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Ch0yc3

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Everything posted by Ch0yc3

  1. Ch0yc3
    What do you guys think?
  2. Ch0yc3
    Whoops, I didn't mean "no oily residue", I meant that there's no milky residue on the oil cap which I understand is the tell-tale sign of head problems.
  3. Ch0yc3
    A couple of weeks ago it was raining very heavily, while I was doing some local journeys. When I was about 1/4 of a mile from my house I tried to change from 2nd to 3rd gear. When pressing on the accelerator I failed to get any power, and it felt as if the engine was about to stall. Pushed it into second gear and it seemed to go, but when waiting at a junction idling it almost stalled again. Managed to park it on my road, but the it really wanted to give up. Started the car the next day, and although it seemed fine for about 45 seconds, after that there was fluctuation of the revs, and it look
  4. Ch0yc3
    It seems the offset is 55mm, that's what the guy told me. I'm not sure if that's how they're measured ET wise. Does it seem like they'll fit without rubbing? Or would I need some spacers, if so, what amount either side?
  5. Ch0yc3
    Thanks. I realise that a 4-0 or 45 ratio would be best. It's just that the tyres are good quality Yokos wth a fair amount of tread, and it would be great to be able to use them, even just for a couple of months. The other option would be to replace my two front tyres at the moment, but if I could get these 16"s to work that would be great. The Speedo thing is certainly an issue to take into consideration. Would I have to always watch I was driving UNDER the limit?
  6. Ch0yc3
    I have a standard VR6. I want some 16" wheels. Seen some, but they have 205 / 50 / 16 tyres. Do you think the aspect ratio of 50 will fit with no rubbing? My car is not lowered. It would be great if they did beacuse they're good tyres, and obviously it would be nice not to have to fork out for four new ones. Thanks.
  7. Ch0yc3
    Does the socket need to be a slightly smaller size than the nut itself? I think the nut's around 19mm. Would this be any good: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10151&productId=194853&categoryId=71555
  8. Ch0yc3
    I bought my VR a few months ago, when i bought the car I checkd that the wheel locking nut key was in the boot with the jack, which it was. I had to take one of the back wheels of soon after to sort something out. All well and good. However, I got a puncture last week to one of the front tyres. Try to put the key on the wheel locking nut, only to find that there are a different set on the back to those on the front... aaaaargh! I'd already been towed home, as I'd left the key in a drawer at home, so now if I want it towed somewhere else I'll have to fork out myself as it won't be covered on my
  9. Ch0yc3
    PM sent
  10. Ch0yc3
    Were there any Syncros sold in other RHD countries, such as Cyprus, Japan etc? I would love tto get hold of a RHD version. Also, as someone said up-post, wouldn't it be easier to donate the Syncro drivetrain into a ordinary RHD VR6?
  11. Ch0yc3
    Thanks very much for the replies. I think I have the Blue cap, so therefore should it not be using coolant? Was only serviced a couple of months ago which was why I was a bit worried, but I do use the car quite a lot. While I'm on this thread I thought I'd be cheeky and ask a couple of other questions... 1) My exhaust seems to be blowing somewhere around the front, the noise is most noticeable around the drivers door area. Haven't had a chance to get the car up and have a look underneath yet, but what part of the exhaust sounds like it needs replacing? Could it be an intermediate pipe? Also, w
  12. Ch0yc3
    I'll certainly try and ring GSF and VWspares.com to find out the manufacturers of their parts. Just a question about coolant: I had a service a couple of months ago and the mechanic used the Pink G12 stuff. I've done quite a lot of miles since then. I opened the bonnet this morning, before having started the engine, and noticed that the coolant level was below the minimum mark. Swtiched the engine on and ran it in till oil temp was up to 90, and the coolant level was up, but only to just above the minimum line. I can't exactly remember, but the coolant must have been up somewhere near to the
  13. Ch0yc3
    I have a number of things to sort out on my 97 VR6: HT Leads, serpentine belt and tensioner, coolant, hand-brake cable, exhaust, rear bushes and a couple of other bits. I called my local dealers to get some prices, and they just seemed ridiculous. For example, typing into the google the actual part number printed on the tensioner in my engine brings up this US site: http://www.metalmanparts.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=142&categoryId=26 This is the OE Litens part, the part in my car is manufactured by Litens too. $100, i.e. £50 for the tensioner. VAG UK dealer was asking for
  14. Ch0yc3
    No it's not lowered yet (aiming to get H&R cup kit in the next few months). Someone I know has these alloys for sale for quite cheap, and I need to replace my front two tyres (on 15" alloys). I thought I could use these BBSs with the existing tyres for a month, then get new tyres for them all round next month. Just wondered whether they would work for a couple of weeks with no issues.
