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magentaham

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Everything posted by magentaham

  1. magentaham
    Good springs are a must!!! I don't know if you have anybody that deals with Isky Racing Cams over there but they do have a nice hot early 1.8 GTI spring set.(right...same as VR) Less $$$ than Cat or Schreck. Also cam lift must be limited to .450 without new springs....Coil bind! The solids for VR are identical to early solids except on the underside they have a little stem that sticks down to actually open the valve. About .300 inch.. the lifters are also more heavy than a hyd. lifter hense hotter springs.
  2. magentaham
    I've seen this before, when the engine was assembled at vw they may have dropped the piston on it's head. It probably showed no damage so they put it together, but the top ring would no longer move free in the ring land creating a real HOT spot on the piston and high speed detonation. The hot spot is easy to see in your pix, where the piston is burned down to the skirt. This is also assuming the other 5 are ok. Luck of the draw...I'd be real suprised if anything is wrong with the rest of your engine.....a slow death...
  3. magentaham
    www.jrponline.com, canada sells them, $$$ 58.00 (US) each. same tappet shims as the pre '84 vw engines. Most all the solid lifter cams are way too hot for electronic injection, so if you really want to play in the 6000 to 9000 rpm range you'll have to have a set of stock hyd cams reground. I spent alot of time trying to find a solid cam that would work with the electronics. Finally had Nelson Racing Cams do kind of the old euro profile.(420 lift, 272 dur) Then you find yourself bouncing off the rev limiter. The engine likes the solids but then your stock induction system won't feed it past ab
  4. magentaham
    I can't be alot of help. There seems to be alittle difference between US and Euro spec cars. However, unpluging the battery does nothing to the ECU except causing you to have to reset your readiness codes. Usually done by driving or your vagcom software. Also with such a heavy duty cycle on the injectors the ECU could interpet off idle rpm with low air flow through the Mass sensor and freek trying to figure whats going on. For your sake I hope your new ECU sorts it out. As Tom said check your wires and look for a air leak behind the sensor, intake ect...
  5. magentaham
    Just an opinion....over fueling to the point of stalling and raspy idle usually comes with "A LOT" of black smoke at the tail pipe. Overheating of "cat" is a LEAN burn rather than FAT.(like a partal plugged fuel filter) When you replaced the MAF did you inspect the rubber tube connecting it to the inlet.A small rip or tear will make you crazy. The US cars will run with the lambda completly disconnected. True, your milage suffers, but idle and speed are ALMOST unaffected. Get a can of starting fluid, in the morning when your little whatnot is cool, start it, and take a couple shots with it, at
  6. magentaham
    over here Corrado is all by itself. Won't fit anything but Corrado....
  7. magentaham
    Something for you VR owners who are just trying to keep your little whatnot running and happy. Here in the States, Ford parts are at least 25-30% less expensive than VW. If its the same in the UK and whatnot has some slobbering injectors try a Ford Part #FOTE-D5B. Bright yellow top, might even be built by bosch, don't know...But there a perfect replacement 1 on or by the set. This is not hearsay. My Passat VR at about 121,000 got that social disease that make your injector drip...(3 out of 6) rotton idle ect!! I put the D5B's in, no more problems. (d)
  8. magentaham
    Kinda makes you wonder how all that goopy crap fits in such a small space!! lol!
  9. magentaham
    So does the mk3 have a 5 speed or auto?? Big electronic hassel to go from man. trans to auto. If man. stay man. lots more fun. Autos are ok till the electronics start up the spout, then alot of money to sort out. (just a personal opinion)
  10. magentaham
    ok, Fat cams, most have a grind profile based on natural aspration, ie, no stuffer.(turbo or charger) In order to achieve a longer duration the valve must open farther and farther away from top dead center. Also the exhaust opens earler and longer. just to pull some figures out of the air... Intake opens 20 deg befor TDC, closes 15 deg. after BDC(bottom dead center) Exhaust opens 20 deg. befor BDC, and closes 15 deg. after TDC. So as the piston comes up on exhaust stroke almost to TDC, you have BOTH valves open at the same time(35 deg.) At idle the spent exhaust gets pushed into the oncommin
  11. magentaham
    Jay, I'm not a good teacher. Try this, Crank turns 360 degrees per 1 rpm. It has to turn twice per cylinder fire.Intake(180 deg.)compression (180 deg.) power (180 deg.) exhaust (180 deg.) Total 720 deg. Lawn mower engines have a cam that opens at top dead center and closes at bottom dead center. Don't make alot of power but enough to do the job. Engine builders found that if the valve starts to open befor TDC when the piston starts down on intake the valve is open far enough that the piston would actually suck more air,fuel in, making more power, and if the valve actually closed after bottom d
  12. magentaham
    There is no real short explanation. The 268, 264 numbers are degrees of crankshaft travel the valve is off it's seat. Most cam grinders have pretty well established the valve has to be off the seat about .050 inch to establish airflow so the actual open duration is more like 224, 218. The lift number, .410, .425, .456 is how far open the toe of the cam opens the valve. You also have a centerline figure. Somewhere between .110 and .117 this effects what is known as overlap. The smaller the number, more, larger, less. More overlap causes the engine to lope at an idle and raises cain with your em
  13. magentaham
    OK Pete, if I may break in on this thread. Schrick intake is a big gold bar in cost. Do they tell you how many more CFM in air they will flow over stock? Or are they just playing with runner length and air volocity?
