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VR6Fletch

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Everything posted by VR6Fletch

  1. I would have thought that you would experience (ie feel) any missing as well as the engine light coming on? Lots of thread on leads i.e. Magnacore vs other brands on the Forum. I would recommend Clare (Vdubgirl) in the sale section for a cheap and prefectly adequate set of Mega leads and plugs. If the engine is missing after replacement check coil pack is not cracked. After that diagnostics get more involved. I know I've been through all this with my VR in the last two months! If you are after performance look at the Sticky under Engine tuning from IBVR who is developing a custom coil pack wit
  2. If you are after leads and plugs try Clare (vdubgirl) £52 all in for Megas leads and NGKs delivered. Very good value and arrived very quick. Improved my VR but pretty sure the root of my misfires is the good ol coilpack
  3. Worth also mentioning that timing chains and any other engine work are best done (if needed) at the same time. Any VR thats done roughly 100K will need new chains and tensioners. As this involves stipping most of that Right side of the engine and tranny off you may as well replace the clutch to an uprated on and in order to get that circa 275 BHP down safely and effectively a Limited Slip Differntial (LSD) is fairly essential. While there you may as well look at the state of the head as some recommend they are rebuilt at 80K intervals. I know that others will have views on this but if the guid
  4. I discussed this with Vince a while back and he (an many others) recommend timing chain replacement if you are going for an FI set-up. He quoted me £1450 for clutch, chain and general overhaul.
  5. Hmm interesting. I'm with you RCF - just in the process of making the S/C or T/C leap and pricing up the options. Engine mounts are essential - nuff said. Interesting what Kevhaywire reckons on this. He rates vibras on the fronts but kept with a MK3 rubber Tdi on the rear to eliminate some harshness. On the mounts Tom - yes very interested especially when compared with Vibra. Cheers
  6. I have used Pro-Tyre (Gupa P) who started in Plymouth for the last 15 years. They have all the kit bigjobbo describes and branches around the country. I have had problems with inner tyre wear on the fronts (see related threads) and when quizzed they recokoned that MK3 Golfs need alignment checking every 2-3 months. Cost £5 to get it checked. £45 for full laser alignment. Cheers
  7. Nice one Tom - really appreciated - keep at it!
  8. Tom Any idea when you might have an final idea of price and fabrication time? I'm real keen to get this set-up as I pretty sure now my coilpack is on its way out! Cheers
  9. Read a lot about these on MK3s and onwards and they seem to sort out handling big time. Looks like main improvement is adding rigidity to overall bodyshell and ironing out roll (which is such a shame on a fat engine - i didn't really get stuffed on corners by an A4 the other day......) I'm looking at a rear neuspeed sway bar as first buy. Any one have any experience of these? Is there a big difference between 25mm and 28mm? Are they easy to fit and if so does any one know of a fitting guide? On the engine brace - thinking of this ahead of an FI mod. Had one on my Civic Aerodeck VTi and that ha
  10. Cheers mate - will bear that in mind for future problemos. Missus took it out today and it ran fine but then starting missing under load at low revs on a v. steep hill. So far nothing like I experienced the other day on thrash to Newquay.
  11. Always though mine was sloppy too (LOL) but reckon thats just the way the VR box is. Used to a very tight Honda box before this. Never driven another VR so I don't know if its good or bad (realtively speaking)
  12. OK - not sure what my VR is up to. Took it out for a spin - toe in on the gas with engine cold (only to 3,000 rpm) after being sat cold for 24 hours and nothing apart from small flat spot on one burst of acceleration.As its not desperate (yet) will wait for one of Toms coil packs and possibly renew leads. Will definatly check the plugs though as last time it was oil fouling that caused this me thinks. Katconcarne - yours sounds similar but whole load more problemo. Mine is only missing intermittently and most of the time it runs OK - even well. Yours sounds like a bit more of a fundemental pro
