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Philly-R6

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Everything posted by Philly-R6

  1. Philly-R6
    The crackly radio could be simply the speakers distorting as they break down with age. They may look fine, but the outer soft bit that mounts the cone to the frame decays so the sound is not correctly produced (or no sound at all!). => Inspect your speakers before going much further with this issue. If you have a spare speaker, connect it and see if the sound improves? The brake system has two indicators on the dash: Brake System Brake pad wear indicator (this is an option) The brake system light comes on with the handbrake OR if the brake
  2. Philly-R6
    Ooh, that's in interesting error code! 17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) That code does point to timing chain - as you have replaced the sensors. The chains could have stretched if they are due - check the mechanical timing after cleaning your throttle body, before spending more money?
  3. Philly-R6
    Hi Ben, What is the actual error code for the camshaft sensor? You can look it up on the Ross Tech wiki for further inspiration: 00515 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) You could also have an air leak (at some point after the MAF sensor). Maybe way too much air for the fuel? Also, could the throttle body be clogged with dirt? I don't know how those throttle bodies handle idling. Phil
  4. Philly-R6
    You are correct - it is the blue wire on the yellow sender. The Black sender is to tell the ECU the temperature. These sensors vary their resistance according to temperature - when cold there will be a big resistance, when hot there will be a low resistance. Guage and Instrument Testing with Special Tool VW 1301 (bentleypublishers.com) To prove the gauge works, short pins 2 and 3 on the yellow connector with a paper clip (or similar) and see if the gauge indicates full hot. Once the gauge works, check the resistance across pins 2 and 3 of the yellow sen
  5. Philly-R6
    Can't go wrong with a Karmann Ghia! I always fancied putting an Impreza Turbo engine in one, but that will remain just a dream for me.. Keep us posted!!
  6. Philly-R6
    One hell of a prospect! What are you thinking of putting it in? Have you got parts, or a donor car already? I have no experience of the W12, only OBD1 VR6's. But don't underestimate the work involved to mount the engine and transmission into a different car. Be honest with yourself that there is a plan/skill/money/motivation to complete the project. Watching car shows do a custom car in one hour is in reality many months of teams of people working full time. I had a cursory look on eBay for W12's and they are big money: Engine £3500, transmission £2000, plus ancillari
  7. Philly-R6
    Hi, This is a photo from my 1995 VR6 before I touched it - hope it helps.
  8. Philly-R6
    I have been using VCDS on the ABS and engine controllers, and it works well for me - very reliable.
  9. Philly-R6
    I would say the ABS sensors are fine - unless you are getting specific errors? I would have gone the same route as you (service the pump) given those errors. But as the pump is known to be good (by Bba-reman), put that in the car. I found an old photo of the ABS pump showing the connectors: Pump, Ballast Resistor and Actuator Electricals underneath. The harness goes through the bulkhead to the right of the pump. At risk of offending you - you are clearing the errors and they subsequently return?
  10. Philly-R6
    Good to know your pump is ok, though! http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 Your first code could be due to dirty contacts within the connectors. The ABS control module is located behind the plastic trim in the passenger footwell, (between the door and bulkhead). Three plastic nuts hold it to the car body, and the connector has a metal bar that draws the connector in. Disconnect that plug from the controller and re-connect it and see if the errors re-appear. Also check the contacts are free from dirt or corrosion. There is also a connector o
  11. Philly-R6
    Hi, There are a few online part catalogues which you can use to identify the part you mean (I'm not too familiar with the Mk4). Here is the page illustrating the rear bumper on a Mk4 Golf 4Motion: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/drive_standart/684/hg_ug/807/subcategory/807050/part_id/3684620/lang/e Then once you know what the manufacturer calls it, you could: # look on ebay # try any scrap yards local to you # or even write a post under Wanted on this forum! Have fun
  12. Philly-R6
    Hi, I stumbled across this link - it may shed some light for you? http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5/4.2/BentleyPublishers.com_Audi_A6_C5_4.2L_Secondary_Air_Injection_Maintenance.pdf and a layout picture on Vortex for the AFP engine: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4270565-mk4-sai-vac-line-diagram-or-picture&p=56023102&viewfull=1#post56023102 Have fun!