  14. magentaham
    Normal,nothing to fret
  15. magentaham
    Andy: it's a treet... My corrado was running 270F to 290F over here in the summer at 90mph in 110F. Tryed New Demension cooler kit, bummer...also 2 others by US after market builders, bummers... finally built my own abortion. 1990 Audi single oilfilter adapter into a XJS jag cooler. Its alot of work. I can't say if it will fit in a UK car. Haven't seen more than 238F (stomping along at 100mph in Nev.) In lu of following in my footsteps use a good sin. oil. They don't start to break down till they hit a min. of 400F. Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple are all good for 480F+. Some of the guys on th
  16. magentaham
    VW G50 synthetic oil, SAE 75W90 (very expensive) I personally use Mobil 1 syn 75W90. Just about any good syn. is ok. You probably got some petrolum base gear oil...
  17. magentaham
    Ok buy the book! Assuming that you have the cam lock bar and shims, and you have removed the injection pump drive gear, and removed the pump from the engine. The injection pump is keyed to the gear. Install the injection pump into the rear support and loosely tighten the conical nut.(the nut allows the pump to be moved to adjust injection timing). Position the pump in the front mounting bracket so that it is roughly centered in the elongated holes. Hand tighten in this position. Install the injection pump sprocket and woodruff key, insert lock pin and tighten nut(55Nm). Camshaft should be lock
  18. magentaham
    Hey Kilo: didn't mean to dupe the information, your post was not there when I did mine. i think? good beer maybe?? Well he's got the right place to look anyway....
  19. magentaham
    I have a TDI manual and I've never had this particular problem. If you can hold up till tomorrow night, I'll get you some answers. It's 9:30 pm here, I think about 1 am over there. Oh, just stay up late!!!
  20. magentaham
    Yes, the oilfilter...plastic bottom, alu. housing. At the top of the housing there are three oil pressure switch. They can spring leaks as they age. Only leak when the engine is running and make a nasty mess. You can usually check them with a mirror and flashlight, looking in from the top. If it's one of them, they are not very expensive, but can be a pill to change. They have a part# stamped on them. They used to be color coded but that changed in "94.(blue, brown then brown, brown, then brown black, who can keep up??)
  21. magentaham
    Stock VR cams are: .400" lift/220 duratiom@1mm or 215 duration @ .050" (1992-1999) after 99 can't really say just yet. Just got a GTI 2001 "E" series head, cam lift measured .405" no durarion spec yet. You can bet the VW boys haven't changed them much if at all. Part # 021 109 101 A&M, N&B, ect,ect. Different letters, but no change....
  22. magentaham
    Petesvw: cheers to you!
  23. magentaham
    Gone stiff??? Rigor perhaps....
  24. magentaham
    Katie, On US cars the hall sensor is the cam sensor,(timming chain end of engine, rear) obd1 cars,in the distributor.The engine speed sensor is down by the oil cooler. Lambda is in the exhaust piping(has nothing to do with the car starting, helps control air/fuel mix after warm up)I'd start with cleaning up the hall sensor, if that doesn't cure the hard start, get a new one. Also on some VW if the engine isn't running when they do the vagcom it will set a false engine speed sensor fault. The hall sensor would be my first stop. After you get the starting problem sorted, if your KM per gal is st
  25. magentaham
    Duh!! long night. I mean 1.8, 8 valve.....
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