lowvr
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Everything posted by lowvr
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seen as though you are the onyl person i knwo that has "been there and done it" rather than onyl the theory side of things... can you please make and development recomendations? basicly if you could improve on it or if you have the box apart what would you change to make it more suitable for vr-t power? also why the hell are 02m clutches soo bloody expensive?! i wonder what the stock r32 clutch can withstand?... we might just have to find out...
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im not sure if i want to try to hit 200+ mph in a 1994 mk3 golf lol... i don't suppose you could be more specific in terms of which diesel final drive is the right one?
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Lovely car there pal can i ask for a little advice im just in the middle of sorting out all the 02m gear for my mk3 just like yours when everything is togetehr it will be a vr-t runnign 02m by my prediction the ratios are going to be a little short though to really utilise the vr-t power. can you confirm this? if so do you think it would be a better idea to change just the final drive or does any particular gear(s) need changing? really would appreciate the help thanx
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best adivce i can give you is do some more research using search functions and you will learn 2 things: horsepower is easy(ish to achieve - but you pay for reliability if you piece the kit togther yourself you will end up with far superiour components which are tailored to your needs than most kits can offer (btw there is no off the shelf kit available for rhd vehicles)
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as above ...hook up ur vagcom (i know ur an expert with that ) and see what your oil temps are like for style of driving if u add a oil cooler when not needed you oil wont really reach operating temp ...which is a no brainer
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with a r32 oil pick up it does
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From other responses i think you are right kev, the threads on there should be adequate - i think it is the option for me. I did consider the r32 sump/pump combo, but with the odd occasion that the sump bottoms out i figured it is more prone to shatter. To help out with the front end of my car being polybushed it helps a little and my bfi engine mounts have kept the engine up in the air a little better than stock mount would. My other preference was to make this measure something a little bit low budget as this is getting strapped to my current N/A build. Whilst my real investment is heading t
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anything else is the vag range possibly something out of a newer car which is designed to be a bit more powerfull/efficient? thanx in advance guys
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my car sits quite low and i keep grinding out and mis-shaping the sump nut i have heard of people using slim lines versions from other vag models such as a polo 9n3 but don't know the exact details can someone please point me in the right direction as reference apparently these do fit and are of the type of design that would be usefull. The only issue is the thread isn't as long as the original sump nut thread which could be a slight issue. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-MERIVA-SIGNUM-VECTRA-OMEGA-OIL-SUMP-PLUG-NEW-/350327632016?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5191277090
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Engine sometimes needs excessive cranking to start
lowvr replied to Lukey.'s topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
possibilty could be alternator not charging the battery properly (may still be charging, but not well enough. -
how difficult is it making a custom loom for vr6 - stand alone
lowvr replied to lowvr's topic in Engine Tuning
Kev I won't quoting your above post but thank you. A wealth of knowledge in the post above and written in a logcial order that makes it easy (or easier is better word) to follow. I think its the route i will go down and although I'm still a long way off this stage i can what's involved i feel its something that just needs a bit of patience to get right. With my plans on how i want the car to run i think stand alone is going to be the only real option. In the long run i think it will work out more cost effective too. -
how difficult is it making a custom loom for vr6 - stand alone
lowvr replied to lowvr's topic in Engine Tuning
i don't suppose you took any pics along the way? or have any references that would help me out i'm planning on doing a bit of a wire tuck so (nothing too anal, just to hide the majority/bulk of the lot.) so i will need to extend the cables anyways. But somehow (not sure yet exactly how) i would like to utilise the original quick release connectors incase the engine needs to be pulled in and out -
how difficult is it making a custom loom for vr6 - stand alone
lowvr posted a topic in Engine Tuning
possibly going down the stand alone route (probably omex 710) how bad is it really making one of these loom - car will be mk3 vr6, ob2 spec with short runner + turbo i appreciate that it is a bit specific but just wanted general info from people that have attmped this. Any clues/diagram/pictures to help would be good -
anyone on the forum running a garrett gt32?
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piston ring compressor tool specific for vr6 pm me your number dude as i am also in leicester
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whats the gear linkage bush - sorry if thats an obvious q
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from what i understand even a genuine atp has the same problem. What equipment did you use to bore this out? - home diy job or given to an engineer?
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I can't help but agree the the design is a hard knock off of the tial, but i don't see anything wrong with hat as the tial is very good: but it does look like the construction is just as good with minor improvements...check this link out http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2679371
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clean your isv with carb cleaner
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matty and maiden; have you had any boost spiking issues running the 38mm?
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Time to pick up my wastegate very very soon. I'm inclined to buy this precision as it is very similar in design to the renowned tial 44mm but utilises a bigger 46mm valve, yet retaining the 44m gate I also like the fast it comes already with a spring tuning kit... http://www.aptuning.net/Precision_46mm_Wastegate_p/pre%2046mm%20wastegate.htm anyways...what are you guys running?
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thats a serious car dude loving the 0-60 time too 4wd off launch is amazing. & its the best colour - r32 has to be in that colour!
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what wrong with the black ones?
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I am going to start work on the 2nd engine for the turbo set up ver very soon now Although not planning on building a forged bottom end i will be using arp hardware MAIN QUESTIONS was ...with the head coming off (as this engine having done about 108k) i thought it could do with a minor refresh So just wanted to know what are simple cost effective things to do to the head to make it more efficient? As a minimum i will change the valve guides and seals...but i am also considering sodium filled valves - are the sodium valves going to be worthwhile? - and is there anything else that's worth addin