  13. Bugger is VAG.Com is 45 sheets just to hook up and last time the plugs cured it though she has never sun as quick or a smoothly as a 2.8V6 oughta! Would leads/coilpack cause unburnt fuel problem or would that just cause it to miss?
  14. When the plugs were replaced the VW specialist who had a look reckoned that they were pretty new and didn't need replacing. They will be at least one and a half years old and will have done at least 15,000 miles
  15. I have a 1993 Golf VR which has done 1500 miles since the last set of plugs. The last set were replaced after 8000 miles when the car started to miss and stutter. One plug was oiled another had blown completely. Last few hundred miles engine has been juddering under acceleration especially if I put the toe in at low revs. This happens in any gear and can happen throughout the rev range especially when the engine is cold. When warm it still happens but less. Its also erratic as if pushed the engine can be smooth all the way up to 6000rpm. The judder is now frequently accompanied by a loud inter
  16. Hi Tom I'm in for a once of these set ups too bracket/leads/coils. My VR is missing and popping (unburnt fuel?) which I think is either sparks (replaced only 1500 miles ago.) or the coil pack. As Im saving for a FI set up in the next 6-9 months this would be a really good move to replace now if it is the coilpack. Dead keen to get this so idea of when you can finalise would be great.
  17. Best I managed has been 40.4mpg. On long runs at 55-60 I used to get 34-36 regularly. Now I have got a 106 diesel for the daily commute which does mega miles. Point is when I drive the VR its nice not to give a stuff! Spanked it to and from an early morning surf in Newquay this morning. Still got 26mpg! I like the strap "VR6 is not about mpg its about smiles per mile"!
  18. No geezer I didn't - will it make a lot of difference?
  19. Riggsy Finally got round to changing the head unit and got a Blaupunkt Casablanca 54 half price from bluespot. Sound is now awesome. The Infinities just need a decent head unit to drive them which was what the supplier said when I was dissapointed in the final sound.
  20. Just completed this on my 1993 Mk3 which had shagged discs and pads anyway. Total kit list: Audi TT (225) calipers, carriers and discs (£100 from an off the bay deal) Goodridge stainless line kit - Stealth £85 Disc regrind £30 Pads £60 Bolts (50mm hex head self colour) spring washers and stainless spacers £15 Proper caliper paint - silver £18 Fitting £115 dowm my local garage. Total cost: £405 which is quite a lot. Sold 280 calipers and carriers on the bay for £60 so final cost £365 which is less but a lot. With drilled discs behind my 17s though these would look the muts nuts. Still
  21. Hi Mark - did you get this problem fixed. After fitting falkens 8,000 miles ago for the same reasons = totally worn through on the inner 2" or more on brand new tyres especially on the drivers side I am gutted to find the same wear pattern on the new tyres. Did you do anything to fix and if so what did you do?
  22. Thts v. v. nice - like the rims specially. Are they BBS 17ines if so let me know as I am saving for some and really like the look. Do you have shares in Autoglym?
  23. The release cable on the passenger seat in my 3 door is broken at the base of the seat. Does any one have any experience of refitting or replacing one of these. Part only costs a couple of quid. Interior stealers want £45 for labour!!
  24. VR6Fletch

    6 Speed

    Vince has just given me a price of £2200 (not sure whether that included VAT) for the Quaife 6speed conversion
  25. Cheers for advice. This evening spotted the bleedin obvious - very, very very small =ve and -ve markings in the original speakers hidden at the bottom of the VW clip in sockets on the mids/bass cones. So at least part of the puzzle solved. Rear Mids/Woofers Brown = -ve feed Blue Green = +ve feed Front mids/woofers Brown/Blue = -ve feed Blue/Light blue = +ve feed Now I've just got to work out the fronts and how the feck I wire in the cross overs using the existing cable and which bits go where. Door card came off easy thou...... *-) 6510s sound very good in the rear - a lot tighter than the V
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