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I'll be up for sticking my car on the club stand if there is still some spaces available? Do I just register using the above links? I will be there on Sunday, well im going up the sat night and camping over. Looking forward to the new venue aswell so should be a good weekend.

It was a bit drastic I suppose, but when it cracked I just thought well its gotta come off now and its already broken so mite aswell jus rip it off! That's deffo the tightest fitting splitter ive ever seen, usually they just fall off!

Haha! That would be me that ripped the splitter off! Lol Bloody cheap eBay crap! I didn't even pull it that hard and it just shattered in my hand absolutely no flex at all! Annoyingly I ended up taking the bumper off in the end so they could strap the car down so could of saved the splitter! Lol But that aside it was a good day with a good turnout of cars and it was nice 2 meet and chat with other like minded vr enthusiasts!

Oh rite the v1 im not too sure about but it's still probably worth buying a belt as it's only gonna be about £10, see if it fits and if not you should be able to work out what size you need from there then u can return the belt as it was the wrong size and get your money back.

Just my 2p but I recently replaced the belt on my mates Corrado that's running a vortech v9 charger with NO aircon and I just used a standard vr6 with aircon belt and it fitted fine. So basically if you need a aux belt for a vortech charger but your car does not have aircon you need to order the standard belt from a motor factors that is for standard vehicles fitted with aircon. Hope that helps.

To convert to coilpack you will need to change both of the looms (engine loom and fusebox loom), the ecu, the upper timing chain cover with cam sensor and the cam sensor pickup on the cam sprocket and obviously you will need a coilpack aswell. Or you could just put the dizzy stuff onto the 2.9 if you don't managed to find an early engine with dizzy already. Hope that helps

Yea they still sell it, i jus got a 20L drum today from Milton keynes TPS but don't think they call it synta silver anymore... They just call it 10/40 synta, well that's what the label says anyway.

Have u got into the car yet? I've also got no locks on my car so when my battery goes flat this is what I do Jack up the front of the car. Carefully Attach the red jump lead to the power cable connection for the starter motor (but make sure it does not touch any part of the engine) Then attach the black jump lead to a good clean part of the engine or gearbox. Hook up the other end of the jump leads to a battery or car and you should should now have power so you can operate your remote central locking and get into the car! Hope this helps

Have you checked what temperature the fans are actually coming on? I had a similar hot running problem with mine and i noticed the fans were coming on later than usual it turned out it was the fan motor that was faulty, it is a 2 stage fan and on mine the 1st stage packed up so it was coming on late when it had reached the higher temperature for stage 2. I replaced the fan and problem solved. Its quite easy to check the motor you just need 2 bits of wire and battery

No its ok im more than happy to use the oil you recommended, infact i just got some 0/40 castrol edge sport so that should do the job perfectlty. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for every1s input and ive also been told by somebody else they use 0/40 in there zr2 so ill just go with that and it should be fine. But i would also be interested in speaking to the company that deals with them if you can find the contact details for them? Also does anybody know if you can get different pulleys for the zr1 so i can run more boost or will the cogged pulley setup of the zr2 fit the zr1?

What a result the search i used was still saved so here is the link for the manual. http://philhalbasch.com/charger/MK3_VR6_FITTING.pdf i think its on the last page and they say you need to change the oil every 15,000 miles

Your right in saying they dont have an oil feed like the vortechs but if you look closely they have two little grub screws that are opposite each other and this is apparently how you fill them with oil. ill try and find the website again and put a link up cos it took me ages to find it but i have it saved on my computer now.

Well that also what i thought about the zr1, that they are sealed units with ceramic bearings and dont need any maintenance but apparently there is two different zr1 chargers and i dont mean the zr2 with cogged pulleys. ive been told that there is a very early zr1 and then there is a later zr1 still using a ribbed belt but has the oil reservoir.(which i believe is the 1 i have) I found a installation manual on line in pdf for a zr1 and that also said about changing the oil and i have a mate with a zr2 and mine looks basically the same as his and has the little grub screws that is used to fill