bobda

Changed the fuel pump relay and the car started, but stuttered and eventually cut out. When started, the new fuel pump relay (Topran part, from GSF) clicks on and off when the engine is running, obviously causing fuel to not flow freely, but stagger. Tested the relay on a 12V bench supply and it latches - as does the old one. The engine didn't start at all with the old relay but it starts with the new one and then cuts out. Any ideas??

Right - trying to finally fix this now and upon touching the fuel pump relay in the fuse box (numbered 167), there is no click when turning the ignition on, which I believe should be the case. The relay above it clicks and latches and I believe this to be the ignition relay. Which pins should I jump to force the fuel pump to run so I can check if the fuel pump relay is at fault? Anyone got a wiring diagram of the fuse box area?

My '97 VR6 is refusing to start. Not been usign it much of late, but I charged the battery over a weekend and drove around for a couple of days with no issues at all . Last Tuesday morning however, it refused to start. It was a VERY cold morning (-2) and I thought it migh be something to do with this, but tried again a day or so later when it was warmer and no joy. The immobiliser light is off and the starter motor turns freely, but it doesn't catch. Initial thoughts are that it is a fuelling issue, but I haven't investigated further. Anyone got any ideas?

Have you seen the prices of VR6s on Autotrader lately? They've gone up, seriously!

If you have a car registered BEFORE september 2001, then you will be EXEMPT from the new tax brackets and will continue to pay tax based on engine size rather than CO2 emissions. THIS IS A FACT. The article is making reference to the fact that the new(er) tax brackets are being applied to all vehicles registered after September 2001, which is unfair on those people who bought their cars not knowing that the tax hike was going to be implemented. There ARE CO2 emissions data figures available for the VR6 - http://www.smmtco2.co.uk/co2search2.asp Level (g/km): 199 Which means that we would be in

5w40, I thought 5w30 was the recommended rating. My yearly service is due in June so I'll be changing then. In the mean time, I have learned not to boot it at cold!!

It's a Jamex springs and shocks kit, Was advertised as a 30/35mm drop but I think it might be more. It has certainly improved the sloppy handling althogh it can be a bit bumpy at low speeds!

Yeah I know! :-* Also forgot to mention the stainless cat-back exhaust, no idea how I forgot that!!

I don't think I've posted any pics of mine up, had it since Sept 07. External mods - Hella Celis lights, clear fogs/indicators, clear side repeaters and refurbed original BBSs. 'Performance' mods - lowered and stiffened suspension, K&N panel filter and a lead right foot . Internal - CG seatbelt lock, Blaupunkt Hamburg MP57 head unit, Sony speakers front & back. Pics;

I've not changed over yet!

Right, having read all about oil grading, I'm going to switch to 5w30. Will let you know how it seems...

I wonder. What type of oil are you on currently, 10w40? Mine was run on Synta Gold 5w40 before I bought it but I don't know if the problem exisited before I bought it. MAFs are £52+VAT for exchange at GSF...I'm considering it.

It's at Bolton Abbey, near Skipton. North Yorkshire. http://www.boltonabbey.com/ http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=Bolton+Abbey,+Skipton,+UK&sa=X&oi=map&ct=title

Still pretty big, the homepage gets to 1.07MB and the forum front page 1.01MB.

Coulda got one for £15.50.