robsparky

yea, apart from a ramair induction kit.

James, mine doesnt clear when the engine warms up. Normally ok on start up, even in rain. gets worse as you drive in the wet. After about 5 miles in the dry, it disappears. It gets really bad if go through puddles.

I've noticed this fault getting worse over the past month or so. Within a few minuites of driving in wet weather, the engine starts to lose power, becomes lumpy and a strange roaring noise comes from the exhaust ( as if theres a hole in the silencer). It doesnt misfire at all and never cuts out. The fuel consumption doubles and the engine labours up hills. The spark plugs are new and the leads. The problem clears with the weather. Am i going mad or has anyone else had this?? I wondered if it could be the coil pack or a sensor under the car getting wet. Any ideas welcome. I had real problems w

Like dreamer said, when injectors wear they start to hose (which means they let fuel run through almost constantly rather than a fine spray at the right time). This washes off the film of oil lubricating the bore causing the cylinder and rings to wear quickly. It seems strange though that you aren't burning oil consistantly. My vr uses about 3 litres of oil in 1500 miles. If your compression tests were good and your not using enough oil to notice on the dipstick, i wouldnt worry too much. just keep an eye on it in case the oil level suddenly drops. If you can see blue smoke in the mirror at fu

Hi Haydn, my vr has this fault too, but i havent done any work to it yet. when you deccelerate, the cylinders become a vacuum - because the air intake is shut off, the piston pulls air from wherever it will come from.. like the valve guides/seals and piston rings. It also pulls oil with it. A common sign of worn valve guides or seals is to see a puff of smoke when throttling after deceleration or on gear change. This is because the air/oil has been pulled down the valve guide then burnt with the fuel mix when you accelerate. As you have had your head rebuilt, you should not have valve guide w

with valve seals you tend to get smoke on cold start up, gear change and on deceleration. The only time i see smoke is when i boot it up the revs. It is possible, drawing oil down the inlet valve would give an almost clean burn and it would be a much easier job than changing piston rings.

Hi dreamer, i've lost some power and burning oil. plugs 1 and 6 are oiling up badly. Like you say, compression isnt that bad, but theres oil getting in them cylinders somehow.

What you havin done budgie?? is it full engine out job and then strip down and rebuild? If so, what sort of price you looking at... if you dont mind me askin?

I've re-done the compression test. I didnt start the engine this time, just used crankover compression. The readings came out between 135 - 155 psi. I then did a wet test which affected them all by about 10 - 15 psi. The odd thing is that the cylinder that burns the most oil was the one least affected by the wet test. Maybe there was already sufficient oil round the rings to provide some seal?? So it is looking like piston rings, but will try and organise a leakdown test asap.

Hi, no it was a dry test, i did the test myself. I assume by a wet test you mean putting a small amount of diesel in the cylinder and doing the test again? I wasn't sure to do both or not. i also wasnt sure if i should let the engine tick over and keep resetting the gauge or go with the first reading. The car is burning oil, cyls 1 and 6. its got 118K on the clock. I sort of ruled out the head gasket as it runs too well and there are no issues with cooling system.

I dunno, cyls 1 and 6 are using a lot of oil - but are no worse than the rest on the compression test. I've got no obvious signs of headgasket fault, -ie, using water, bubbles or oil in water.

Before committing myself to buying a set of piston rings, i've done a complete compression test. Can someone verify my results? I think the readings should be 9 - 10 bar on each cylinder. All of mine were 4.5 - 5.5 bar. Am i right in assuming that i need a COMPLETE set of rings??

hi budgie, i'm from worcester dude, not st albans. I haven't done the rings yet, still pricing them up. Can get them for about 22.00 a cyclinder. I'm still not convinced it can be done via the sump. I spoke to a volks specialist, he said he'd never done it and thought it would be a tight job. I will probably have a go anyway. I need to take the sump off to do the o/s wishbone aswell. The car is running well at the moment though, still smoooth, returning 35+ mpg. Is your vr6 burning loads of oil too? or just low compression.

Ok jay, cheers for that. I just hope its only rings and i'm not in for a re-bore, my pocket won't stand that.

thats what i thought! glad they can be done without dropping the lump out. Do i need to take the head off too, or just take out the plugs?