w
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