  15. Ch0yc3
    Actually, I think the tyres on them have an aspect ratio of 50 - would that make much defference regarding clearance issues? How much would decent spacers cost? Would they only be necessary for the rears?
  16. Ch0yc3
    Would the OE Mk4 bbs split rims fit on a vr6 without the need for spacers? Also, would they fit with the tyres fitted for the mark 4? Stud Pattern: 5100 Rim Size: 6.5Jx16" Offset: ET42 Tyre Size Supplied: 205/55/16
  17. Ch0yc3
    That's what I thought. What width would the 16" RXIIs be? If they're from the GTI 20th anniversary ones are they 7 / 7.5? Why has he needed to use 15mm spacers? Also, an additional question: I've just seen some RXIIs (16x7), but they have an offset of 42, and 5x114.3 bolt pattern. Would these fit my VR6, or would I need some kind of spacers/adjustments for them to fit?
  18. Ch0yc3
    This is a lovely example of a GTI 16V (another link here). But what do you think the size of the RXIIs on it are? I'm looking at getting RXIIs for my VR6 in either 16" or 17", but am undecided on which to choose. I think the size of the alloys on this car looks pretty perfect, including the amount it's been lowered - and that's another thing, how much does it look like it's been lowered by on those pics? Can you hazard any guesses?
  19. Ch0yc3
    I can't seem to find the bearinf on its own on ebay, or anywhere else for that matter. Does anyone know if it is sold separately from the tensioner as a whole. Originally I was just going to buy the belt for £20 - buying the kit with tensioner included looks more like £80. Where can I get the OEM bearing part?
  20. Ch0yc3
    Thanks for the advice. My VR6 has been making a godawful noise for a few weeks. When the bonnet's open it sounds a bit diesel like. My mechanic who serviced it reassured me that it was unlikely to be the timing chains, but more likely the serp belt needed replacing as it looks cracked. I'm just wondering a couple of things: - Looking at a couple of forums, it seems the noise may not just be the belt, but the bearing in the tensioner part. Would that just need greasing? I've done quite a lot of miles since the noise started to occur, so would it more likely need replacing? - If it did need rep
  21. Ch0yc3
    I think it was on 2, but not to worry. I had a look at the quick reference guide, and I just had to clear the settings with a few button presses. Whoops!
  22. Ch0yc3
    I seem to be having some problems with the trip computer on my 97 VR6. The digital readings for the time, oil temperature and outside temperature are all fine - but the avg mph, miles travelled and mpg readings seem to be either entirely incorrect or just static. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be, and any possible solutions?
  23. Ch0yc3
    To begin with, I should let you know I have a 97 VR6. When I bought the car there were some issues with the ABS. I think it may be to do with one of the rear sensors, but I haven't yet taken it to a garage with VAGCOM. The first issue I wanted to find out if people could help with is a squeaking - this comes from the rear driver's side wheel area, and is worst when turning on left hand bends. It sounds like squeaking breaks, but there's no shudder or grumble. When I had the car serviced I got the guy to try and sort it out; I think he lubricated the existing wheel bearing, but that hasn't had
  24. Ch0yc3
    The thing is both the vehicles do seem mechanically sound, they were both advertised for a lot more than I have got them down to, and it's really doing my head in! The thing with the 5-door higher mileage car is that I haven't been able to see the car where the guy lives, and he also was trying to arrange me picking it up from a site where he's working rather than from his home (although he did say that he needed a lift back). I'm a bit dubious about buying a car from someone without knowing where they live. Regarding the 3-door, if I got the address of the previous owner (as apparently there
  25. Ch0yc3
    Thanks very much for your replies. I think I am erring towards the first car, it does seem more genuine and I shouldn't really be taking any unnecessary risks; it is also a little cheaper AND has tax till the end of the year. Just have to make sure it has genuinely passed its lastest MOT. I don't have a lot of money to spend at the moment; I was in an accident that wasn't my fault and really do need a car immediately for the next month. I was just hoping to be able to get one of these while I need a car rather than buying a temporary runaround which I'll have the hassle of having to sell off i
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