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chaffingbuttocks

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Everything posted by chaffingbuttocks

  1. chaffingbuttocks
    easy peasy. unscrewed the door handle from the side of the door. handle just pops out, then get some small fingers in there to pull the "spade" piece and the spring out. replace with new metal spade bit and spring, stick back in and screw. took all of 2 minutes to do really. apparently they changed the piece to a thicker one for 1 year or something, so the kit that they had wasn't compatible.
  2. chaffingbuttocks
    thanks guys, i've contacted the vw spares place here and they sell replacement door handles quite cheap (equivalent of around 20 british pounds), which include all the bits and bobs that i need. apparently i can get a repair kit too but it's not that much cheaper so i might as well just get the whole handle. shouldn't be too much effort to replace it i hope.. sounds quite easy to do. unscrew and remove the handle, switch the lock barrel, put it back in.. voile! (i hope) cheers.
  3. chaffingbuttocks
    hi guys, my driver door doesn't lock or unlock with the key. there's nothing wrong with the key, or the central locking, as it works fine from front passenger. i removed the trim and had a look, and i can see that inside the bit that rotates when i turn my key is not connected to the plastic bit with the spring (i.e. it turns, but it isn't connected to anything). what do you think would be the best approach to fix this? is it easy enough to get the whole lock replaced? or can i just glue it back together? if it's going to cost a lot of money (and i assume it is) should i just get an alarm ins
  4. chaffingbuttocks
    i just had something strange happen with my electric windows. the rear passenger side one goes down, but doesn't go back up. i pulled the trim out and checked, and when i push the "close" button, the cabling actually moves, but it doesn't pull the window up. the strange thing is that i can pull the window down and up by grabbing it, but if i wind the window down, then i can't pull it up above as far as it's wound down. any ideas? i'm stuck (after poking around for about half an hour)
  5. chaffingbuttocks
    hm. i have noticed that lately, my ABS light has been acting up.. and when the light is on (i.e. abs is off), i'm not getting the grinding.. is it possible that the ABS is functioning when i'm just driving normally? the pedal grind when braking is similar to ABS although i discounted it because i'm sure i saw before when the light was on, it still did it. only lately, when the warning light has been on consistently, has the grinding disappeared..
  6. chaffingbuttocks
    i think it might be something related to the suspension? the sound is not audible outside the car, but as it occurs when going over speed bumps, on an incline, or turning at reasonable speed (there is some body roll) it leads me to believe that the movement in the wheel in relation to the body is causing it. The mechanic also said he couldn't get the car to grind when he had it up on the hoist, when the wheels were relaxed... does this sound feasible?
  7. chaffingbuttocks
    Hi guys, Recently, i've been hearing a sick grinding sound that is similar to what you'd get if you tried to change gears on a manual car when the clutch wasn't fully in. I can also feel the vibration through the pedals (both the accelerator and the brake - it's an automatic so no clutch). but it sounds more muffled when i have my foot on the brake in comparison to the accelerator. Here's what i know so far : it's not the cv joint, front diff, brakes, wheels or transmission. they were all checked out by the mechanic and left cv was replaced (slightly worn) but didn't solve the problem. it hap
  8. chaffingbuttocks
    1 scan, 8 hours of labour and $600 later, the problem turned out to be a dry connection in the ECU. the solution? some solder.. and now to pass my warrant i need to get my ABS warning light to work too... and replacing the bulb didn't work so looks like i gotta get a new warning light unit..
  9. chaffingbuttocks
    I assume the battery was flat for ages, as it was on a boat for 2 weeks and it arrived flat. I have contacted 3 VW service places here and they have told me different things. one told me that the transponder in the keys need to be recoded to match the immobiliser, and another said that it can't be the keys cause it wouldn't start at all, so i will take it to a car electrician to diagnose the problem.
  10. chaffingbuttocks
    hi, thanks for the quick responses. This car does not have an alarm (not sure if it had an immobiliser unless it comes standard). I just imported this car, and when it arrived, the battery was dead so I changed it and it worked once, then not again till i disconnected the battery for a few minutes. Is it possible that the flat battery has screwed the immobiliser or the ecu chip? I heard that when you replace the batteries on certain cars, sometimes the ecu chip doesn't reset properly and it has some funky problems?
  11. chaffingbuttocks
    Hi there. I just bought a VR6, got a new battery and the car starts and goes fine once, but once you switch it off, when you turn the ignition, it revs for about 2 seconds then dies. have found that after the engine is disengaged, there is a little round plastic thing attached to the back right of the engine with a lot of cables going in on the right, and coming out on the left (going in under the engine cover area) that makes a whirring noise that doesn't stop. I have pictures but don't know how to post them. When i disconnect the battery for at least a few minutes, i am able to start the car
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