pics as promised: one crusty fuel filter: cut the top off - the insides: the outside of the filter compared to the inside: Couldn't see any large particles of dirt/grit/rust etc (not like the days of my minis!) but as you can see the filter has turned black over the years, so worth changing for peace of mind if it hasnt been done for a while.
I used Himni too, good prices (at the time) they will knock some off the invoice to help with the customs bills too. Have a read through Kev's turbo guide, loads of info on there worth knowing....
some people just love to go that step further: [link]http://www.zatzy.com/projekt/356131-turbohenke-golf-rwd-race-projekt.html edited as im a 'tard with a computer..
OK guys tell you what.... if you guys choose to run my software when you get your cars up and running then I will hepl out where I can, parts, advice, agony aunt (uncle) etc.. How about that? Dont you just love it when a plan comes together!
Not really thought about this but I suppose it is possible....? Best to call me to discuss requirements Vince Be really usueful if you are willing to do this as i've (and i'm sure many people on here also at various stages with theirs) have slowly been aquiring parts over the last 12 months as and when i've had spare cash and still have a few missing bits (damn this house buying lark!)
The standard manifold fits fine, there's enough room under the bulkhead. I ditched the cat and welded a boss on the exhaust for the lambda sensor. It'll run fine on the existing pump, but it was a lot better when i swapped the vr tanks and lines onto the car. Mine was a valver, just dropped the pump off and the vr fuel filter will fit diagonally on the existing bolts under the car. Also the vr pump being inside the tank its quieter than the valvers being underneath the car.
Theres a guy on the mk2 vr6 forum who makes them for various engine/car configurations, also on ebay. I think i paid about 30-35 quid for the front. Im not 100% sure but i think the standard rears are around the same, been a while since I changed them. Good point above from Spindat-dub about changing the rears: Makes a noticable difference if they are getting a little tired.
I have a solid front mount but still retain the standard rears, havent really noticed any increased vibration or noise, although my car is stripped inside and is already noisy!
Hi mate, you would be looking at around 200 for the machining of the block and 500ish for pistons, but then if its in bits you might as well replace all the bearings, chains, gaskets etc so budget for around another couple of hundred...soon adds up this engine lark!!
Any of you replaced your rubber fuel hoses that run from the bulkhead to the fuel rail with upgraded ones? I've notice mine are looking a bit worse for wear so want to replace before I put on the uprated pump. I dont want to see an engine fire!! Anyone recommend any? Thanks
if its in bits then i would change every wearing surface ie, bearings, guides, chains, + seals and gaskets, oil pump etc. might as well do it all at once whilst its stripped.