  13. Philly-R6
    I'm not familiar with the Mk4. Here is a snippet for BUB engine code (pre 06):
  14. Philly-R6
    This is a snippet from the Golf Mk3 VR6 (95 on) wiring diagram: What car are you referencing?
  15. Philly-R6
    Is the fan spinning gently (stage 1), or fast (stage 2)? Did you follow the fan test on the linked post: 1. Take the plug off the rad sender 2. Take the plug off the black temp sender in the stat housing. 3. Switch ignition on. In the rad sensor plug - red wire is stage 1, thin red/black is stage 2. The other wire is the common connection. Bridge each of the two wires in turn across the common wire and see if both speeds come on. If they do, good. 4. Bridge the black plug with a paper clip or something, does stage 3 come on? Sounds uber loud! Did your fans behave as expect
  16. Philly-R6
    VAG COM (now called VCDS) won't help here - other than seeing what the ECU thinks the coolant temperature is. The radiator/fan system is simple - if one of the sensors thinks the coolant is too hot, turn the fan on. Your answer is in that post: you just have to follow the instructions on how to check each sensor in turn.
  17. Philly-R6
    It does sound like one of your temperature sensors is "iffy". There is a comprehensive post regarding the cooling system over on the-corrado.net: https://the-corrado.net/topic/38215-the-definitive-vr6-cooling-guide/ The post explains what the various sensors do and how to identify them (it makes reference to early and late VRs - yours would be late).
  18. Philly-R6
    I'm not familiar with the Mk4. You mention an EPC light? What is that? I would read any error codes and see if that suggests something. In fact, does EPC mean Electronic Pedal Control - Something on the brake pedal? https://uk-mkivs.net/topic/79835-epc-light/ ^ This thread indicates it could be the "switch" on the brake pedal or the car battery.
  19. Philly-R6
    Hi Fleety, Any errors reported in the ECU? Your problem can only be fuel or spark (I guess air is fine?!). To check for fuel: Crank the engine (and if it doesn't start...) Take spark plugs out and see if they smell of fuel. If they do you must have fuel getting to the cylinder(s). If you don't, you need to investigate why. To check for spark: Remove a spark plug and ground the outside and re-connect the HT lead. Crank the engine and see if you can see a spark across the contacts. To fine tune the actual p
  20. Philly-R6
    Snap the light cluster out to get to the bulbs and trace the connection back? If you have a multimeter you can pop the car in reverse with the ignition on and check for 12v across the pins you suspect. If you don't have a meter, try a 12v bulb with some long wires on...
  21. Philly-R6
    Hi Xolani, On board diagnostics started out being primarily engine emission control. The later version OBD-2 specifies the diagnostic socket (by the ashtray on this model) plus other standard functions. The connector in earlier versions could be anything suitable.
  22. Philly-R6
    Also... VR6Pete wrote a good Cooling System overview here:
  23. Philly-R6
    Hi, Have you tried squeezing the top hose with your hand? Try it with the engine off and it will be squidgy. Idle the engine and you should feel more resistance than before. More resistance and the pump is pumping - if its the same, investigate the water pump. If still in doubt undo one of the coolant pipes to the throttle body and try briefly with the engine on? If coolant is pumping, it should pump out...
  24. Philly-R6
    You are correct about the engine speed sensor: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00513 - see Special Notes Your cause is probably the O2 sensor: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00525 This is where you should start investigating. You may need to clean it? Then check the Camshaft position sensor: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00515 Good luck!
  25. Philly-R6
    Given your good compression, the piston rings/bores and valves are sealed well. So where is the oil coming from?? Take the inlet manifold off and see if it is full of oil? Is the breather blocked or is there too much oil in the sump?
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