6potmkII
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Everything posted by 6potmkII
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1997 2.8 obd2 with 83k in a mk2 mods include: zr2 charger @ 6.5 psi 268 cams 6 branch bosch red top injectors exhaust with no cat 8mm magnecor leads 4 bar fpr low temp stat 16v plugs stealth remap (with maf) made 278.3bhp @ 6710 rpm and 236lbft @ 5500 rpm
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oh yeh deff change the rocker cover gasket. and u may need a new sprocket for the exhaust side cam, the nut was in there on mine was soooo tight. i took it to a friend who has an engineering company, we put it in a massive vice, with the biggest tools, and broke 3 tools before the nut came out. had do cut and drill it out demolishing the cam lol the spare engine im rebuilding in the garage also had the same problem. but i just left that one for now. you might not come accross this problem i did my mates cams, and there was no problem, half drive and a long bar done it but just incase... sprock
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i might b mistaken, but im sure i read somewhere the can be used??? my mate has one stting in his garage, could it be of any use/advantage to me? cheers
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mine was on 81k, fitted 268's on there own without any problems noises etc if ur tappets are noisy, might aswell change them
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SantaPod Run What You Brung night racing Oct 14th & 15TH
6potmkII replied to J5KE F's topic in Previous Events
when is everyone running saturday night or sunday??? -
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"25:00 vag chip off flea bay???
6potmkII replied to vr6newcomer's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
could be tricky as theres no point raising the limiter if the fueling and ignition timing isnt correct for the higher revs... i geuss if there over fueling a little, better than running lean -
i always thought bhp is how hard the engine can work or how much work can be done, and torque is like how much force (pulling power) it creates whilst workin this hard.... so for example, lets say an obd2 creates 190bhp @ 6200rpm. according to the equation, if you re-arrange it: torque = 190 x 5252 / 6200 = 160.9 lbft thats probably not the max torque output of the engine, but thats around how much torque it will create at 6200 with 190bhp... standard vr's tend to make peak torque at about 4200rpm if im not mistaken?? so at around 4200rpm, engine aint gona be working at its hardest, so lets s
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which one did you download for obd2 plug and after u download it it works straight away? free? iv got access to cables.... so all i need is one of the downloads from the above link? cheers
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where did that 306 come from!! my next move will be taking the battery in the boot, as mk2vr6 seems a bit too front end heavy, especialy with the charger too. GVK what did you do about the sump? did u get a baffled sump? (if so, where from) or did u tap it urself....
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nice one kev
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hi guys as above really, wheres the best/cheapest place to arp conrod bolts from? cheers
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also forgot to add, when you buy the mk2, make sure its 1990 onwards. this way the engine loom goes staight into the fuse box. also, if its a 16v, you will already have the drive shafts (cant use 8v ones), and upgrading brakes will be easier too. the have bigger brake master cylinder than the 8v and the hubs will allow you to fit 280mm g60 calipers and carriers or 312mm TT ones. so imo '95 onwards mk3 vr6 or corrado vr6 and 1990 onwards mk2 16v. u might not want to buy 2 whole cars as it may work out expensive, but i searched hard enuff and found rear ended '97 highline which worked out v.che
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best thing to do mate, is buy a doner car. this is what i did and ul have every part u need apart from a corrado pedal box (if you buy a mk3 donar). this way u can also sell bits off the mk3 an get back some of the money. if you buy an obd1, it might be slightly easier as you wont need the transponder box, chipped key etc etc BUT.... id try and go for obd2, as they have better ecu's with coilpack and tend to create slightly more power.... give us a shout if you need help or get stuck
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same mods i had on my mk2 vr before it was charged. if the engines healthy, id guesstimate around the 200-205bhp mark and around 190lbft....
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cooper S with the works upgrade are very nippy and haddle very good. i sumtimes get to test drive them if i work on one at work. they batter the standard ones....
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iv learnt the hard way not to buy pattern/or copy parts there sh*te mate...
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i think the ecu software is not as good and it proccess's information slower if im not mistaken
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when was the last full service? could be any of the following: leads afm coilpack old plugs/loose plugs cam sensor get it on a diagnostics machine, if its the afm or cam sensor it will come up as a fault code.... if not, id bet my money on leads. i may be wrong but im jus talkin from the past experiance i had. hope this helps
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Starting problems driving me crazy!
6potmkII replied to NetStable's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
sounds like its taking a while for fuel to get in there.... maybe a weak pressure at the rail... i had this problem but its probably differant to yours as its in a mk2. when i had the mk2 8v fuel pump, started staright away.... then changed to mk2 16v fuel pump and it took ages for it to start 1st time, but staright away the 2nd time. the problem disappeared when i went charged, as i put the acumilater on the 16v pump (this is like a little reservour on the mk16v pump that holds fuel, keeps pressure up) and 4 bar fuel pressure reg. the above may not be relative to you but what im tryin to say -
oh yeh, yes i did mate as it goes, with empty engine bay...
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i think thats the one that gave me the demonstration of his dump valve! m jacket was blowin back matrix style, and the suger off my doughnut was blowin in my face. felt like i put my head and shoulders out the sunroof at 140mph!! amazing that was. charged r32 in a mk2, must b flippin rapid
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mate that number plate is rubbish, sell it to me as my mk2's on a J plate nice car mate my missus is also lookin on a nice vr. seriously tho, my mk2 is on a J, u wana sell the plate??
