wkd928

the manifold from storm has varied length primaries to match whether the exhaust path through the heads. de-cat the exhuast has got to be worth something.

i will give them a call on monday. at the mo ive taken the box of tricks apart and im trying to dry it out on the heater - you just never know!

does anyone know where i can get one of these? mines gone south, it looks like its had some water ingress and corosion damage, im missing the top end kick!

i bought mine with about 140k miles on the clock and its now just passed 160k - it was a heap when i got it and since then its been an absolute money pit! no service history and it had been abused with nothing spent on it for quite a while, i should have listened to my mechanic when he said scrap it at the end of last year.. but they do sound nice, they make respectable power and have nice useable torque - an entertaining drive all in all. schrick cams and manifold along with a full stainless decat exhaust and some budget suspension parts also help.

its definitely thirstier than before, anyone else notice this? also there seems to be a bit of a flat spot just after 4000 rpm when the flappy valve opens.. i might try setting the opening point a bit higher - maybe 4400. there is a definite rush from 5800 all the way out to redline, but the flat spot/hole in the tourque between 4-5k is really noticeable compared to how everything else is beefed up. its definitely faster than before, more tourque steer when driving out of corners:) anyone know where to get a 2.9 throttle body?? what about some glass fibre body panels? my doors have knac

absy, have you fitted a schrick manifold after fitting the cams? as far as i can tell the manifold is responsible for the slug of torque between 3-4k rpm. even as a stock engine there is good midrange but the manifold seems to improve on this by quite a bit. after collecting the car and driving home its harder to notice the differences from 4k till redline, at least for the first little while - simply put the fat torque down there distorts perspective but im absolutely certain there is noticeable more go from 5k than before as well - from all acounts this is the cams. all i need now is a

craggsy, are you making over 200 bhp with just intake manifold and exhaust? did you get it re-mapped? im wondering how much more i might gain with a re-map.

just got the car back today - definitely more tourque and power, especialy fat between 3-4k but also noticeably more go from 5k onwards. this is with shcrick cams and manifold, no remap as of yet. two other points of interest: the lower cam chain had destroyed its tensioner/guide and had eaten through two dowells that normaly hold the guide in place. and for anyone fitting a schrick manifold - there is more than one green/black wire in the ecu harness so check that you are tapping into pin 22!

does anyone know where to find doors in either carbon or glassfibre? - for a three door mk 3.

is the oil pump a known weak point for this engine?

kev, thanks for the info on the cams and clutch. my vr6 was/is a real shocker in terms of its overall condition so its been difficult justifying spending money on it especialy as its done 159k miles. i thought the chains had probably been done, figuring the clutch will have been done and it was quiet. like you say a quiet engine is clearly not a garuntee of anything. all i can say is that i will be quite upset if the headgasket goes or it drops a valve after all of this so far, i just spent £££ getting an mot (mind you it does stop a little better now that both rear callipers work -

bastard car... mechanic has just sent an email showing the tensioner without any plastic covering. how much is a new clutch, im figuring while we are in there..

im having schrick cams and manifold fitted to my car this week by my local mechanic, id attempt to do this myself except i cant keep the car off the road for the time i might spend doing it especialy if i ran into a problem. i just wanted to check that the schrick cams are fitted in the same way as stock cams - there are the registration slots on the back ends of the cams which are aligned with the special tool and the engine at TDC. my only other experience with non standard cams was that the valve lift needed to be measured with a dial gauge and then this was set to a certain number of degre

alex, are you doing this on track? i was hoping there might be a way to ajust the accelerator pedal for height, taking it further towards the floor... maybe add something to the brake pedal??

cmon all you demon drivers, fess up! so no-one blips the throttle on the downchange while braking at the same time? i find the sound from the engine is too nice to pass up the oportunity but i cant yet brake and do this at the same time.