LadVR

Well sent the ECU off to United Motorsport, looks like a voltage spike had erased some memory. All sorted now, starts everytime (It did till I took the engine out yesterday!!) Big thanks to United Motorsports for fixing it and the quick turn around!

Yes it does sound just like the immob, I had this problem last year so had it decoded and binned the transponder. The ignition switch feels ok, and works as it should, as does (whats left) of the electrical items - wipers, lights, horn, engine fans, I havent a radio, its an empty shell with 2 seats and a cage...oh and a boat anchor! I'll have another look tommorow at that.. Interesting point about the ecu maybe needing to shut down, would make sense... Thanks for the advise, i'll get my laptop up and running again (they dont bounce too well!!)

It wil run for roughly around a second, sometimes 2. You can open the throttle and the car will rev briefly but only for the duration of that second before cutting out. It will continue to do this however many times you do this until you disconnect the battery for a couple of seconds and then it will start fine!?!?!

Been scratching my head with this one....hope someone on here can help, I found a few threads in the search with similar problems but they turned out to be alarm/immobilser which I havent got. Im running a late OBD2 aaa in my mk2 road/track toy which up until now has been fine until about a week a go. It has no immobs/alarms/transponder as i've got the United Motorsports transponder bypass reprogram. Basically it will start with the first turn of the key, run and drives fine, if I turn it off again it wont start. It fires up for a second then dies. However, if I disconnect the battery for

Hello mate, If its smoking after over run its going to be stem seals i'd imagine, if it doesnt smoke going through the gears the rings are fine and would leave alone, especially if you are only keeping it for a year or two. If you have got a rebuilt head then its just a case of swapping heads over which will fix that problem and your headgasket leak as well. Probably a days graft and the bonus is the engine stays in situ. Changing everything else is a different matter. You say that you dont want the car off the road for more than a week or so, you may be pushing it, dropping the whole engin

Is that the ATP inlet manifold you are using? Where did you get it from? Its the last bit I have got to buy, just worried about getting a crappy copy!

Yeh but im thinking it should be ok because when i had the new engine put in bout 8 months ago i changed the thermostat housing then for a brand new one well the plastic bit with the o-rings ... Good advise to change the lot as its gone through 8 months of heat cycles. Maybe i've been unlucky, but every time I've changed just the thermostat its leaked afterwards. Change the lot now whenever it needs a therrmostat, as I just cant be bothered with fixing it twice, or pouring new coolant away!

Try putting power straight to the fuel pump , if it spins the pumps ok. After trying many things, I finally got round to wiring the diagnostic loom in and hooked it up to the laptop, turns out its the transponder stopping start up. it'll pump enough fuel in for it to run for 2 seconds then cuts off.

Im sure I spent nearly 1500 quid rebuilding mine with wossners and all new seals, chains, tensioners, gaskets etc, etc, plus all the hours going into it. If you know the person who built it and you say it should be good, go for it!

I had this problem too. In the end I tested the com ports in vag-com, it identified comm 3 but still wouldnt work. I then had to go into: start>control panel>system>hardware>device manager. (you will see a list) click on click on a port>port settings>advanced>then at the bottom you see try selecting a different com port number> ok it al then re run vag com. Basically, vag com recognised comport 3, but it was labelled com port 2 in my computer. Once I selected a different one it worked and recognised the modules. I found the above on the net somewhere, I'm not sure w

I used it on my mk2 VR and on my mk4 diesal. It reads and displays the faults but when you click the clear dtc button a message pops up and says need to register on ross-tech site. I bought this lead: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-COM-USB-KKL-OBD-2-Cable-AUDI-VW-SKODA-SEAT-VAG-/160403980392?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2558d28068 Maybe I need to investigate how I have installed it, I did follow the instructions though!

Im currently having the same issues too! I have changed the ring around the ignition barrel, made no difference, also checked and re checked all the electrics but no joy. After hours of research on the internet (many hours worth) it looks like we have 2 options.; 1. replace transponder - you'll need to get it recoded by vw or someone with the software to match ket, ecu, transponder or 2. Use a company who can recode the ecu to bypass the transponder (i think c2 offer this service)

Wondering if any of you can help? does any one know how many wires come off their vr6 diagnostic plug? I was given a plug (as it never came with my loom) with 4 wires which ive wired up as follows in the mk2: Brown - earth Red - 12v+ permanant live Yellow- dont know where this goes Grey/white - connected to the grey K-line from the ecu. I've been having a mare trying to get the car started, after various other problems I posted and sorted I can now get it to run for a second then cut out which i'm assuming its the immobiliser. I've got diagnostics from ross-tec which I want to run, but cant