The Punisher

I m still having running problems with the Vr6…. It seems that the engine thinks it’s a cold start every time it starts. So far I have replaced the fuel pump for a stock VR6 one, wired the pump into the ECU and fuel pump relay circuit. I have put on a new FPR. Cleaned the O2 sensor and double checked the wiring of that sensor. When the engine is cold i.e. left over night it will start great it then idles at around 1000rpm and rev smoothly for about 3 -4 minuets after this time the engine revs drop to around 600 – 500 rpm idle sound smooth and it still revs smooth… as soon as the en

Air leak has crossed my mind i have looked for one but couldnt find one or see one... might try washing up liquid. tell tale bubbles. Not tried MAF yet any way to check them? Joel

Right let me start at the start... give some back ground before explaining the problem. You may remember the car i have bulit was bulit purly for the drag scene so is diffrent to a standard VR in some ways. One being the fuel pump has been uprated to a high pressure electric inline pump, this runs independant to the ignition and in switched on when the engine fires. Switching it on before causes the engine to flood and not start (it never used too.) I have had warm running problems for a while and suspecting the FPR replaced that the flooding still occured and seems the warm running problems

Back Bleeding... thats new to me before i go and goof it up just want to be clear how im going to do it... Ok i have my pot of fluid with a pipe this pipe goes on the bleed nipple of the salve cylinder which is then opened to allow the fluid to flow... at the pedel end do i open the bleed nipple there? Do i pump the pedal at all? or do i open nipple push pedal close nipple lift pedel? what exactly do i do... thanks Joel

Hi all can i fook get get Hydro clutch to work right i have a new slave cylinder and have tried a diffrent master (not new) and can get the pedel to stay firm and spring it just stays down on the floor ... with the engine running you can kind of pump the pedal and the clutch will bite and the car moves... i have bled bled and re bled the system with a eazi bleed the kind that uses pressure from a spare tire to presurise the system makeing bleeding easy... one obersvation i have made is when the system is under pressure from the eazi bleed and i push the clutch down it springs back and feels

any contact details for them please ? thanks Joel

HI all Been having some clutch problems the pedel was rock solid....Well last night i got the box out and saw id made a right cock up when i put the thrust bearing back in basically it was all in backwards anyways ... have a look at this picture i think i am missing something.. is there something that should fit into the concave bit of the slave cylinder that alows the leaver with the thrust bearing to be pushed when the pedel is pressed... does that make sence?? lol Thanks Joel

best thing to do is look and see.. sadly this does mean taking out the box... if the clutch looks fine ie no wear... try spraying some brake and clutch cleaner... i think you will only know whats wrong once you look Joel

hi all can you please tell me what these wires are for on the ignition when the ignition is on do they need to go live? thanks joel

addition i think i havnt bled the clutch right i need a power bleeder ?? J

The likes of the M F1 and Veyron ....have the title worlds fastest street legal production car...the word production being the key word ie there are more then one. Also remember there are a few street legal dragsters capable of sub 8 sec 1/4 mile so impressive it is certainly..but not unique J

Hi all Good news everbody, i got my brakes working at the weekend all system totaly air free and brake pedal is nice and firm. Bled the clutch master cylinder and the clutch system using the bleed nipple on the gear box all ok my problem is the clutch pedal once pressed does not come back up it stays down. what should move the pedal up is it the clucth releasing? moving the fluid back through the system pushing the master cylinder inturn pushing the pedal or does the master cyclinder do it all by itself or is it the spring at the top of the pedal? Thanks All Joel PS have recently put

jeebus people all i wanted was someones opinion on a smegging bike... put your handbags away, and grow up J

awsome seen this on Mk2 vr6 something to be proud of there mate Joel

i think just clip the pedal... minimal damage maximum output... only use the bike to commute to work and back keeps me fit and save loads of money on gyms and fuels... i'll be sure to think about you sitting in your car at rush hour when most citys are totaly grid locked..while i will fly past you.. as your wasting your money, time and getting fat and unfit lol J