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paul_c

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Everything posted by paul_c

  1. You unplug the plugs, detatch it from the cable clips then pull the wire free of the car. (I'm surprised nobody was able to answer this already???)
  2. I think I went against an R32 at some stage, I could have a rummage through my timing slips if you like.... EDIT: Just found them - don't quote me on this because I can't remember exactly the car was and I have no idea if it had mods, but I think it was Mk4 R32. I achieved 14.54 and he achieved 14.23. It was car H27 at GTI Festival.
  3. Hi Russ' date=' I agree ! Claire's had the 264 Schricks fitted in her R32 now, it goes very well [/quote'] Is 14.4 classed as "goes very well"???? I achieved this with nothing more sinister than a Mk1 with a 2.0 16V. Currently building another Mk1 with a VR6 engine conversion. I thought getting into 13s would be more like the R32 performance? Was it at a recognised drag strip, with a decent track and proper timing gear etc???
  4. Any decent recommendarions for a nice cam, not too costly, when you don't need to worry about a cat, and can go for longer duration/overlap?
  5. Did a bit more background reading and found a comprehensive guide on how-to change the chains and tensioners. The author had a damaged upper tensioner but the lower one was fine. So, I took off the inlet manifold and cam cover, lucky I did because I found the upper guide rail damaged. Is it reasonable to change the guides, but leave the original chains if they're okay? The damage [img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03791reducedandcropped.jpg Worn but not too bad - maybe 0.4mm most of the way along its length it rubs. You can also see the damage to the guide ra
  6. PS Forgot to mention, the hydraulic tensioner was around 2/3 the way through the extent of its travel, when I removed it.
  7. Now taken the cover off, need to check if the chain and guides need replacing or if there's plenty of life left in them. [img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03772reduced.jpg Area B has a little wear, tapering from nothing to maybe 0.3mm next to zone A. Most of the wear is in area A, which is nearest the crank. It tapers from area B to near the end, from around 0.3mm to 0.8mm. Any ideas guys? [img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03773croppedwithlabels.jpg Also, do you need to remove the (top) cam cover, to reach a couple of bolts
  8. No time pressure, so I can order the seals I break, on Monday. Just realised the flywheel has to come off, to get to all the cover bolts, and I didn't have the relevant tool to undo the bolts. So it looks like this is "to be continued" tomorrow.
  9. Well, I'm on a break, I've just removed the gearbox so I might whip off the cam chain cover and post a pic, for you to cast your expert eyes over, if that's okay?
  10. PS I drove the car only for a couple of minutes - the nature of the crash meant the radiator was trashed, so there was no coolant in the car. In those couple of minutes, it didn't grumble or make any unusual noises (to my inexperienced in VR6 ears).
  11. I'm half way through an engine conversion. Well I say half way, probably more like 5% done. The engine and transmission (and a host of other parts) are now removed from the donor car, which was a Cat C write off, 1998 Golf VR6, 109,000 miles and no service history. I am planning to split the engine and transmission and look at the clutch, I'm happy enough to be able to look at that and determine if its been replaced recently, or has plenty of life left in it. But what other parts should I be looking at? Are there any known weaknesses, for example oil cooler, electric water pump? Obviously ther
  12. Well, the project's finally underway, with the new arrival Awwww cute. The new arrival. Cat C write off. Under the bonnet Here's another pic, showing the main area of damage. The airbox and rad are trashed, but the chassis legs, engine and alternator all made it unscathed. Phew! Watch this space......
  13. Well I'm back, after 1½ years or so..... Basically, what happened was, after a lot of research, I really stumbled upon the issue of making the exhaust manifold, and with other wiring issues and my lack of experience, I decided to do a 2.0l 16V conversion on my Mk1 Golf instead. This took quite a long time, partly because I took on a lot of other 'general restoration' work of the front end, partly because it was done outdoors through winter time, and partly because I was a little unlucky with breaking some parts that shouldn't have broken! Anyway, its done now and I've used the car a little, i
  14. Doesn't that just reduce power though? So, the statement that you can only get 400bhp in 1st or 2nd, or whatever, still applies.
  15. Many thanks for the offer! Was your car at Edition 38, I remember seeing a Jetta with a VR6 there. Unfortunately, the only way you could help out right now is by lending me a lot of money :S The 'general' renovation of the car took way longer than first anticipated and has cost thousands, so I now have the car back on the road, but the engine is still a 1.8. After having reviewed a lot of engine conversions and the many choices for the Mk1 Golf, I'm still going to eventually put a VR6 in, except that I'll probably end up using a manual box.
  16. Another plus point for an auto in a drag race, is that an automatic car might be able to achieve a better heating of the tyres, by being able to do a burnout and spin the front wheels quicker. You could probably do a burnout in 2nd gear on a manual car; but an auto can spin the tyres and also do an upchange under full power during the burnout. Until someone pits a similarly powered auto car against a manual, its a bunch of relative factors, though!
  17. Given a decently sized (power) engine, the auto transmission shouldn't 'overpower' the engine like it can do in a smaller car. I realise it will not give numerically better manual-transmission cars, but I am after consistency, not necessarily lowest 1/4 mile times. I'd be interested to know views from a number of owners, whether the auto transmission really is markedly weaker/shorter lasting than the manual (bearing in mind, the car will probably be driven 2000 miles/year and not see much track action). I know the Mk1 is a 'classic' but I am not changing its external appearance at all, also th
  18. Basically, for consistency in 1/4 mile runs. With a manual gearbox and clutch, and a high power FWD car, there is some skill in applying just enough torque to keep traction and make the best time. And each gearchange must be done the same way. By using an auto, the 'launch' is much more consistent (even if you wheelspin, you'd only have to learn one aspect, throttle application) and the gear changes are naturally going to be consistent too, assuming a full throttle and change-up performed at the red line. Also in the back of my mind is adding a nitrous kit, later on, should the existing power/
  19. Many thanks. I have already visited that website, it has proved very useful (lots of pics!) The guy makes it sound easy, I'm sure its not that easy though.
  20. Hi, I am hoping someone can help out with this conversion, maybe someone who has done it before and knows of specific pitfalls and where to obtain parts which might be needed. I have a Mk1 Golf (GTI) at the moment, and I am seeking to purchase a complete VR6 auto. I have already done a bit of research and here are some issues: 1. I'll be needing to weld in engine mounts into the Mk1 bodyshell (if I have the complete donor car, I can cut them out and re-use?). 2. I'd need to source an OBD1 VR6, to avoid the in-built immobiliser int he ECU? 3. Does it matter what the donor car is? Golf, Corrado
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