s3 Rich

done that, it came back with crank sensor & ecu faults, we put the ecu down to the fact the imobiliser is switched off. replaced the crank sensor. tried this this morning - removed the coil pack from the block & ran uptp temperature, didn't mis-fire until well over 90 degrees oil & fan had kicked in a couple of times. looks like it could be the coil pack - bummer. another £140 down the drain.

ok, replaced the lambda sensor, no change. replaced the crank sensor, no change. replaced the coolant temprature sensor, plus the housing as it was cracked, no change. the only thing left is the coil pack, but i cant understand why it would only start to mis-fire when hitting 80 degrees?????? surely the coil pack would be not working from cold if it is faulty?? anyone want a vr6?

ok, cleaned everything on the air intake side now & checked all pipes for spilits / air leaks etc. the problem is now getting worse, the engine now seems to miss nearly all of the time but not when first cold???? could this be the lambda sensor, & where is it, cant see it under the bonnet - is it accessable from below?

i have almost pulled mine out too, and now suffer from excess oil in the air intake, does anyone think a fine mesh would be better? (or as stan & ollie would say - "thats another fine mesh you got us in" he he) something like what is used in each side of the AFM, or not in my case :-)

just seems wierd that it happened right after running out of juice. tell you what, i have been getting a bit of oil from the breather pipe seeping into the inlet bendy pipe, i seems to be leaking out just where that coil of wire is stuffed in, do you tink this could have blocked the ISV in some way? will have a look tomorrow, cheers for advice, Richard.

have injector cleaner in there now. done about 60 miles with it in, no difference. where abouts is the idle control valve situated? behind the throttle body?

yes, did that & it made no difference. loads of crud in the old one but i suppose 16 years later it will have.

hello all, ran very low on juice last friday, just spluttered into a garage! was fine for the 6 mile drive home but next day once it had warmed up after a few mins it started missing briefly, mainly when at lower revs, as if some dirt has been sucked through? if i give it a bit of a revs it almost clears, if i drive hard it clears but again when idling its lumpy and missing. spoke to my local garage & they say it wont be dirt in injectors - more like an air block? anyone ever had the same & if so, is it easy to fix? coil pack less than 8k old, as are leads etc. obd1 muchos gracias!!

Hello, I have noticed that when in normal or high beam, if you pull the stick towards you both beams get brighter. Has anyone else noticed this as it makes loads of difference as the mk3 lights are crap to start with, and I am finding myself driving the country lames holding thgis on. There must be a reason for this - lamp life or something? Normaly both beams are from one lamp, which when changing to high beam there would be a cross over period when both filaments are on, but with the VR6 they are separate lamps, & both are on at the same time. If anyone can shed some light (excuse the pu

yeah, just on my way to pick one up, tried the struggle way with 2 pairs of grips but that doesn't work. ta.

Hello, repalced pads but cant seem to push the piston back, am i missing something silly? I know on some makes that the piston turns slightly to retract, but this does not seem to be the case?? any help appreciated as i could do with driving the car home tonight! Richard ps, lid is off reservoir, also tried with engine started in case abs unit not allowing flow.

9 months, was a pain to start with - think the car had been hardly used for last year or so. when I viewed it it looked pretty good, no rust, full service history, every receipt for everything including engine rebuild at 80k after snapped chain etc. but after a few weeks of driving getting to know the car things started going wrong like the rad failing & a bit of welding to the floor pan for the mot. sorted now tho with a new G-max suspension. still a bit slow tho?

dont know, doesnt look like it would be too difficult either as the cams are there staring you in the face when you open the bonnet, its whether any specialist tools are required? how long have you had yours

do they actually wear out then? mine only got 88k on the clock.

Hello, ever since i have had the VR it has had bad tappet rattle on start up for a second or two. what is it that is actually happening? is maybe the oil too thin & running from the top of the engine? I am using magnatec semi-synthetic 10-30 or 5-30, cant really remember, I know others use VW synta & swear by it, is it slightly thicker or am I doing something wrong? ps, only when left for 10hrs or more... Richard