finny

Bungy, Did you renew the 4 bolts on each side holding the trailing arm support bracket? Did you renew the bush retaining bolt? Any need to make a bush puller tool? or did the polybushes slot in with 'ease'. Going to give this a go soon. Cheers

Have you got an oversized spline you can whack into the recess of the rounded bolt? has worked for some but didn't for me. Not much access around there and the easiest thing/ only solution was to angle grind the one of the bolt heads (most accessible one) and then the actual carrier itself (for the other bolt due to lack of access). So you'll need a replacement carrier and new bolts of course if you go this route. Been there, feel your pain!

Have you tried whacking in an oversized spline into the recess of the rounded bolt? has worked for some. I did the same as you, rounding off the bolt and the oversized spline trick didn't work for me. Not much access around there and the easiest thing/ only solution was to angle grind the carrier off. So you'll need a replacement carrier and new bolts of course if you go this route.

Unmarked Focus STs Black, dark blue and orange Seen around Walton on Thames, Esher in Surrey and towards Staines, Middlesex.

Passenger rear, drivers rear, passener front and then drivers front. Basically do brakes furthest away from master cylinder. Don't forget to check and keep topping up the brake fluid.

Standard 15" alloys came with 205/50/15 and load index 86 Speed rating V.

+ 2 Check its plugged in correctly? no connecting pins bent. So flat cable from pump to ecu and the main ABS ecu block connector (which slides up and in and not pressed in). You did say you got your mechanic to remove, so I assume he refitted? Are you able to just unplugged and refit yourself? Failing that you may try and see if you can eliminate if its the actual ECU is still faulty ie try yours in another VR& that uses same pump and ecu part number & vice versa.

There is a 'securing' nut that holds everything in place inc the rubber mount. The whole unit should be compressed enough, so the unit can be removed in situ if needed. The strut goes in the turret and then from top, the metal cup/ stop plate and then the 21mm nut. Sorry couldn't get anything useful or gauge depth of thread from your photo.

We dropped the subframe and everything as couldn't get one of the front wishbone bolts out (connecting to the subframe). In the end no option but to remove the subframe and weld a nut to the stubbon bolt, massive breaker bar to crack it open, Subframe out meant rest of the replacement parts easier though (ball joints, tie rods etc). Got help on removing the u/j on the steering column. This was all done on the drive way.

Don't think the standard spring has been compressed enough. There is a nut that holds the rubber mount in place and everything in place. So if this is correctly in place and spring compressed enough, there should be loads of thread left when doing the final 21mm nut from top of the engine bay/ suspension turret. From memory you'll need a 21mm offsett/ swan neck spanner for the final nut and 7mm allen key to stop the damper from turning as the nut is tightened.

All relevant. Hope the fix works for you too.

3/16 SAE single flare is the brake line spec from what I can remember 11mm unions - nut size

Glad it's worked for you Pete. cheers