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magentaham

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Everything posted by magentaham

  1. magentaham
    Can you guys get Beck-Arnley over there??? I've put in tons of them and if the oil pump isn't up the spout never had a problem. Also the VW 1.8 12V lifter is the same. I've found if you order up 12 1.8 lifters you buy them for less than VR6s' (same part, go figure???)
  2. magentaham
    Iridium! If you get a deal on NGK there's nothing better. Over here with our crap gas (92 ron)(best you can get in the states unless you coinup and buy AV gas), on a hot day 110F the knock sensor doesn't keep up. Electrodes loose there sharp cormers very quickly. Bosch plats electrodes disappear up there ceramic centers. The two, three, and four electrode plugs don't last any longer than a good single. Iridium is the hardest plug electrode that can be had, and any first year chem student can tell you it will take the heat.
  3. magentaham
    Katie, spare me please for suggesting the hard befor the easy. On the first start of the day, sit in your car and turn the key on but dont crank it. Fuel pump comes on right??? assuming it does, turn it off for 5 seconds, then back on. Do this 4 times, on the 4th try the starter. Did it crank as much to start or did it start any quicker?? I would suggest doing this first!!! That is befor burning the hair off your arm with starting fluid, getting high smelling raw gas, and starting you heart with electric shock!!(all good suggestions though) LUCK!!
  4. magentaham
    Kat, feel like the simple but dangerous?? The first thing you need to do is figure out if its fuel or electrical. Get yourself a can of starting fluid(used on diesels) Take the rubber tube off the throttel body inlet. Prop the throttel open with your thumb and give the intake about a 2-3 second snort.NO MORE THAN THAT!!! Jump in the car and key it up. If it still just cranks over and doesn't start immediatly, look at spark system. If it does cough snort or start even if only for a second or two its fuel related. Low pump pressure, or maybe the filter sock at the pump isn't happy.(got a fuel fi
  5. magentaham
    Wow!!! Musta smelled like burning cat fur!!!
  6. magentaham
    Kev's got it right! Just one thing though, as far as crank timming goes. Your crank and intermedate shaft are timed 1 to 1. Doesnt matter how many times you turn the crank, at top dead #1 the inter shaft is always on perfect time, now if during whatever you're doing you remove the lower chain then you have to do the whole setup again. As Kev said, front pully on the dot, #1 piston at dead stop top of the hole, or timming pointer on flywheel to pointer on bellhousing, lock the cams put it together. Also remember the connecting rods have indents on the big end.(in other words a front and a rea
  7. magentaham
    You know I'd just love to help you sort it out, but we have a big pond between us. Makes for an interesting drive to get to my shop. However, I can tell you what I've had to do on several VR's at 100K+. Including my own. The oil pump. The pump doesn't actually fail but the relief valve wears in the cavity in the lower part of the pump. I have no less than 6 pumps with junk relief valves. They don't pump enough pressure on startup to even pressure up the lifters. More rpm, more pressure, quiets dowm. My corrado with 177K had 3.5 bar on cold start up I figured probably bearings. (I don't drive
  8. magentaham
    Some questions....How many miles(km) on yours? Any idea what your oil pressure actually is? Corrados (most of them)have a gauge. (0-10 bar) I honestly don't know what UK cars have for gauges. US VW's... fuel and coolent temp. Somtimes a gauge cluster with MAF but not many of them around.
  9. magentaham
    Is your main waterpump a VW origional?? You know the one...with the mica impellers that break off 1, 2, or the whole impeller, or is it an aferthefact with a steel impeller??
  10. magentaham
    If you can post the year of your car and mod. and year of the TDI I can run numbers, but I'm almost 100% sure the transplant will be rejected!
  11. magentaham
    Some more detail...there are 2 oil pressure fed plungers(pistons if you will) one at the head, one just up from the crank bolted to the block. The one at the head is usually the noise. After your car sits for a period of time(usually 4 or more hours) the piston will bleed off. This allows the upper chain tensioner to flap in the breeze when you start your car. That short period of time is just how long it takes to build pressure again taking up the slack. Now mind you this is not bad. If you have had your chains replaced, usually you dont change the tensioner piston. If its a problem you can
  12. magentaham
    We'll go into a little more detail. Early VR (92-95) had a oil filter with a bypass valve spot welded in the center of the filter. Several of the cars I've played with had very bad engine failures when the bypass valve pops off and gets pushed (with oil pressure)into the outbound oil galley. Because the oil warning senders are on the oil filter houseing the driver never knows there is no oil getting to the engine. Toast!!! I'm in the process of overhauling one of those engines. To make a long story short the engine ran long enough to destroy the two bushings. My parts cd has the same info as y
  13. magentaham
    The intermediate shaft in the VR6 (Runs the oil pump drive) has two bushings. The only way to buy these bushings is to take a gold bar to VAG and buy a whole engine block. The part numbers are #021 521 9583 & #026 501 3488. Could I impose on one of you in the UK to call your local VAG parts store and see if they may be purchased over there?? These are US part numbers and may be different in the UK. They are not shown on the US parts cd. I took the numbers off the bushings.
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